Nisos Hydra
13 October 2024
Jane Paulson
We decided to take the local high speed ferry from Erminoni to the island of Hydra and having checked out the times decided on the midday ferry out and the last one back at 5.30 As we were at anchor, we took Dinky the dinghy ashore, tied her up and a five minute walk took us to the pick up point. The ferry ran precisely on time and left at 12.00 on the dot. €10 per person, each way, it went very fast and 35 minutes later we were tying up in the very overcrowded port.
The port and town of Hydra is not very big but it is built on a very steep slope and Andreas had reckoned 5 hours would be long enough. Neither of us are up for climbing steep hills anymore ! The plan was to wonder around the port and town, have lunch ( which we knew would be expensive) and then return home.
Cars, scooters, motorcycles, bicycles or e- bikes are not permitted anywhere on the island. When Andreas was last here 50 years ago everything and everyone was transported by Mules. He was bitterly disappointed to see that today there are very few Mules and most things are now moved around by hydraulic trolleys. A sign of the times I guess. The few Mules that we did see would wait for holidaymakers to arrive at the port by ferry and take their luggage to their accommodation. Dragging suitcases up steep narrow stone streets in the heat is best left to the Mules who take it all in their stride.
Years ago the rich and famous would holiday here, now it really is “tourist ville” and we both agreed it has been totally spoilt. The port is absolutely rammed with leisure craft, water taxis, ferries and visiting yachts. There is not enough space for the large number of visiting yachts so they tie off each other. Not side by side (known as rafting off which we have done numerous times) but bow to stern. We have never seen anything like it anywhere and the only reason it can been done here is because the port is so exceptionally well sheltered and the water calm. It is something we would never consider doing. It only needs a skipper with poor boat handling skills – and we've seen many – and serious damage could be done. It was here, on 21st June of this year that serious damage was done, by a mega yacht, whose skipper and crew thought it a good idea to let off fireworks from the boat. The result was the destruction of the only pine forest on the island. Dreadful . Thirteen crew were arrested.
All the way around the port are tavernas squeezed up together with no space in between as well as jewellery, clothing shops, art galleries and the usual touristy paraphernalia. It was very busy.
Leonard Cohen singer, song writer and rock folk musician ( whose music I personally refer to as “ music to slash your wrists to") bought a place here in 1960, lived here for 7 years and then left. The result since is that the locals are still trading off that.
We walked around the port and then decided to take the coastal path in the hopes of finding somewhere quiet to have lunch. A complete contrast to the crowded port. The coastline really is very pretty, the water as clear as gin and cafes and bars are nestled amongst the rocks with swim ladders so you can “Swim, Eat and Drink". They too were very busy.
We continued walking West until we found the place that we like to eat in. A little fishing village called Kamini with a very small harbour for local boats. The taverna was both traditional and quiet and our table looked out over the harbour. There was a sign saying it was closing at 4.30 and we later realised for a private party but we had plenty of time. So maybe not so quiet later on !!
The owner told us he had freshly caught Barbunia - our favourite fish - so we ordered half a kilo, fries, a Greek salad and a basket of fresh bread to soak up the olive oil and juices. White wine and a beer completed a culinary feast followed by complimentary freshly picked local grapes .We wandered back to the port, had a coffee and promptly left at 5.30. Perfect.
So that was our visit to Nisos Hydra. Glad we did it. Glad we took the ferry, but as mentioned in my previous post, it is one of the places that we won't be going back to. Andreas did however take some fabulous pictures.
Thought for this post : there are two sides to Hydra. Go West and South and it is stunning, but Hydra port is quite simply ruined. Not for us.