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Peloponnese - Vivari

30 October 2024
Jane Paulson
The countdown begins. We have just a few weeks to go before lift out and we return home. So we have decided to go North. Having done Hydra by ferry from Erminoni we left the anchorage and revisited Nisos Dhokos for 3 nights, this time anchoring in the big bay which was very nice. From there up to Porto Khelli for 2 nights and then on to Kilada where we anchored in what we now call The Chapel Bay. A lot of ‘retracing our tracks' – the result being that we are now very familiar with all these places.

Now we were heading North to ‘ unexplored territory ‘ and despite very fickle wind (one minute it was there, the next it was gone!) we stuck with it and managed to sail the 13 miles to Vivari. We arrived on 19th October and 7 days later and we were still there. This is one of the few places that I talk about and try to explain just what it is that makes it so special that we do not want to leave. I still find it hard to articulate it !

Vivari is a natural harbour with a very small entrance that is almost impossible to see from the sea but once you find it, it leads you into a very large and very sheltered bay. The Venetians were here as evidenced by the remains of what was a significant fort right at the entrance. Vivari is just 7 miles from the historic city of Naflio which was once the ancient capital of Greece.

It has its share of tourism but as yet has not been ruined. A very long beach, popular with motor homers and naturists on the right hand side as you come in and at the head of the bay there are many apartments to rent and a couple of hotels, small beaches with a few umbrellas and Tamerisk and huge Eucalyptus trees offering lots of shade. The tavernas that line the beach enable you to eat and dabble your feet in the crystal clear water at the same time !!!!.

We are anchored close enough to the beach to row ashore instead of using the outboard - which makes a pleasant change. The shelter here is so good the boat barely moves and we have had amazingly good sleep on the back of that. The water is very clear and currently at 30 degC. The air temperature is 26 degC. So getting out after a lovely swim can feel quite chilly 😳(I don't believe I just said that). We have done lots of long swims which have been so nice we didn't want to get out.

We had an unexpected visitor. A kingfisher spent a few moments sat on the rail close to where I was sitting in the cockpit. I have only ever seen them fleetingly and that is usually just a very fast flash of blue. He stayed long enough for me to get a good look and I hadn't realised just how exquisite their colours are.

There is just one small supermarket that covers most of what you need, no touristy shops and a limited number of eateries. There is a peace here, admittedly it is almost the end of the season so not that many people around. It could of course be totally different in August but somehow I doubt it.

Thought for today: Live, Laugh, Love. (If that doesn't work, Load, Aim, Fire).


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Vessel Name: Stiletto
Vessel Make/Model: Bavaria 33 Cruiser
Hailing Port: Gosport, UK
Crew: Andreas Giles & Jane Paulson
About:
We have been sailing together for 18 years and have owned Stiletto for 16 of them. We have exhausted the Solent and the UK South Coast and all the other usual passages: West Country, France, Channel Islands etc. that are available from our home port of Gosport. [...]