We had a good, but quick visit to Molly's mom and were back in Annapolis and to the boat in a matter of 4 days. We dropped the mooring and headed around to NW Annapolis to Weem's Creek and anchored amidst a bunch of other cruisers waiting for the boat show. We had time for a visit with old Whitby friend Ted and cruising friends Russ and Allison. We also had a few people come look at the boat and John, from Tampa, seems interested in maybe taking over the helm of Allegria. He seems a wonderful guy and would be a good steward of our cherished boat.
We had a good time at the boat show and managed to check on all the items on our list for the new boat. Although there were some interesting looking new boats, we didn't have time to look at any, only spending time on equipment this time around.
After the show, we were hot to move on so we were off for a quick sail to Soloman's and then Deltaville, and then Norfolk in 3 quick days of travel. We fueled up in Norfolk and spent the night there and then moved down the Virginia Cut and North River to our normal anchorage at Buck's Island, just north of the Abermarle Sound. During the night we were invaded by blind mosquitos by the millions, who left some sort of green residue all over the boat. Very gross, but the good news is that it washed off readily with the salt water washdown.
We sailed across the Abermarle and up the Alligator River and then across the Alligator Pungo Canal and anchored in Bellhaven after a 50 knot squall pummeled us as a front passed over. The next day we headed on down to Oriental, but the docks were full so we anchored in Adam's Creek for the night. A spot opened up on the dock the next day so we headed back to Oriental and tied up to wait out Tropical Storm Nestor. As it passed by we were very protected and comfortable, even though waves were crashing over the breakwater. While there, we made a trip to the grocery and dined at M&M restaurant, and also ran into Anita and Tom, who we had met there a few years ago. Tom is the dockmaster at Whitaker Creek Marina, and we had a nice visit catching up. Anita dropped off some wonderful soup and coffeecake. We never cease t be amazed at the kindness we find in the folks we meet along the way and it's one of the things that keeps us going.
We were off early the next morning to catch the tide at the Beaufort Inlet and sailed down to Wrightsville Beach. We got in right before dark and anchored up for yet another frontal passage. We sat there for a day or two for groceries and rest. We wanted to get some of the famous Robert's chicken salad, along with a few other odds and ends.
The weather cleared and the wind was right so off we went down the ICW to the Cape Fear River. We hit the tide right and were spit out of the river and headed down to Charleston. After an overnight sail , we pulled into Charleston and anchored off the Coast Guard base and began to sample the pleasures of this delightful place. We've eaten at our favorite places, shrimp and grits at the Fleet's Landing and fried chicken with fried okra and collard greens at Jestine's, and enjoyed going to the farmer's market with Whitby friends, Fred and Ruth Ann. It's a pleasure just to wander the streets and look at the restored homes and courtyards.
There's another front coming by tonight and we plan to head out early in the morning for Beaufort, SC and to visit old cruising friends, Alan and Cathy. Time to get moving again.

We left Port Jeff on a quiet day and motor sailed over to Port Washington, just outside the Throg’s Neck Bridge and the start of the East River. It’s a really nice harbor with good protection and services. The city moorings there used to offer two free nights, but are transitioning away from that. We were told now it’s one night free and starting next year no more free nights. It’s still a good deal at $25 per night for the moorings, which also includes a launch service if you don’t want to fool with the dinghy.
We spent a couple of nights and caught up on shopping and saw a movie. From there we caught a fair tide through the city via the East River, always a thrill and then down New York Harbor and under the Verrazano Narrows Bridge. Then it was a short hop across the outer harbor to Atlantic Highlands, NJ, also a good anchorage and with good services. We spent several days there waiting for weather and finally got a window to head south down the Jersey shore. We managed to find some great eateries and saw another movie. The bagel deli in town was great and we had an excellent burger at Zoe’s. There is also a good grocery and an excellent walkway along the waterfront there to work off all the food. As you walk along you can see the NYC skyline in the distance behind the Verrazano Bridge.
It started out as a light Northeasterly, but eventually filled in and we sailed down passed Atlantic City and dawn saw us off Cape May. We cut the corner and had a fair tide up the Delaware Bay, close reaching in 15-20 knots, and we made record time up the bay on that screaming reach. We were at the C&D Canal at the tide change so we had a good ride through the canal, and then found our favorite anchoring spot at the Bohemia River.
