Happy Birthday Steve!
27 May 2007 | Makemo
Steve & Susan
This is a pretty good place to celebrate one's 65th. We tore ourselves away from the anchorage at the east end of the island to come back to the village and its bakery. No birthday cake, but wonderful warm baguettes and pain de mie (sandwich bread). Back to the east end for a brief reprise. Susan found a wonderful coral patch halfway between the boat and the beach with the most spectacular oysters. Their margins were iridescent purples, blues and turquoise. The coral was colorful as well, and the fish teeming. As I was relaxing, just floating and enjoying the spectacle I felt a little nibble on my knee. I shook it off, but it kept recurring, so I doubled up and looked. My first thought of course was A BABY SHARK. But I realized it was a fish, about 18" long, pale blue with a black and white stripe down its side and a funny looking shield sort of appendage on its head. Nothing deterred it from "nibbling" on me, including grabbing it by the tail and shaking it, so I gave up my coral patch and dinghied back to the boat and the reef fish book. Thanks to John Gillespie we have a comprehensive guide to reef fishes in the tropical Pacific. After some perusal, and the description: swim with or attached to sharks, rays and turtles; may attempt to attach to divers--I had it. A sharksucker, relative of the remora. So it wasn't nibbling; it was trying to latch on. So I found another coral patch, nearly as nice as the first. We anchored at the village again Sunday afternoon, and listened to the music and announcements from the shoreside petanque tournament. Monday morning after placing the bread order we did a drift snorkel through the Arikitimora Pass. If one wants to avoid appearing in the Darwin book the first thing to do is make sure the current is running in, not out. Then you run the dinghy out a ways next to the shore or a coral shelf, cut the motor, over the side and drift in with the dinghy. We saw lovely coral, lots more fish and sharks, both blacktip and whitetip reef sharks. Thoroughly waterlogged we repaired to the boat for our fresh baguette sandwiches. The petanque tournament resumed, so we went in to supervise, and take photos. We printed them and took them in. The smiles you get with a simple photo! This was one of Steve's more brilliant ideas--to make sure we have plenty of cartridges and photo paper. Although we've seen lots of cars, TV's, and I-pods we've not seen cameras in the locals hands, so photos of themselves are still something of a novelty. The photo is of the Mayor, playing petanque, who provided a car and driver to take us to the pearl farm last week.