Nightide - Ship's Log

10 May 2018 | Marquesas - Nuka Hiva
10 May 2018 | Marquesas - Island of Nuka Hiva
10 May 2018 | Marquesas - Ua Poa
10 May 2018 | Marquesas - Island of Oa Poa
10 May 2018 | Marquesas - Tahuata
10 May 2018 | Marquesas - Fatu Hiva
10 May 2018 | Marquesas - Hiva Oa
10 May 2018 | HB
10 May 2018 | Hiva Oa
13 April 2018 | 20 nm from Hiva Oa
13 April 2018 | 20 nm from Hiva Oa
13 April 2018 | 20 nm from Hiva Oa
13 April 2018 | 20 nm from Hiva Oa
01 April 2018 | 600 nm from Mexico
01 April 2018 | 600 nm from Mexico
23 March 2018 | La Cruz
19 March 2018 | La Cruz Mexico

(293) Marquesas - Island of Nuka Hiva Pt3

10 May 2018 | Marquesas - Nuka Hiva
HB
We passed a couple of small shops and stopped at a popular restaurant where we enjoyed a yummy lunch of curried prawns, and tender goat. The center of the island is on a large plateau, which is a mix of pine forest and farmland, very very similar looking to sections of Vancouver Island. The story is that Captain Cook, and likely others in his time, planted pine trees on these islands as a resource for ship spares. They have adapted well, but we saw no evidence of harvesting them. We did stop at a couple of homes to buy mangos, and then spotted the mother load at a large market farm. The owners and workers were very welcoming and asked us what we would like and they picked them for us. We paid $30 for 3 boxes of lettuce, tomatoes, pompelmoose, cucumber, mangos, and papaya, which we split over the 3 boats. We drove home feeling heartily proud as the accomplished cruising hunter-gathers that we were, and back at the dock bolstered further by the many envious looks as we proceeded to unload all of this in our dinghies.

(297) Marquesas - Island of Nuka Hiva

10 May 2018 | Marquesas - Island of Nuka Hiva
HB
We rented a truck for a day, $130 USD. Ernie, from Patience, John from Aftermath and Ian and I spent the day driving the single paved island road. We stopped to take lots of pictures, looking from up high on the hills, and walked along the small beaches lower down in tight bays. There are few archaeological sights on the island, which at one time had a population of over 20,000. However there is one place on the west side of the island where the forest has been cleared from the rock ruins of an early community proposed to have been home to 2,000. Today only the rock platforms upon which they built their homes and the rock lined cooking wells remain. Similar rock platforms we have seen on the other islands, sometime deep in the forest and overgrown with tree roots. The construction of them is a marvel, made by hand, some as large as a meter square, shaped and fitted to make smooth rock walls and flat walkable surfaces. This one on Nuka Hiva is spread over half a kilometer and is organized in its construction to have a large rectangular, flat, grassed common area, rimmed by rock platforms of the more than a dozen homes.

(296) Marquesas - Island of Nuka Hiva

10 May 2018 | Marquesas - Ua Poa
HB
Nuka Hiva. We've just spent 5 days here. It is the largest one, and the administrative island of the Marquesas. And it has one of the best anchorages, with lots of space (there are possibly 50 cruising boats here), with very welcoming 20-40' anchor depths. This is the busy season for cruising so the small café at the dock is crowded with people speaking lots of different languages and gazing into their smart phones. At peak time the dinghy tie up area is a cluster of zodiaks tied up to two metal rings on the concrete pier, each near an aluminum ladder. Getting in and out requires pushing your way through the other boats to the single ring, leaving a long painter to allow others to get in and out, and sometimes climbing over other dinghies to the ladder. Bringing back provisions, propane tanks and other heavies requires a lot of patience and balance and we often need two people to muscle our way through it all.

(295) Marquesas - Island of Ua Poa

10 May 2018 | Marquesas - Island of Oa Poa
HB
An overnight sail 60nm took us to the island of Ua Pou with sv Patience as company. We pulled into a small bay on the south coast and slept. The next day we took the dinghy to a nearby bay and tried unsuccessfully to land on the bouldery beach. One swell literally picked us up and dumped us on the big rounded rocks, and then the next one lifted us off. Ian and I looked at each other in shock and decided to skip the trip ashore and go back to the boat for a swim.
This island has lots of tall spires, with their tops disappearing into the clouds. They would be great for rock climbing, I wonder if anyone as actually scaled them.

(294) Marquesas - Island of Tahuata

10 May 2018 | Marquesas - Tahuata
HB
Our next destination was the island of Tahuata. We stayed 2 days but did not go ashore because of the swells. But I visited our friends on 3 other boats in the kayak; Cool Change, Maia and One Fine Day. The water was clear enough to see our full chain and anchor in 35', so we swam a lot and cleaned some of the growth off the hull. The beach here looks right out of the postcards, and the stories of marooning in the Pacific.

(293) Fatu Hiva - Road Trip

10 May 2018 | Marquesas - Fatu Hiva
HB
The bay and island are a scenic wonder. We were surrounded on 3 sides by tall headlands and spires. Goats grazed on the hillside and hens and roosters run wild. To my surprise there is little bird life, but further in the deeper forested valleys we occasionally spotted a birds of paradise. Our first day ashore we were invited to someone's home. Poi and Raita traded fishing lures for bananas, pompelmoose, plantain, lemons and oranges, and we arranged for them to drive us across the island the next day. Ernie from sv Patience came with us. It cost each of us $50 US, and was well worth it. We stopped often, taking pictures, picking bananas and guava, stopping for awhile for road work that blocked the narrow road, and swimming in a river. In the afternoon, Poi had to visit a mechanic in the nearby community so we bought barbequed chicken and flavoured rice and ate it under a tree at the beach, then stretched out on the grass for a nap. It was a fun drive, Poi and Raita in the front with their 1 year boy on Raita's lap and the three of us in the back seat. France has put a good effort into building and maintaining infrastructure, and there is a fulltime road crew working on the single island road, 70% of which is gravel. The paved areas are in the steep sections, where hairpin turns are so steep and narrow we needed to do 2 point turns to corner them. We arrived back at our boats just as the sun was setting. Then the next day we hiked up a forested valley to a waterfall, passing a bull with big horns that Ernie reassured us was quite safe, until he drew within 3 feet of it and it lowered his head and snorted at him.....should have seen him jump and smartly get to the other side of the road while we were bent over laughing. After an hour and a half ending I a narrow bush track we arrived, and had a cooling swim in the deep pool, apparently with eels.
Vessel Name: Nightide
Vessel Make/Model: Liberty 458
Hailing Port: Yellowknife, NWT, Canada
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