We left the east end yesterday. Had a nice sail downwind--once we had motored our way clear of the numerous coral heads--in 16 to 20 knots of breeze--and once again anchored off the Kia Ora Hotel bungalows. We thought about leaving today, but decided to spend one more night here, even though it was still blowing and still rolly. So we snorkeled in the morning and then rented bikes in the afternoon. The hotel concierge counseled us that "nothing was open," it being Sunday. We said we understood; it was just for exercise. So we trundled off on one speed bikes with the kid style brakes and not enough air in the tires. On the way down to the other end of the motu--a motu being an individual little island in the expanse of fringing reef that makes up an atoll--we heard music but didn't stop. On the way back it was too enticing, so we pulled in. The sign at Snack Esmerelda said Fete de la Musique, Dimanche, 1200 to 1800h. As we hesitated parking the bikes, a young man beckoned us in with many bows, and offered us some fresh coconut. So we sat down and ordered a beer. It turned out the young man was just another customer, but anxious to give the band an audience. The band was a synthesizer rhythm track and two electric guitars, plus giant speakers--all powered by various car batteries. The music was fun, and a singer joined them for Tuamotuan tunes. The other two customers were young Italians, crew on the 100 foot Swan anchored along with us off Kia Ora. They thought they had the ideal jobs. They weren't paid much, but they were sailing around the world, only occasionally subject to the demands of the two boat owners, one Italian and one Russian, who showed up every two months or so. When we gave them a boat card they exclaimed, "Oh, Suprezee!" (Italian for Surprise), their favorite boat in the anchorage (right, she must look like a dingy from a 100' Swan with a professional crew of six; we didn't buy them a beer, but a round for the band). So we ended our Tuamotuan experience on a nice note, amplified. Even riding back against the headwind didn't spoil the day for us, just helped the exercise. The dinghy is deflated, and we are ready to leave tomorrow morning for Tahiti. Wind promises to be breezy, so we should fly. Just hope the seas aren't too bouncy. It's about 210 miles, so should take us about 28 hours at our usual 7.5 knot average for passages.