Arriving by either boat or car to Quebec City means passing miles of majestic farm fields of wheat, corn and beans, planted on hillsides and tended by well-kept farmsteads. The St. Lawrence River also provides temperate weather for vineyards, orchards and flower gardens.
Geographically, Quebec City is due north of the state of Maine and the Appalachian Trail continues across the US border into Quebec.
Quebec is the oldest city in North America, has the oldest Catholic Church and the oldest road. The definitive battle between the English and the French was fought here on the
Plains of Abraham, establishing English rule well before the US colonists fought for independence. Many of the battements, buildings, streets and even restaurants date back to the 1600s.
One of the first things we did when arriving in Quebec City was a visit to the Citadel, home of Royal 22 Regiment. This is an active military base featuring an elaborate
"changing of the guard." I toured the regimental museum and discovered that the "Warriors of Quebec" have supported the US and its allies since WWI including modern day Afghanistan.
The changing of the guard was spectacular with a marching band,
soldiers with bearskin hats and a live goat as a mascot. We left the parade grounds thinking that these French Canadian soldiers are serious bad asses and we are lucky they are on our side.
Beyond the walls of Citadel lay the Old City, recognizable by its iconic landmark,
Chateau Frontenac, the most photographed hotel in the world. Charming store fronts perch on steep cobbled streets tantalizing passersby with maple goodies and French fashions. Lovely little restaurants and bistros line both sides of the streets which go off in any direction but straight. Horse drawn carriages carry tourists up to the top of the boardwalk where you can look out over the St. Lawrence River. Strolling around town we were constantly surprised when peering around the corner into an alley where you would have expected to see a dumpster but instead find hidden flower gardens, tinkling fountains,
intriguing sculptures or embracing lovers.
Although Quebec boasts a fine range of diverse cuisines, our favorite restaurant was Aux Anciens Canadien, which serves authentic French Canadian food. My entrée included bison, elk and red deer and Kurt had the lamb shank. The restaurant was made up of little rooms and our table was right under the eaves upstairs, room enough for only 3 or 4 tables. With such an intimate ambiance, we struck up a conversation with our dinning companions. This is where we learned the names of all of the provinces and territories of Canada and the differences between them. Thank you Keith and Patty for recommending it.
We left our boat in Marina Du Port Quebec for three weeks while we travelled to Cleveland for my son's surgery and back. We left a hot summer town filled with tourists wearing sandals. We returned to a town where the leaves are starting to change and people are wearing sweatshirts and jeans. Our larders are filled to the brim with food and
all kinds of supplies and we have all the charts we need for the next leg of our trip. It is time for us to move on.
The last thing to do before we leave is to return the rental car, the one that had gotten us back and forth to Cleveland, some of it twice. She was a good little car. The way it works is you go to the rental place and one of their representatives drives the car back to your place and lets you out. On this day we were in luck! A most lovely young woman expertly drove us through town, telling us a little about herself and answering our questions. Her grandmother was an American from Boston and our driver has made at least 1 trip to the US every year of her life. She served in the French-Canadian army, signing on right after 9-11 and did two tours of duty in Afghanistan, both occasions deployed with US army soldiers who she described as "so much fun!" When we arrived back at the marina we did not want to get out of the car, we were so engrossed in our driver's account of Quebec history. We simply could not understand how one whole section of the country could speak a separate language, have a separate flag, separate cultures and still be a part of the rest of a country. Our driver explained that in spite of the French defeat and subsequent English takeover, the new English governor told the people of Quebec that although they would have to abide by English law, they would not need to change their language, religion or customs. This was a good idea as there were about 25 Frenchmen to 1 Brit at the time. Our driver said that from time to time there is a dust up of secessionists wanting to form their own country of Quebec, but she said she never thought it would happen.
As we said our goodbyes, we thought about how much we had come to understand and appreciate Canada and its people while we were in Quebec City. Whether you love history, religion, food, shopping, men or women in uniform, sailing adventures, or more. Quebec is a place that will ignite your passions.