Sirius Sailin'

Monday This is our first posting from a remote anchorage via the Iridium satellite phone. On Saturday morning a light steady rain was falling=3B it was very gray and wet. It was not raining hard=2C but it was the kind of rain that goes through even the most expensive Gortex jacket. Only the cheap rubber rainwear seems to keep it out=2C but the moisture condenses on the inside and you get as wet as if you weren't wearing a protective outfit at all. We were at Shearwater=2C "The Gateway to the Great Bear Rainforest=2C" after all! As we motored away from the cedar float at the marina=2C a line was forming at the nearby fuel dock and we were number three. We drifted around a little until we were able to make our way to the float. Thankfully=2C a seaplane didn't taxi in while we were there as we waited in the spot reserved for it. Conscious of limited fuel availability in the areas we plan to visit=2C we topped off our diesel tank and one of our little gas cans for the dinghy motor. Until this point=2C we had been determined to quickly sail north to the top of Banks Island and then west to the Queen Charlotte Islands=2C so we hadn't been using a lot of gas for dinghy excursions and extended explorations. Mind you=2C we only have two 1 gallon cans. Now=2C with leisurely cruising the plan=2C the dinghy will be used a lot more for exploring the nooks and crannies of the coves in which Storm Petrel anchors. We'll also be running about in the dinghy to set and retrieve the crab and shrimp traps (hopefully=2C full with the bounty of the area). We tried to stop at Bella Bella for a visit to the grocery store=2C but the public dock was crowded and there were two other boats waiting to get in ahead of us. We decided we had enough fresh food and a good supply of canned food=2C so maybe we'll stop at Bella Bella later on in our adventure. We continued out across Seaforth Channel and into Troup Passage to Discovery Cove=2C a beautiful anchorage tucked into the northwest side of Cunningham Island. The scenery was breathtaking=2C even though we could only see about 200 feet up the surrounding hills in the dense clouds and rain. We dropped our anchor behind the little island in the southwest corner of the cove after noticing a couple of other boats already anchored in the more accessible spots. Once we had the anchor set and Storm Petrel was secured=2C we realized that we had our side of Discovery Cove to ourselves and could not see the other boats. Sunday morning came with light showers=2C a little fog=2C and the low ceiling of the day before. We bundled up in our rainsuits and loaded up the dinghy with the crab and shrimp traps=2C our safety gear=2C the dogs=2C and ourselves. After a refreshing stop (for our four-legged crewmembers) at a small=2C grass covered islet (now known as "Relief Rock")=2C we continued on to drop off the crab trap and shrimp trap. Crabs inhabit the shallower areas around the edges of the waterways=2C but shrimp live around 300 feet down. We took our shrimp trap out to the middle of Troup Passage and left it with its little yellow buoy bobbing above it. On the way back=2C we stopped at another small islet=2C this one with a very small grove of about four or five fir and cedar trees. The trees are amazing as they can anchor themselves to the rocks in very little dirt=2C sending their roots into the crevices to hang on. After they get established=2C their leaves or needles fall into the cracks along with dust and dirt. Then with a little rain=2C moss begins to grow and pretty soon there is some actual soil. Ferns and other shrubs (including red and blue huckleberries) take hold and a forest is born. This all happened on a pile of rocks no larger than 20X15 feet=2C that at its summit is only 4 feet above sea level=2C and is definitely over swept by winter storm waves. Among the trees=2C the moss is somewhat protected by fallen limbs and rock ledges. The velvety green moss grows to significant depths and makes a bed softer than a down mattress. What a perfect home for the elusive and seldom seen northwestern sea gnome! By late Sunday afternoon the sky began to lighten and the sun actually came out! We quickly opened all the ports and hatches=2C hung up all our towels=2C rainwear=2C jackets=2C and hats to take advantage of the drier air. Jeff took out a steak from our little freezer and barbequed it along with a baked potato. He added the last of our fresh string beans=2C sautéed with a little onion=2C garlic=2C and a dash of white wine to the delicious meal. We enjoyed a romantic dinner on the bow as the sun began to sink behind the western shore of the cove. The light breeze kept all the bugs at bay and we had a very relaxing and restoring evening. While we ate=2C we watched a seal and her pup loll in the kelp laden shallows of some rocks as the tide receded=2C not far from our anchorage. Two eagles twittered (the old-fashioned usage) from the top of an old snag on the opposite shore. We've been hoping to catch a glimpse of a wolf or bear=2C but none have appeared through the thick trees and foliage along the shore at this anchorage yet. Something did catch Jake's attention on shore as we were finishing dinner. He barked furiously for a moment or two=2C inviting Casey and Kaela to join him. All three dogs gave their best vocal alerts and then relaxed again on deck. It's fun to imagine that a wild creature might have given us a moment's notice as it foraged near the water's edge. On Monday morning=2C the sun quickly broke through a thin layer of stratus that had filled the cove through the night. We took the dinghy out to again visit the tiny=2C grass covered Relief Rock on our way to inspect the crab and shrimp traps. The shrimp trap is about a mile and a quarter out from our anchorage=2C so it takes a while for the two horsepower Honda to push our filled- to-capacity inflatable dinghy out there. Fortunately=2C the winds were very light and the water surface was only slightly rippled. We weren't drenched from spray by the time we got to the yellow buoy marking our trap. As Jeff grabbed the buoy and its line=2C Kaela got so excited she fell off the dinghy in her attempt to get in a better position to watch. She was quickly convinced to swim back to the dinghy rather than the distant shore and Fraser unceremoniously hauled her into the boat by the back of her collar. It takes some time to pull in 300 feet of 3/16th nylon line and roll it onto a spool=2C but the task is made much easier with two people (it would be even faster if there weren't three dogs helping). The technique arrived at is that Fraser rolls the line back onto the spool while Jeff pulls in the trap. After pulling and winding for a seemingly much longer time than was actually required=2C the nylon mesh shrimp trap appeared at the surface and was brought aboard. We were all pleased to see it held a bunch of translucent pink=2C spot shrimp! We put the shrimp in a bucket of seawater and returned the trap to the bottom for another attempt and then headed back through the channel leading to the cove where our crab trap was placed. We finally located the crab trap and pulled it up with our hopes high. Unfortunately=2C the trap was bare with just the little mesh bait holder=2C still full of bait. At least we didn't catch one of the bait stealing sun stars. We returned to Storm Petrel for lunch a lunch of ham and cheese sandwiches with freshly baked bread! Jeff's sister=2C Lisa=2C gave us a marvelous nylon hammock in its own stuff sack some time ago in anticipation of such a perfect anchorage. We hung the green and blue accented hammock between the mast and the headstay=2C held up by the whisker pole ring and a spare halyard. It is wonderfully comfortable=2C so much so that the dogs climbed in too. The hard part is getting out of the thing without rolling over the gunnels and going swimming! Tonight we will be having fresh shrimp with linguine for dinner. It is a gorgeous=2C warm evening. The eagles are calling to one another across the cove and there is enough of a breeze to keep the horse flies at bay. Although it is tempting to stay in this lovely cove for a bit longer=2C we're planning on heading out tomorrow to Seaforth Channel and around Dearth Island to try our hand at some serious salmon fishing. Raven Cove on Chatfield Island and Wigham Cove on Yeo Island look inviting as possible anchorages. Later this week=2C we plan to travel further north to the First Nation community of Klemtu. The guidebooks onboard tell us that good water to fill Storm Petrel's tanks and a band store for groceries can be found in this settlement located along Finlayson Channel. We look forward to exploring some of the hidden coves along the way.