Still more Niue....
13 June 2008 | Niue
Another day of exploring the hiking paths, caves and arches. Niue is a raised coral atoll, which means its volcanic origins have sunk deep
beneath the sea as the reef took over, and its entire substrate and coastline are coral limestone. There are huge caves along the coast
and inland. We've stayed out of the inland caves, but met a New Zealand couple on holiday who were having a great time spelunking. The photo is from the coast looking back up the cave we crawled through; there is a rope at the center bottom to help.
There is no "harbor" here, just a wharf with a hoist for dinghys, and small fishing and dive boats. There are about 20 moorings that have
been created and are maintained by the Niue Yacht Club. The Club is a little different, as none of the local members have boats, and it is
all run out of the local ice cream parlor. Without question it is one of the best support facilities we have found. Want a rental car, want
internet access, want a dinner reservation, no problem, just call the YC on the radio. Keith, the Commodore, and Ernie make it happen; all
this for $10NZ/day for the mooring.
We've been enjoying sitting in the lee of the island, sheltered from the rowdy east winds and seas. I gathered from some comments and e-
mails that my passage description was un-nerving. Didn't intend to scare, just to indicate that it wasn't always fun and frolic. Now if you
really want to be scared you should be listening in on the "Friendly Net," a loosely run single sideband net we take part in. One of the
boats on the net is "Bernard," so named because it is a replica of Bernard Moitessier's vessel. A single-handed vessel, Bernard left Bora Bora about 10 days ago with a broken windlass, headed for Niue and then Tonga to get it fixed or replaced. He has been pretty steadily in wind over 20 knots, and for the last three days in winds of 25 to 30 with gusts to 45 knots and 5 meter seas. Crew size is logarithmic. What is easily manageable with 4 people becomes challenging for two people and downright difficult for one. Last night the furling line on his headsail parted, so he had to crawl out to the foredeck--alone, no one watching out for him--in those big seas and get that sail down and his storm jib up. Good news is that he should appear around the point of Niue any time now. We'll be here to help him tie up and give him a hot meal.