We motored the two miles from Hapatoni up to the bay off Vaitahu, the largest town on the island of Tahuata. It was still election day, and voting was still going on as we went ashore on Saturday afternoon. It was a little gusty in the harbor but we thought it would die down at night. Boy were we mistaken. It blew all night, generally 15 knots, but many gusts to 20 and occasionally to 25 knots. That may not sound like a lot of wind, but when you're lying in your bunk feeling the boat heel as the puffs hit, feeling the tug on the anchor and rode; worried about chafe, worried about holding-it's a long night without much sleep. But morning came and the wind died down, so we stayed.

Sunday afternoon the Taporo VI (one of two supply ships that regularly call at the Marquesas) pulled into the harbor, lifted her lighter (a flat platform with two outboards) into the water and proceeded to unload goods. Seemed like half the village was at the small wharf to receive goods and help load the outgoing copra, still bagged in burlap. The ship has a crane to lift cargo to the lighter-on the shore side a small backhoe has two chains on its bucket, and lifts stuff off and on the lighter. The ship pulled out at sunset, and we spent a much quieter night, thank goodness.

Monday morning we went in to town early to get to the post office. I've been carrying a postcard around for better that a week trying to find an open post office. This time luck was with us. Asked at the local store for a bone carver, and got a lift up the hill to the home of Teiki Barsinas. He showed me his pride and joy, a magnificent tiki carved from a sperm whale tooth, and photos of much of his work. He had a few finished pieces and many more he was working on. His deadline was the next visit of the Aranui III, the other ship, which also carries passengers. Later walked by the school and took some photos of the kids at play, and their teacher. Steve and I had decided to bring enough photo paper and cartridges so we could print souvenirs; I went back to the school with a few prints. I found them in class, and intended just to leave the photos, but no. I was invited in and put in a chair at the front of the class. We looked at the photos, the kids giggled, and then they sang two songs, one in French and one in Marquesan. Then they did two dances for me. One of the little boys already has the rapid knock-knee movement down pat already. Then they wanted to go get some pamplemousse for us, but I said we had enough thank you. I felt like Queen Elizabeth!