After a quiet night we had a gentle sail down the bay to Annapolis and around to Harness Creek on the south side. We spent a few days there and then it was over to St Michael’s and a visit with Whitby friends, Fred and Ruthann. Then back to Annapolis and up Back Creek and on a mooring. We were scheduled to visit with a broker to talk about listing Allegria for the boat show. After some discussion and thought we decided to hold off on listing her until we get home so we can unload everything and clean her up. It would be very difficult to show her with us living aboard. We have the mooring for a week so we plan to rent a car and go over to Cleveland to visit Molly’s Mom and the return and knock around the bay until the boat show happens. We have a lot of checking to do for equipment for the new boat.
Speaking of the new boat, it is well under way and construction is happening for the decks. We remain excited and are even thinking of another trip over to check the progress of things sometime this winter. I put on of the latest pictures up at the top of this post.
After the boat show we’ll be headed south and hopefully will be back on the west coast of Florida by the first of December.

The sail down to Provincetown was a rough and tumble affair which both of us were glad to see end. We motored out of Quahog Bay expecting some breeze but what we found was light and required motoring to keep the boat moving. With swell coming from several directions, and little wind pressure, the boat was reminiscent of the inside of a washing machine. We persevered, however, and were grateful to see the lights of the Cape before dawn and downright gleeful when we entered it’s lee. We had the anchor down in the harbor at Provincetown by eight AM and were off to explore the town. We hit some new spots and old favorites, lunch at the Lobster Pot, shopping at the Stop and Shop, and were back to the boat for an early night.
The next morning found us motoring across Cape Cod Bay and we hit the canal at the ebb and were shot though by the tide. We pulled into Onset for a day or two of rest. We made a couple of trips to the laundry and one to the grocery. An old favorite, Marc Anthony’s Pizza was busy being the Holiday weekend and left us disappointed for the first time. The lobster bisque was delightful , but the pizza, usually as delightful, was ordinary.
On Sunday we headed over to New Bedford, a place we’ve not been. There is no anchoring space there so we have avoided it in the past, but this being the year of the smelling of the roses, we decided to stop for a visit to the whaling museum. Entering the harbor there is like going into a fort, as they have a walled hurricane barrier, with large gates that can be closed in the event of a storm. It’s probably something we’ll be seeing more of along the coast now that sealevel is rising and the storms are getting stronger. We picked up a mooring at one of the marinas and set off to explore the town. It is an old whaling town, with a very diverse population from all over the world and a reputation of a more worldly view and history of tolerance due to its large immigrant population and the fact that the seamen were so well traveled. It was one of the most prominent destinations for the underground railroad in the times of slavery and many former slaves became involved in the whaling industry. As whaling declined it became a center for the textile industry, and that continues today. It is filled with historic buildings and cobblestone streets, and is the home of the New Bedford Whaling Museum. This is a definite must see, especially the over 2,000 pieces of scrimshaw, and many other treasures from the past.
We had been following the track of hurricane Dorian and with it getting closer decided to head further west to get as far from its forecast track as possible. We were very sorry to hear of the destruction that was occurring in the northern Bahamas, and were concerned about Florida and the Southeast US. We left New Bedford behind and sailed over to Block Island for a night and then on to Orient Harbor on eastern Long Island, where we sat out the passage of a cold front. Then the next day we sailed on over to Port Jefferson and found anchorage behind the barrier island in Setauket Harbor, where we sat out the hurricane as it passed by far out in the Atlantic. Even though it was far away, we saw 40 knot gusts and several rain squalls during the night, and we felt very fortunate that it was not close.
The morning brought clearing weather and lessening wind. We plan to stay here for a few days to visit with Lisa and then we’ll carry on south and west back toward the Chesapeake. Look for some pictures in the Gallery.

We picked up and headed over to Belfast on a beautiful morning that dawned clear and bright. We’ve had fantastic weather up here this year, the best yet. We’ve had very few foggy days and only a couple of rainy days. We anchored outside the mooring field and spent a couple of days visiting the town walking the harbor walk and seeing Molly’s sister, Anne. After filling the larders again at the grocery we headed down to Warren Island and picked up a mooring at the state park. We were I company with a couple of schooners who made it a beautiful sight. We went ashore but were chased away by the mosquitoes. It’s said that they are Maine’s State Bird, and these were good representatives and they were hungry.
