Well I spent the passed four days on the west coast of PR buying a car. More on that later. But the surf conditions were just wonderful. The first day, the sets were clearly to big for my skill level, most sets came in around 10 feet or more. But by day three the swell had subsided to 6 o 8 with an occasional larger set blasting in. So I didn't catch that many rides, three to be exact, but what a rush. Let me explain for the non surfing crowd what one is up against when paddling out.

Since I haven't surfed in so long and really am not much of a surfer yet, positioning within the surf zone is critical. You really have several zones within the actual surf zone that must be identified by observation. The smaller surf normally develops on the "inside" so on a big day and being a novice surfer this is really where you'll catch the most rides. But there is a catch. Now on a big day the larger sets build and build and then break on the "outside." Now if your on the "inside" when a larger set is setting up to break, man you better be paddling like death is imminent, because you need to "push out" beyond the surf zone before those 3 or 4 larger waves start to break. If you get caught and the waves breaks either on you or in front of you, you better hold on and hold your breath! Now your caught in "the pitt" which is the zone between the "outside" and "inside" or another name for it is the "impact zone." Once the wave releases you and you come up for air your going to rapidly get whacked again and again. By the time the set comes through your pretty exhausted, but you still need to paddle and paddle hard to get on the "outside" to rest just in case another larger set rears up. These are the rigors.

After the above happened to me twice, once while first getting in the water and once while lollygagging on the "inside" I decided to get to the outside. As mentioned before by being on the outside you can avoid the impact zone but now you have to ride the big ones. I rode the largest wave to date. Wave was clearly overhead, beautiful and clean. It jacked up and rapidly shot me forward, I popped up on the board and cut right before I hit the bottom of the wave. Next thing I knew I had my right hand stuck in the wave as I raced along and the curl right over my right shoulder. What a rush. No way really to explain the feeling, only other surfers would truly understand.

The exercise involved with surfing is top notch. It is not a sport meant for folks out of shape. After the hour and half secession I was exhausted. My shoulders were aching from all the paddling, but I was deeply satisfied with the experience. The picture is not so good because it is so far away. You can just make out a surfer on the edge of the curl. Hopefully you can see how clean and lean the break is as it peels left and right before closing out.


Capt Chris