13 August 2018 | North Bay Newfoundland
When we left Shelburne, it was bright, but once out of the harbor, we were back in the fog. We were in and out of fog banks all day and into the night as we worked our way east past Lunenburg and Halifax. As the dawn broke the next day, we were still ensconced in the fog and later we approached Liscomb Harbor, our destination for that day. We had seen several ships and boats on AIS and radar, but nothing with our eyes. We came into the harbor hearing but nit seeing the markers, but as we closed the land the fag lifted and we anchored in the sun. Later that evening the fog closed in again, but nothing kept us from a good night's sleep. In the morning we were at it again, and we moved over to Louse Harbor in a day hop again in the fog early but it cleared in the afternoon. This is one of the prettiest harbors we seen in Nova Scotia, and it's full of curious seals. We were entertained by several playing king of the mountain on a rock with room for one and several wanting to be there. From Louse, we moved on to Cape Breton and Louisbourg, site of Fort Louisbourg, an important French outpost in the 1700's. We spent a day wandering the town and catching up on email and then a day to see the fort. It is a very dramatic site as you pull into the harbor. It has been restored by the Canadian National Parks and is staffed by people dressed in the way it would have been in the old days. It is the largest historic restoration in North America and yet only 25% of it is completed. We even were able to have lunch there served as it would have been in the 1700's. This was the busiest seaport on the east coast of North America in its day and a very important French outpost. Its importance was related to the fishing industry and the salted cod that was produced and shipped back to Europe. It is said that there would be on occasion 50-100 ships in the harbor going and coming from Europe, the West Indies, and other New World ports. It was taken by the British twice and after the second time destroyed and left in ruins, thus ending Frances holds in the region. Now, thanks to Parks Canada, we can appreciate the grandeur of the place and what it must have been like to live there at that time. We spent an entire day there and really enjoyed it. We left the next day with a dubious fore cast, as a front was passing by. We have had to motor sail so much we were keen to have wind for sailing so we decided to go for it. We left Louisbourg in a clear sky and with southwesterlies at about 15 knots. The wind slowly built to 25-30 with rain and fog and it was cold. We were all reefed down and the wind vane was steering so we held on and the next morning found us approaching the south coast of Newfoundland. We could see the cliffs looming in the fog ahead and we were aiming for a fiord called La Hune Bay. As we approached we were welcomed by a whale and her calf, with the little one showing off by broaching several times and then they swam right by the boat. We entered the fiord and the wind pushed us up the channel but the seas calmed as we moved north. The tops of the cliffs were in fog but there were countless waterfalls cascading down the sides of the cliffs. It was quite a sight. The fog lifted a bit more as we proceeded up the 8 mile channel in the fiord affording an even better view. We anchored at the head of the fiord and basked in the grand scenery. After a nap, I had boat chores and had to replace the solenoid on the starter for the engine. After some time spent we managed to overcome that problem and had time to relax. Yesterday we moved further east to Bay de Espoir and up yet another fiord called North Bay. We are now the furthest east and north that Allegria has ever been. Our plan is to slowly work our way back west and explore some more of the fiords along the way. We have no internet here, so I'll post this via radio and get the pictures up the next time we have internet. It may be a while.