summertime goes south

28th June: Cala dei Medici to Portoferriao, Isola d'Elba
This is a 38 mile passage so we made an early start, slipping lines at 7.45am. It was a beautiful sunny, still morning with a flat sea. Later a following breeze varying between 5 and 7 knots sprang up so we unfurled the genoa and gained about 0.3 of a knot.
We arrived at Portoferriao around 3pm and it was our intention to anchor in the outer harbour. The pilot book said berths in the harbour itself were at a premium, so we planned a night at anchor. When we saw the wash from the frequent ferry traffic, we decided to avoid rolling around and try our luck with a berth. Surprisingly the harbour was almost empty with many more visitor berths than we were led to believe, so securing one was no problem. Later in the day the harbour did fill up but there was still some room left.
The harbour was built by the Medicis and the defensive citadel on the heights above the harbour still stands. The villa built to accommodate Napoleon in his brief exile is now open to tourists but as we will only be here one night we will have to pass. The old town above the harbour is full of narrow winding streets and steps as the town is built on a rocky outcrop topped by the citadel. It retains most of its charm and 'old Italy' feel, as modern development is very limited.
Since arriving in Italy we have been struck by the unexpected eccentricities of life here and Portoferraio is no exception. The port has no showers but deep in the basement of the town hall, in a square behind the harbour front, you can get a shower for Euro2.7 until 11.30 at night. A charming lady takes your money and washes out the shower after you have used it. It is all a little basic but clean and welcoming and the basement is cool! It is a shame we can only stay one night, a return visit is definitely a priority.
On a more prosaic note: we have noticed the Italian cavalier attitude to sun burn, nobody, not even the children wear hats, even in the blazing midday sun and small babies are pushed around in the full glare with none of the sunshades or covers that would be required in England. Everybody must know we are English as we are the only ones in hats.