Back to Nova Scotia
23 August 2018 | Louse Harbor, Nova Scotia
Here we are back at Louse Harbor sitting out a SW gale out in the ocean. We pulled in here yesterday in a building SW breeze and got the anchor down just before the rain started and the wind started howling. It went on all night and this morning we were in thick fog. Now the fog has cleared but the wind has stayed up, but it is supposed to settle tomorrow. Here is how we got here. We had a pleasant stay at North Bay and left to go back west and explore more of the fiords. As we left the confines of the fiord, we were ensconced in the fog once again. It was thick as we motored around the headlands and into the ocean. The waterfalls we had seen when we came over here were not to be seen today. We entered steep sided Facheux Bay, the deepest of all. The sides are over 1,000 feet high and the depths are over 1,500 feet with some spots at 2,500 feet. Entering was an eerie experience under radar and in between those imposing rock walls. The fog disappeared as we moved into the fiord and we proceeded to the anchorage in clear weather. We have found each fiord to be slightly different and this one is unique for all the caves in the walls, some big enough to drive a dinghy into. After anchoring we had a visit with some local guys who were scallop fishing, but not having much luck. After a pleasant night we headed west to Hare Bay. This fiord was our favorite the last time we were here and it did not disappoint this time either. It is considered by many to be the prettiest although many consider Recontre for that honor. Imagine waterfalls tumbling down cliff faces and indescribable beauty and you have Hare Bay. The anchorage is very protected and gorgeous. The last time we found plentiful mussel beds, but found none this year. We think the water may be too fresh up in the head of the fiords because of all the rain. After Hare, we moved to Recontre Bay to compare. It is interesting and different in that it has an old deserted out port in it and also makes a right angle turn half way up its length. It also has towering granite cliffs and a spectacular waterfall at the head of the fiord. We anchored off the old out port where many of the old homes have been restored as cabins for folks from Ramea and Burgeo. There was no one around while we were there. The out ports are small fishing villages which used to be plentiful on Newfoundland's south coast. They were only accessible by boat and the Canadian government sponsored a resettlement of most of them in the 1960s so only a few remain. We were up early the next day to move over to the Ramea Islands in the fog once again. Ramea is a small fishing village in an island group just off the coast. There is a very progressive population there, with alternative energy (Wind) supplying their energy needs. They even have some windmills producing hydrogen from seawater to use in energy production with fuel cells when there is no wind. We got a spot on the town wharf for the night and had an enjoyable walk around the island and a great dinner at the one restaurant. We had a short weather window to cross the Cabot Straight and get back to Nova Scotia so we were off early the next day. A combination of motoring and sailing overnight put us off the mouth of the Great Brad 'or, the opening into the Bra d'Or Lake, the next morning. We were a little early for the tide so we had to fight an outgoing current for a while but it was not too bad. We worked our way up the channel to Baddeck and anchored just as the rain started. The next day we spent walking the town and getting groceries. We also booked a tour to see the Cabot Trail, the road that encircles the northern peninsula of Cape Breton Island. We had thought about renting a car, but the process is somewhat protracted, since the closest rental agency is in Sydney. As it turned out the tour was much better, as we got the advantage of the driver, Caroline, sharing much of her knowledge with us and seeing things we might have missed otherwise. There are beautiful seaside cliffs and valleys and all sorts of wildlife. If you come this way don't miss it. Then it was off to St Peter's at the south end of the lake. We fueled up and got propane but were too late to get through the bridge and lock, so we tied to the wall of the canal and waited for the morning. The locks start again at 8 AM so we were off again and motor sailed over here to Louse Harbor. With the wind down tomorrow we are off to Liscomb Harbor and then points west. I have a huge back log of pictures to put up when we get internet again. Until then please be patient.