We left Panama City, North Star, filthy from the lack of rain , dirt in the air and soot from the nearby burning cane fields for one of the islands in Las Perlas called Contadora. We had some newly installed electronics that needed calibration so just behind the line of container ships anchored and waiting to transit the canal we spent a few hours in perfectly flat seas making circles and lines and calibrating the autopilot and the compass. The sea was so flat it looked like glass. We saw many groups of birds: pelicans, frigates and seagulls just sitting in groups of maybe fifty, on the glassy surface. As we neared the group, we could see the birds were sitting on top of a school a fish being pushed to the bubbling surface. There were so many fish and so many birds. The birds were so overstuffed they weren't even eating from the pile of fish they were sitting on until we got closer and then a feeding frenzy ensued. We also saw several whales jumping out of the water and others slowly rolling out of the water to show a fluke. We were not able to id the type of whale for sure and none of them would cooperate for a photo. The area around Contadora is known as a whale watching area. Almost immediately after we finished calibrating the electronics, which we wanted flat seas and no wind, the winds picked up and we sailed the six hours to Contadora.

We anchored next to our friends, Dave and Wendy on Elysium. It was the weekend and many local fishing boats were on the moorings closer to shore. We have noticed it seems the South and Central American boaters like music and they like to share their music with their neighbors in the anchorage and singing loudly is even better. Things were quiet at a reasonable hour and it was the first night since we transited the canal that we weren't rolled out of bed by a passing tug boat. Ahhhh! The island was very quiet with a beautiful white beach and grand homes. We were told many very important people have homes here or have had homes here on the island. Christian Dior supposedly has a home on the island just behind Contadora. Off to one side of Contadora we could see one island and a nearby smaller island, the reality TV show Survivor was shot here. We only had a few days here waiting for some wind and one of the days was spent securing the dinghy, mounting a kayak and monitor windvane and preparing for the passage. We definitely could have spent more time here. Dave and Wendy took us on a great tour of the island. The air strip, which was much busier than we expected, the unfinished property that were closed due to drug running, the "mall" which was three small buildings and a thatched roof hut and the beautiful homes. We had a slightly costly but very good lunch at a spot near the airport. While in Contadora we were watching for a good weather window to the Galapagos. There had been no good windows for sailing to the Galapagos in weeks. We picked a window that did have some wind for at least the first two days and then we figured we would have to motor the remainder of the four or five days.

The passage from Contadora to Galapagos was 881 nautical miles, which is about 1015 miles if driven in your car. Although, your car would sink. One nautical mile equals 1.15 miles. The first day started well but by the late afternoon the winds were picking up and gusting. We reefed the sails and Steve had some dinner. The change in weather did not help Kim in the nausea department so Steve had a long night with the winds and the ship traffic heading to the canal by himself. He had to make contact with about ten big cargo shops that were were either passing in front or behind us. We now have AIS installed so we transmit our location to the big ships and we can also see them much better. As the morning went on the next day, the winds subsided but the waves stayed confused and the washing machine effect was in full swing. Yuck! We also broke a very important piece on our vang which holds up the boom. Gotta have this piece to get the mainsail up. We did not have any damage to the boat and thank goodness not to the solar panels but we now have a problem getting the part tour location. We had gotten very spoiled with the easy shipping to Panama. Day three and four we had the wind directly on the nose, no sailing. Day five and six we did get beam seas and winds so we were able to put up the Genoa and help stabilize the boat and increase our speed. The first two days we had a favorable current but after that it was at least one knot against us until we arrive at the island of San Cristobal, Galapagos. Here we had a favorable current for the last twenty five miles. We were told about the great sailing in the Pacific with following seas spaced at sixteen seconds. We have not seen any of that yet. The seas were starting to change toward the end of the passage and a wave pattern was starting to setup the last few days but the waves were only spaced about six seconds apart and irregular at best.

