summertime goes south

18th May: Marseille to Toulon
The weather improved and the Mistral relented so we were glad to leave Marseille at last. Before leaving we spotted the Police Segway Squad in action as shown in the photo attached.
We slipped our lines at 08.30 and originally planned to make for Bandol. We had a 5 knot following wind as we made our way past the Frioul islands, which built during the day and reached 20 knots by the late morning. We were able to make over 7 knots as the following sea enabled us to surf the waves. We were enjoying the ride so we decided to press on to Toulon, a trip of 40 miles. We arrived at 4.30 and moored in the old port. Toulon is a major base for the French Navy and was heavily bombed in the war. This has left a rather industrial landscape with rather nondescript post-war buildings dominating the waterfront.
We did enjoy the remains of the old town just back from the waterfront and we liked the city more as we got to know it. The Toulon Rugby Club stadium is right in the city centre and match days are dominated by the noisy fans banging drums and blowing whistles in good-natured celebration. Jonny Wilkinson is regarded as a god here both for being a true gentleman and for inspiring Toulon to two European Championships.

25th May: Toulon to Port du Pin Roland
Toulon offers good shelter from the Mistral and we had 2 days of 40 knot winds as we were once again dogged by this pesky wind. That's 4 Mistral's we have so far experienced.
During the trip from Marseille we took on a lot of water and I have had to bail out twice a day, very worrying. I spent 3 days taking up floorboards and looking everywhere for the source. By a process of elimination I traced it to the propeller shaft or the prop itself. To investigate further Summertime had to be lifted out of the water and the prop shaft and stern tube removed. I found a yard a couple of miles away across from Toulon at Port du Pin Roland. We set off and had the boat lifted out on 25th May. It took 8 days to remove the prop shaft and trace the leak to the through hull fitting where the shaft emerges from the hull. This could have failed catastrophically at any time risking a sinking, so the 8 days spent on repairs were well worth it.
We checked into a nearby hotel in Sablettes, a small and pleasant seaside resort where we whiled away the time as the yard sorted the problem out. They were very good and on reflection did the repairs as quickly as possible bearing in mind it was a busy time of the year.
One resident of Sablettes had an interesting take on garden statuary, I felt compelled to take the accompanying snap although there were other equally striking objects in his/her garden.

2nd June: Port du Pin Roland to Isle de Porquerolles
Summertime was put back in the water and after their engineers checked her out, we were free to leave at 4 pm. We made the short trip to the Isle de Porquerolles and dropped anchor in a quiet bay off the Plage d'Argent at 7.30. Porquerolles is part of the Parc National de Port-Cros, very quiet and beautiful. We spent an idyllic night at anchor and I woke up at about 6 am to a beautiful still golden dawn. The sea was like glass, turned gold by the rising sun. A couple of small traditional fishing boats were the only sign of life as they chugged across the bay, leaving a wake that gently sparkled in the morning light.
I had breakfast then went back to sleep in the cockpit, waking with Linda about 9.00 for a second breakfast. We set off for Sainte Raphael, leaving behind the stress and worry of getting the repairs done.
3rd June: Porquerolles to Ste. Raphael
Another hot day with little wind. We decided to go straight to Ste. Raphael, past Cap de St Tropez to what is really just a large marina. It was a long day but much better to be at sea than sweltering onshore. The marina was pretty soulless but we were able to take on fuel and water. We had the worst meal of the trip so far. We both chose sole in a white sauce which when it arrived was obviously boil-in-a-bag and completely tasteless. Needless to say we left most of it and refused dessert or coffee, preferring to make our own on board. We were surprised that French cuisine would fall so low!

4th June: Ste Raphael to Anse de Garoupe (Antibes)
After refuelling we set off to Antibes. As we rounded the Cap d'Antibes we encountered a yacht race almost becalmed. The racing fleet consisted of some 50 or so yachts, some fine examples of traditional gaff-rigged racing yachts, all under full sail with crews sitting on the rails waiting for wind. They were a magnificent sight as we picked our way carefully through the fleet as they tried to complete the course.
We anchored in the Anse de Garonne, a bay just before Antibes itself. As evening approached the day boats went home and we shared the bay with only one other yacht. Another idyllic night spent at anchor.

5th June: Anse de Garonne to Nice
We managed to reserve a place for two nights in the Vieux Port at Nice and set off at 11.00 am after a leisurely breakfast. We crossed the Baie d'Anges and arrived in Nice in the early afternoon. Nice is a lovely city and there are some impressively expensive yachts in the harbour, making Summertime look very insignificant.
We enjoyed the lively and bustling old town which comes alive in the cool of the evening with a customary stroll along the Promenade des Anglais and the many bars and restaurants in the narrow streets and squares of old Nice full of customers.
We enjoyed our two days in Nice despite the heat during the day and could have stayed longer but the owner of our berth was returning so we had to leave.

7th June: Nice to Cap Martin
A lovely sail with 10-15 knots of wind which took us past Monaco, which from seaward seems to consist of nothing but modern high rise apartments, crammed together. We anchored in a bay on the east side of Cap Martin only a couple of miles short of Menton. Again by late afternoon the day-trippers had gone and we spent a calm night alone in the bay. As usual the sea breeze died at dusk leaving a calm sea and Summertime to drift aimlessly around her anchor whilst we slept.

8th June: Cap Martin to Menton
A very short hop to Menton our last stop before we cross the border to Italy. We are only 700 metres short of the border so we will begin a new adventure after 2 days in Menton. The locals speak Italian more than French here so we could almost be in Italy already. Menton is a pleasant picturesque town rising up into the hills behind. It is the home of the former penfriend of Peter, Linda's brother, although that was quite a time ago.
Tomorrow Italy.