February 6, 2015

We walked down the narrow lane toward the sea. It was late afternoon and the sun was setting, filling our eyes with a glare, causing us to squint. The road was quiet. Few cars passed this way. On the south side were buildings at street level, but on the north side was a stone wall about twenty feet high. On top was a walkway that lay in front of the individual homes on the hill. The houses were a mix of brightly painted colors and shabby brown and gray. We were in Viejo Mazatlan, or Old Town, as we gringos like to call it.

Viejo Mazatlan is like entering a world reminiscent of days past. An era where a variety of artists came together to create a community alive; their art inspiring ideas and their ideas igniting philosophical and political discussions. With its international influx of creatives, we could feel this kind of artistic energy swirling through the town.

Jay and I climbed up the stairs leading to the walkway in front of the homes. We were on an Art Walk, held every first Friday during high season, and looking for the home of Susan Carnes, one of the artists. Almost to the end of the sidewalk, we were wondering if we were lost when we saw a handful of balloons tied to a post and some people milling about, entering and exiting a door.

Inside, Ms. Carnes' paintings not only decorated the walls, but the house itself was a piece of art. Hers is one of the few in this neo-classical neighborhood that has been restored, keeping its old world charm. High ceilings with heavy, carved wood furniture, laced with bright colors adorned the rooms. A steady flow of visitors moved through the house, sipping wine and commenting on the beauty surrounding them.

We moved on to yet another refinished home. This one had a pool in the center of the house and like most Mexican homes, had an indoor/outdoor garden; trees and plants growing up and through open roofs.

I fell in love with a piece of art here. An elephant on canvas. He was made with newspaper print and filled only the bottom right quarter of the frame. The rest of the canvas was left blank, but for the bottom eighth. The elephant walked on a bed of other old newspaper clippings and magazine photos.

We explored several more art galleries before finding a place for supper.

Dinner was at The Water's Edge. Having had such a wonderful experience there before, we decided to return. We sat in the indoor/outdoor garden. The far wall was brick but had been covered with stucco. Yet there were openings in the stucco, allowing for glimpses of brick to show through. Protruding from the top of the wall was an iron rod railing. Vibrant flowers cascaded over the edge, adding color. Opposite, on the other wall were four arched doorways, all covered with wood and iron rod, but for one that led into the main dining room and out to the street.

We enjoyed a meal of curried shrimp while being serenaded by a duo (one Mexican pianist and one Canadian trumpet) with tunes like My Funny Valentine. Not exactly Mexican music, but fantastic service and delicious food in a lovely atmosphere.

All in all, a great evening.