We arrived in the Galapagos after six days and three hours. We are anchored next to Cetacea with Gail and Tony on board. We have enjoyed their company off and on since meeting them in Shelter Bay. The anchorage here is very nice at this time of year. Flat and not overcrowded. Since the ARC's arrival in the Galapagos a few months ago everyone leaving from Panama City has been very worried about arriving with a clean bottom. We were told that significantly more than half of the ARC boats had to leave the anchorage shortly after arrival, head seventy miles offshore, wait for the divers to show up and pay three hundred dollars to have their bottoms cleaned. Our experience upon arrival was our agent Carmela was circling in a water taxi as we arrived and boarded as soon as we had the anchor down. She took all of our paperwork and said she would return at 3:00 with all of the various check in agencies. A few hours later she did return with 9 people. They were all introducing themselves, passing out paperwork, taking turns coming below and wanting signatures. The first two below were looking for any plants or seeds and asked to see the fresh fruit. They also were checking in the corners on the walls in the head and shower, not sure what for but maybe spider webs. The next one needed to look in some of the cabinets, the fridge and freezer and wanted to go over the separating of trash process with colored bags here. The next person below was the port captain and he wanted to know about life vests, radios, fire extinguishers and flares. He also asked Steve to pull up one floor panel. More shuffling of paper,a seven hundred and fifty dollar fee for these service and inspections and we were told a diver would be by tomorrow to check the bottom. The fee for the diver was fifty dollars per person on board. He did show up the following afternoon with a mask and fins, spent about one minute below and said everything was very clean, bueno no problema. We had our bottom cleaned by Marvin in La Playita before we left Panama City. He came with a hookah rig and spent a few hours cleaning the bottom shortly before we left to head to Contadora. He did a great job for a reasonable price. Steve and I also touched the bottom up the day before we left Contadora, just to be sure. So, $750 for all the fees and $650 for the agent, Ricardo Arenas, and we have been here three hours and have not left the boat.

We went to shore with Tony and Gail for happy hour and dinner. The water taxi here is advised because the sea lions get in your dinghy, leave sea lion residue, and refuse to get out. One dollar per person sounds like a bargain to me. We had a tour of the waterfront before dinner. The town built slides for the children right into the ocean but apparently the baby seals can be taught because they saw the children playing and have now taken over the slides. There are sea lions everywhere. On the rock wall, under the boat, beside the boat, in the slides, on the steps at the dock, sitting on benches, walking or flapping, whatever seals do, on the dock with people all around. The sneezing, barking and sometimes choking sounds can be heard at any time of day. We had dinner for five dollars per person. Tuna steak, small salad, cream of vegetable soup, rice and beans, French fries and juice. Yes, I did say five dollars. Nothing super gourmet but all good. We spent the second day with Steve working on getting the broken part here. Kim spent the day doing laundry and trying to get some of the black soot from Panama City and the caked on salt off of the boat. Getting the part here maybe be a problem. Anyone want a trip to the Galapagos with a small part in their suitcase? We have found getting things out of customs in Quito in Ecuador is a huge problem. I forgot to mention that as we approached the Galapagos on the fifth night out we were less than a hundred miles away and a tsunami warning was issued for the islands because of an earthquake in Chile. All of the boats in the anchorage we ordered out of the harbor. The warning was cancelled but from ten pm until two am all of the boats had to circle around in deeper water just in case. We asked our agent, who was a young man, but he said he only knows of this happening three times so hopefully, the evacuations are done for awhile. We have now been here for a few days. A general impression of the town is relaxed with very friendly people always greeting with a buenos dias and a smile, cheap food if you stay out of the tourist traps. We have had some good meals for as low as 3.50 and 5 up to a fantastic meal prepared special for four persons for 12 each at Hostel Bambu. You have to make arrangements for dinner ahead of time and decide on what you want but the food was fantastic and the service of the owner was great! There seems to be a nice selection of fruit and vegetables at very reasonable prices, even strawberries. There is a market on Saturday morning with a pretty good selection of fresh items. We have had our part repaired as a spare by the welder here in town, we still need the new one but will keep this one as for a possible backup. We hope to start seeing some of the island in the next few days.