We then headed back over to the west side of Vinalhaven to Seal Harbor and to meet up again with old cruising friends Alan and Cathy. We spent the afternoon exploring the area in the dinghy, with Alan showing us a hidden arm of water where the schooners used to winter over. The day was made complete with a dinner with them on Evening Star, the same boat they had when we met them while cruising on Allegria back in the 90’s.
We then sailed around the south end of Vinalhaven and to Hurricane Island, previously a granite quarry, then an Outward Bound School, and now home to the Hurricane Island Center for Science and Leadership. They are kind enough to let folks stop and walk the trails on the island. Molly decided to pass, but I had a great walk around the island and quarries. There are some old half finished stone carvings and many granite Blocks ready to be transported, but that never made it off the island. Then we headed up the east side of Vinalhaven to Long Cove for the night. It is a wonderful spot and very quiet and protected.
Then it was back to Rockland where we hit the grocery and did laundry with car support from Alan and Cathy and after one last visit to the ROCKLAND Café we headed back west. Our first stop was Maple Juice Cove, the site of the Olsen Farm, where Andrew Wyeth painted Christina and made it famous.
Then we sailed back to Southport and enjoyed the hospitality of Whitby friends, Bruce and Maureen one last time. Then we sailed up the Kennebunk River to Bath, home of the Maine Maritime Museum and Bath Iron Works. We spent a day touring the museum and town, learning about the incredible history of shipbuilding on the Maine coast. Bath Iron Works is still the main builder of destroyers for the US navy, and they have several underway right now.
We left Bath on the ebb tide and were shot out of the river like a cannon and sailed down to Quahog Bay and Snow Island for a couple of days to rest and do boat projects. Now we are ready to jump south and will leave today for Provincetown on the end of Cape Cod, ending our Maine idyll. I’ll post some pictures of all this in the gallery when I get a chance.

We got a lazy start after breakfast out of Port Jeff and to catch the ebb tide down the Sound. We were off to Fisher’s Island, part of New York, even though it’s positioned just off the Connecticut shore. We had never been there despite passing it by many times. There are a couple of pretty anchorages there but no going ashore. It’s all private and exclusive.
The next day we were off eastbound to the anchorage at Point Judith, another spot that we’ve passed by many times and never stopped. It’s called a harbor of refuge and is a man made harbor with a seawall surrounding the entrance to Point Judith, RI, designed as a safe spot to wait out weather when transiting Rhode Island Sound and Block Island Sound. It turned out to be a very comfortable overnight with an easy in and out.
The next day dawned with thick fog and after waiting a few hours for it to burn off to no avail, we left with zero visibility. Thank goodness for the radar and plotter. After a couple of hours a 40 knot squall came roaring through and blew all the fog away. We had a great sail down Buzzards Bay to Onset, Mass, a favorite anchorage. We waited there a day to let some weather pass by, but didn’t get off the boat, as Molly was still recovering from her injuries. While there we heard the Cape Cod Canal Authority and Onset Harbor Master announce on the radio that they were escorting a humpback whale through the canal. I guess it can be a wildlife shortcut as well as for marine traffic.
The next day, after fueling up, we caught a fair tide through the canal and out into Cape Cod Bay. It was flat calm and we were motoring out into Massachusetts Bay and over the Stellwagan Bank, home to the right whales. We usually see some when we pass by here, but no sightings this time. We did see some boats fishing for tuna, and drug a line ourselves but no luck catching.
As night fell, the wind filled in and we had a nice sail north and as the sun rose the next morning, we sighted Seguin Island and the Maine coast. We headed up the Sheepscot River to Southport, planning to visit old Whitby friends there. We had a wonderful visit and enjoyed their company for several days, before heading past Boothbay Harbor and across Muscongus Bay to Penobscot Bay. It was a quiet day and we were motorsailing slowly along, enjoying the beautiful rocky and wooded coastline. We saw many sunfish, the unusual fish that swims on its side and is all head, and even saw a shark swimming along. We turned the corner and went up the Muscle Ridge Channel past many wave washed granite islands with spruce trees somehow finding enough soil to grow. We shot through Owl’s Head passage and around the corner and into Rockland Harbor.
Rockland is a typical Maine community and harbor, a fairly large town by Maine standards, protected by a mile long breakwater with an iconic lighthouse at the end. It, in the past, was a fish and lobster processing center and was a stinky place, but now, although the processing plants are still here, it is a tourist and boating mecca and the smells are gone. There are art museums and galleries galore and restaurants of all persuasions. All manner of repairs and supplies are also available making it a favorite destination.
