We're back at anchor in Atuona--our least favorite anchorage in the whole wide world--to pick up our new chain master link that is winging its way from SF/Tahiti to Hiva Oa; parts about $10, shipping priceless and expensive.

We loaded John and Robin for an overnight in Hanamenu Bay on Wednesday and sailed back here today. While we were motoring we were joined by a pod of porpoises who surfed the bow and did amazing leaps; I think about 10' vertical was the record. Alas we bid good bye to our crew, John and AJ, as they fly out to Tahiti today. Having additional crew was a great decision. John and AJ were the perfect people to bring; what a delight. Neither are very experienced sailors but they make up for it many times over; we couldn't have picked better people to spend a month on the boat with. It is very quiet on the boat now, and we miss them already.

The good news is that our best friend Otto is back, tan, rested, and ready. The local gas station guy straightened the bracket to the tune of 300 CFPfrancs (about $4) and we recommissioned the system and it's good to go. When the master link is replaced we'll be 100% again.

A lovely bon voyage dinner last night at the Hotel Hanakee Pearl with AJ, John and Robin; our first meal on land since Mexico. Our current plan is to head for Fatu Hiva and then work our way back North to Ua Huku, Nuka Hiva and Ua Pou by early May. Most of the US cruisers here are limited to a 90 day visa for all of French Polynesia which keeps them on a faster pace. We were able to get six month visas before we left and will spend the summer working our way towards Tahiti where we plan to leave the boat for the winter, picking it up in spring 2008. (Our spring, Tahiti's autumn.)

The Aranui III came into the harbor yesterday afternoon. It is the modern version of the sailing schooners that supplied the islands and took away copra in the late 1800's and early 1900's. The ship may be much larger and engine driven, but the event is probably much the same. The road to the port was busy with local vehicles and the dock area crammed with fork lifts moving goods around to and from the ship. A container (half the size of US big ship containers) would be opened, and the names on the boxes called out. Large tins of "biscuit" (crackers), a box holding a baby stroller, bins of onions, blue anodized metal roofing material, construction lumber-all piled out willy nilly and was loaded onto the family truck.

I've seen only one "car" on this island. The vehicle of choice is a dual cab pickup with a lengthened bed and a metal frame fore and aft (good handholds). If it's upscale it has two benches along the sides. So you can carry cargo or your entire extended family. And often a yachtie walking between the harbor and the town (about 2 miles). The locals will often stop unasked, and rarely refuse an outstretched thumb if they have room. The protocol is to jump in the back-not in the cab, even if empty-and thump on the rear window when you reach your destination.