From Uturoa to the Paipai Pass is about ....nm. And from there to Bora Bora about .....nm. Some squalls were forecasted for late afternoon, but even as we motored through the Avapei Pass the western skyline was a deep grey. The Paipai Pass is narrow but deep and it takes some getting used to heading out from a calm and sheltered lagoon through a visually dramatic and perilous opening in the reef, accompanied with the sounds of large waves crashing on either side. Usually I'm at the helm, sometimes with white knuckles, but always totally focused on keeping the boat on the right heading. Here, and at Avapehi Pass in Huahine, on good days, surfers ride the waves on the outer reef. They look like good surfing waves but for obvious reasons, pretty scary. I found it also interesting watching small fishing boats making their way through the large open sea swells and through the passes after a days work. As those swells near shallow waters they grow in size and these can also affect the mouth of the pass. On either side they curl, and spumes of spray are blown from their tops. And we thought fishermen in the north Atlantic had it rough.

Anyway, back to our crossing. About 2/3 the way to Bora Bora, and on a very enjoyable beam reach, the leading edge of bad weather caught us, so all aboard decided to turn back. As we closed on Paipai Pass and I turned the boat to line up the route in, we were in 33 knots wind, and I was calling out the increasing wind readouts to Ian who at the same time is trying to keep the front window on the dodger clear of rain so we can have some visibility. 40 kts right at the entrance. Well that was exciting. I gripped that wheel so tight no one could pull it away from me. Around us other boats were also running for cover, toward a pass navigable by only one boat at a time. But everyone was very polite and you could almost hear the audible sighs of relief as each completed the gauntlet.