We were here for the SSCA Downeast Gam, a cruising get together. We had a good time seeing old friends and also visiting the Sail and Steam Museum, where the Gam was held. We spent and extra day for provisioning and visiting Molly’s sister and then sailed out of Rockland harbor and over to Vinalhaven Island and the Fox Thorofare, a passage between Vinalhaven and North Haven Islands. We were able to sail across West Penobscot Bay and ghosted through the thorofare in company with one of the big schooners carrying passengers out of Rockland for a taste of old maritime Maine. We drifted out the eastern end of the passage and into the eastern bay and went around and down to Seal Bay on Vinalhaven. We entered the harbor at low tide and, in keeping with the name, there must have been a dozen or more seals sunning themselves out on the rocks. Invariably some of them slide into the water and come over to check us out. They look like dogs as they stick their heads up out of the water to take a peek and then quickly go under to hide. We spent several idyllic days there relaxing, reading, and letting Molly rest her leg. The eagles and ospreys kept us entertained as well as watching the seals fishing.
Then we were off to Mount Desert and Acadia Park. We sailed past Stonington , across Jerico Bay and Blue Hill Bay to Southwest Harbor and came to anchor in Norwood Cove. The next morning we dinghied over to SW Harbor and had breakfast at the Common Good. They are a community organization that provides for people who need help in the winter with food and supplies. In the summer they make popovers and oatmeal for breakfast and it’s all free, but everyone leaves a donation to support the cause. The popovers are the best and the cause is good, so the donation box stays full. If you get by this way, it’s definitely highly recommended. A stop at the bakery for some of the best raisin nut bread in the world completed our visit.
Then we headed up Some’s Sound, the only fiord in the lower 48, to Somesville, a favorite anchorage of ours. A very protected spot and a good place to catch the Island Explorer free bus makes it one of the best. We usually use it as a base of operations to hike the park, but this year we did no hiking due to Molly’s injuries. We did go into Bar Harbor for lunch and took a bus ride around the park for Molly’s birthday, and enjoyed the antics of the seals and eagles.
We headed back down the sound and around the corner to pick up a mooring in Northeast Harbor. A good laundry to wash clothes and showers to wash bodies was the attraction, as well as being a beautiful spot. It is also the home of the Docksider restaurant, one of our favorites. We had to stop in for a lobster roll and blueberry pie with ice cream.
We were out the harbor the next morning and back down the Western Way and around the south end of Mount Desert and up to the Wooden Boat School. After a quick visit to the school and store, we were back on the boat relaxing for the evening. The next morning was thick with fog but it burned off for the most part by noon and we were off up the Eggemogin Reach. The wind at our back kept us moving slowly up the reach and in and out of the fog. Watching the green hills and rocky shoreline pass by never gets old. We sailed out of the north end of the reach and into the fog, but saw it lift as we passed by the south end of Cape Rosier. Around the corner and we arrived at Castine and sailed into the harbor and around to Smith’s Cove. We just got the anchor down and boat secured when the fog came back in and soon the rain started. Today we remain in this snug anchorage to wait out the weather and let the sun return. Hopefully tomorrow we can head over to Belfast, another favorite place and have another visit with Molly’s sister and family. Look for a few new pictures in the gallery.

It was back to Port Jeff and we put Allegria on a mooring in preparation for our trip to France. The evening before we were scheduled to leave Molly fell in the companionway, a drop of around 5-6 feet. I’m not sure what happened, on moment she was there and then the next she was on the cabin sole. The loud noise emanating from her confirmed that she hadn’t killed herself, and there was no obvious deformity or broken parts. The old adage about the doctor who has himself as a physician, has a fool for a doctor probably applies here, but since she was moving everything and, although hurting, seemed intact, we decided not to go to the hospital.
We decided to see how things went and she got off the boat and was able to get around fairly well. The next day, Lisa dropped us off at the train and we went to JFK and caught the plane to Paris. Thank goodness for some pain meds we had on the boat, which together with high doses of anti-inflammatories, kept Molly going, although slowly. It looks like she probably cracked a rib or two and had a bad, deep bruise on her hip and leg which made it painful to walk. She is a tough old bear, so she persevered. We caught the bus from the airport to the train station in Paris, but the traffic was terrible and we missed our train. The nonrefundable tickets were a loss but I was able to get us on the next train to Rennes, where our rental car awaited. Molly was able to barely get to the car and we were off to Treguier in Brittany.
