summertime goes south

15th September

"Welcome to the working week
I know it don't thrill you,
I hope it don't kill you"

'Welcome to the Working Week' Elvis Costello

Macon to Trevoux

Our original intention was to stop at Villefranche-sur-Saone, billed as the capital of Beaujolais. However we found the riverside very industrial and unappealing so we decided to press on. Trevoux was only another 12 km and seemed to offer a more attractive option. Unfortunately Monday is the new Sunday in Trevoux and everything was closed. We looked in vain for a restaurant to have dinner or a shop for provisions, before raiding the meagre rations we had on the boat.

Trevoux was the capital of the small principality of Dombes and had its own Parliament until absorbed into the Kingdom of France in 1762. The town is tiny but retains a wealth of interesting mediaeval buildings and street scenes that must have changed little over the years. It was quite a climb up to the old castle occupying a position above the town with commanding views of the river and Saone valley beyond. The unusual octagonal keep can still be climbed via a spiral staircase and the spectacular views meant any hostile approach would be easily spotted at a considerable distance. Trevoux is also famous for its early printing industry and today has an active artistic community of artists and sculptors who welcome visitors to their workshops.

Trevoux is very pretty town, well worth visiting, if you avoid Mondays.


16th September

"I have dined in palaces,
Drunk wine with Kings and Queens".

'Roll 'Um Easy' Little Feat

Trevoux to Albigny-sur-Saone

It was only 10nm to our last stop on the River Saone, Albigny-sur-Saone. We stopped at a small marina just above the last lock on the river, where the Capitaine was very friendly and helpful. Unlike most of the places we had stopped, which were run by the local municipality, here the Capitaine seemed to be the proprietor. The whole marina had a somewhat makeshift feel, the showers for instance were in an old container and although clean were definitely homemade.

We were someway from the town, so the onsite bar/restaurant was welcome. There seemed to be a regular clientele of local boat-owners, propping up the bar with the proprietors for most of the day and we wondered if the French had a term for 'barflies'. The menu was limited and the food acceptable but not cheap. This was definitely a one night only stop, quite acceptable if unmemorable.

Tomorrow we will pass through our last Saone lock before joining the Rhone at Lyons. We will have travelled 127nm on the Saone and passed through 8 locks since 7th September, rapid progress compared to the canals. From the confluence with the Saone, the Rhone stretches some 310kms to the Med. with 12 locks but with the river current to help us, our progress could be even quicker. We are told we can reach the Med. in 4 days but we won't attempt that pace.

17th September

"I've been down so goddamn long,
It looks like up to me"

'Been Down So Long' The Doors

Albigny to Les Roches de Condrieu

We planned to leave Albigny early as it was a trip of some 34nm. Unfortunately our departure was delayed by a peniche that went through the lock ahead of us. The journey took us through the centre of Lyon, which was quite spectacular with some very impressive buildings both along the river and on the heights above. Close to the confluence with the Rhone were some modern buildings, bright green and orange cubes with large round openings onto glazed offices or viewing galleries. On each balcony of one building that seemed to be a block of flats, large red frogs were climbing over the railings, perhaps in the process of escaping. The last building, which we subsequently discovered would be the Museum des Confluences opening in 2014, was clad in silver-grey and had a futuristic shape that resembled a predatory monster out of War of the Worlds. These buildings were part of the redevelopment of a run-down part of the waterfront and were certainly eye-catching when seen from the river and in stark contrast to the more traditional architecture elsewhere along the river.

The Rhone is a huge river subject to dangerous currents, particularly in Spring when the melt water from the Alps swells the volume of water. Currently its mood is tranquil although the locks used to control the flow and feed the hydro-electric stations are enormous. The first one we encountered just south of Lyon took us down 11.75 metres and seemed to go on forever. The water flow is gentle and once we were secured gave us no problems but the depth on the lock does make Summertime seem very small and vulnerable.

It took us 8 hours to cover the 34nm to Les Roches, we were not helped by delays at the locks. The town is small but we have a lovely view of the vineyards on the slopes of the hills on the bank opposite. The marina is secure so we will leave Summertime here whilst we visit Lyon before travelling back to London.


19th to 23rd September

"...and it's all done in the best possible taste" Cupid Stunt

'The Kenny Everett Show'

Lyon

We booked into a hotel close to the main railway station in Lyon, for 4 nights as we had an early start on the journey to Paris to catch the Eurostar to London.

Lyon is a lively and attractive city situated at the confluence of the Saone and Rhone rivers. As we travelled through the City on the Saone, we could not help but notice a large white marble building dominating the heights above the right bank. We later identified this as the Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourviere, which is adjacent to the remains of two Gallo-Roman ampitheatres and other Roman ruins, also visible from the river.

We felt we had to visit the basilica as it was so prominent. A funicular railway takes you up from 'Vieux Lyon' to the heights on which the basilica stands, giving a wonderful panoramic view of the city.

The basilica was built in the late 19th century funded by private donations. The architectural style is heavily influenced by Romanasque/Byzantine architecture and decoration and seen from the river the brilliant white marble and four towers reminded us of a wedding cake. This is reinforced when up close, the exterior is a confection of turrets, arches and columns with almost every surface carrying some decoration. The crypt is dedicated to 'Our Lady' and contains a collection of images and statues, including an altar with 'Our Lady" as the centrepiece. The main body of the basilica is enormous and completely overwhelms the senses, every surface is decorated with acres of mosaic and gold leaf. To the uncommitted like me the whole edifice is an example of 19th century kitsch at its worst. However, I can imagine the effect of the Mass on the congregation as the music and incense combine with priestly intonation to enhance the impact of the interior, in the Church's version of 'shock and awe'.

In complete contrast 'Vieux Lyon', situated at the foot of the heights is a more modest collection of narrow streets, squares and traditional buildings. We had a pleasant lunch at the foot of the funicular railway, enjoying the sunshine and the bustle of a vibrant part of Lyon. Although a World Heritage Site, the area retains its charm and tourism seems not to have destroyed its identity as a community.

Lyon is definitely worth more than the 3 days we were able to spare, as we missed out on the museums and other sites. Sunday was a wasted day as we found the museums closed. Disappointed we found a brasserie for lunch and made the mistake of ordering andouille, under the erroneous belief it was chicken. It turned out to be a French delicacy, in the form of a sausage made from the less appetising parts of the pig. Needless to say our refusal to eat it was not fully understood by the brasserie's management and occasioned some mirth. How we came to think it was chicken will remain a mystery.