We were staying at Tara B&B right in the village. It is a wonderful place built in the 12th century and is full of antiques and rooms with character. It is presided over by Mare Louise, who is one of the kindest and friendliest people we’ve met. Molly crashed into bed and the next day pretty much stayed there, while I went over to the boat yard and had meetings with Jean- Francois Eeman and Brice, the electrical and electronics guy, and we sorted though all the issues regarding the new boat. As always there were some compromises, but all in all, I’m very excited about the systems designed for the new boat. It’s heart will be a lithium house battery bank of around 800 amp hours, being charged by solar, wind and hydro chargers as well as a 12 volt generator. This navigational and instrument packages are also state of the art. We can’t wait to see it all come together.
The hull was just completed and has just been turned upright so I was able to meet her in person, as well as all the guys responsible for putting her together. The next day, Molly mobilized and we both went to the yard and picked out colors and countertops and went through some other options. Molly got to meet the new boat as well.
With the business of the trip out of the way, we set about doing some sightseeing. Molly was slowly improving and although she was still having great difficulty walking, we were able to take some drives around the countryside. We followed the coastline on some country one lane roads and past small farms and villages overflowing with beautiful flowers. The hydrangeas were the most striking and, many different colors.
The coast is very rough and rocky, and the water crystal clear, so it was a pleasure to just sit by the sea and watch the tide. The tides here are incredible, with 30 feet being the norm and up to 45 feet at spring tides. An incredible amount of real estate becomes exposed at low tide and islands become accessible on foot. There are signs everywhere warning to be aware of the tide, because of the danger of being swept away.
With Molly continuing to improve, we decided to visit St Malo, an old walled city a few hours east of Treguier. It was a very cool place and very old, reminding us very much of Cartagena, Columbia. It was also very full of tourists, many from England just across the channel. A very convenient ferry runs direct. We parked in a remote lot and took a bus to town as all the close parking was full. It was great fun, but we overdid it a bit because Molly began to have much pain again. We took the next day off and Molly hung out and rested, while I wandered around Treguier, taking pictures.
Every morning, Marie Louise made breakfast and we ate in a dining room filled with antique furniture and pictures. A couple of the pictures were reproductions of portions of a tapestry called The Tapestry of Bayeux, which tells the story of the Duke of Normandy invading England and becoming the King, William the Conqueror. Marie Lou told us the story and we started looking at maps and sure enough, Bayeux was only a few miles from the beaches of Normandy, where the D Day invasions took place. The next day we were off to Normandy.
We had wanted to go to Mont St Michel, but thought it wouldn’t be possible for Molly to enjoy it so Normandy was our fall back. We first went to Bayeux and saw the tapestry. It is incredible, as it is 70 meters long and 1 meter wide. It is displayed in a dark room and is in a climate controlled case. You are given a handset which describes what you are seeing as you stroll along the tapestry. It tells the story in pictures of exquisite embroidery and is just amazing. We had a lunch at a sidewalk café and then a visit to the cathedral which is the Notre Dame de Bayeux. It is reminiscent of the Notre Dame in Paris on a smaller scale.
We then headed to the beach. Omaha beach is a beautiful place now full of vacationers and sun seekers. It’s hard to imagine that it was the place where the liberation of Europe began and was witness to the carnage on D Day. There are many museums around but the most dramatic place is the American Cemetery, where many of the Americans killed in the invasion are interred. It is a reminder of the horror of war and of the selflessness and honor of the Greatest Generation, who gave their all in support of the cause of freedom.
The next day we bid goodbye to Marie Louise and Treguier and headed back to Rennes and the train to Paris. We spent the night at the airport and were up the next day for the flight home. By the way, we stayed at a hotel called Citizen M. They are up and coming and there are several around. I would highly recommend it, the price is reasonable and it is very cool.
After a long plane ride back to LFK and the train back to Port Jeff, we are back on the boat. We spent a few days here with Lisa and now are planning to head out tomorrow and ultimately to Maine. Molly continues to improve, but it looks like it will be a slow process, so we plan to take it easy on the way.
Look for some pictures of all this in the gallery.