Sophie Sails

The family von surf

Well, after all that hard work bird watching, sailing, whale watching, etc. we thought we needed a break. So, we took the day off and went surfing at what is almost our local spot, playa Bruja. All the crew got into the act: catching some waves, catching up with a few good books, catching some rays. Mexican style shrimp cocktail, fish tacos, carne asada, chimichangas with beer, daiquiris, and sparkling lemonade at the palapa restaurant on the beach provided the sustenance for the day. Tomorrow, new crew in the form of Dan's sister Chris shows up, just in time to ring in the New Year. Sunday, we swap Gayle and Stephen, who will make their exodus back to the mountains of New Mexico for Sheryl, in from Northern California. With the new crew we return to our southern ways, with the plan to take about ten days to trek back to Isla Isabel for an encore, then San Blas, Chacala, and on to Puerto Vallarta.

Happy New Year to all from the crew of Sophie
Lying Marina Mazatlan
30 December 2011


Back to Mazatlan

Wednesday dawned Easter egg blue and warm. Tea in the cockpit while our old friends from Baja the fabulous flying bat rays put on a morning matinee. We readied for sea and began the beat back up the coast to Mazatlan where some more surfing was waiting. The sail up was mild, 8-12 knots, three-foot seas; it was enough to repress (and expel) the appetite of some of the crew, but the old salts thoroughly enjoyed it. A few whales came to wish us goodbye and the ever-present frigate birds were out in full force on the hunt. They're happy to fish, but seem to be even more happy stealing fish from another bird: frigate, booby or gull. While on the island, though, there is complete tranquility among the species. Thursday was spent recharging and resting with a little boat cleanup thrown in.

The crew of Sophie
Lying Marina Mazatlan
29 December 2011


Isla Isabel

Isla Isabel did not disappoint. We anchored in about 30 feet in a small bay on the south side of the main island. The setting was a bit intimidating as the waves wrapped around the island and crashed upon the rocky outcroppings that make up the bay boundaries. There was one other boat anchored in naturally the best spot. We took a position close to them, close enough to cause a little anxiety as anchoring can be a bit tribal. However, the hook went down easily and took a good set on the first go around. So, after a brief nap a shore party was formed by all to take in this fabled island. We were immediately greeted on the beach by a gentlemanly three-foot iguana, so deliberate in its mannerisms. After that it was an assault of color from the blue footed boobies, red throated frigate birds, tie-dyed red crabs and other animals that live free of fear from predators including man. It was almost a somber experience to walk among the birds only a few feet away, some setting on eggs, others preening their young. In a single tree, the size of a small lemon tree there would sit dozens frigate birds almost nose to tail. One tended to be quiet and not look directly at the birds as if not to intrude on their family life. While looking down from a cliff on the groves of trees with tens of thousands of birds gave yet another impression, one of a sci-fi movie where we stumbled upon the nesting grounds of some terrible race of aliens waiting to do their horror to humanity.

We took a swim in the velvet-blue lagoon and met our bay neighbor who was not at all miffed by our close anchor job, but complimented the family crew on a well-executed landing.

We hiked through the short jungle canopy, on top of which the frigate birds were nesting only a few feet above our heads, to the center of the island which contains a crater lake about 500 yards in diameter. We were curious about whether it was a fresh water or sea water lake, but did not test it, though the frigate birds seemed to enjoy a low swoop and a quick drink. On the eastern shore while beachcombing a few whales came close by shore, the rising underwater terrain providing the upwelling food that sustains these gentle giants. Also on eastern shore is a small research camp. The students come for an extended period, camping on the beach, tagging birds and studying their nesting habits. What a glorious laboratory!

The crew of Sophie, luxuriating in the cockpit
26 December 2011
5:30 PM local time
21 degrees, 51 minutes N
105 degrees 53 minutes W

Bound for Isla Isabel,

We cast off our lines mid-morning to catch the outgoing tide for Isla Isabel. The winds obeyed the forecast and have given us pleasant sailing conditions. Gayle and Dan were on deck talking about what sort of wild life would we perhaps see while en route. Our analogy was that animal watching is a bit like going out during a meteor shower; they're fun to watch partly because they're a bit rare and one has to be both diligent and lucky. As if on cue, a few minutes later we were treated to a large pod of dolphins parading their stuff off the starboard bow. They passed us going the opposite way, headed north to either fun or food. Dan and Gayle appeared to be favored this day, for as the sun got low on the horizon, and the invariable discussion about the green flash ensued, all hands were on deck. Though there was an overcast, it was clear right on the horizon to the west. And lo and behold, there appeared that elusive sunset charm. "Wow, did you see that?" Well, Gayle and Dan certainly did, but Will glanced away to attend to his camera and Stephen inadvertently left his sunglasses on, the polarizing lenses apparently canceling out the effect. Oh well, there's always tomorrow...

The faithful following may perhaps remember previous reports of the ever enjoyable behavior of the dolphins playing in Sophie's bow wave and the keen reader may even recollect tales of psychedelic trails of phosphorescent plankton entertaining the crew. So what does one get when the two are combined? A spectacular, Las Vegas style light show! While admiring the blue-green trails emanating from Sophie's pressure wave, Gayle was the first to spot what looked like either a fish or an eel aglow in that characteristic color. It took a few "glimpses out of the corner of the eye" to confirm that there were indeed fish swimming along with Sophie on her night run. However, upon closer view ala the bow pulpit it was clear that what we were seeing were dolphins playing in the bow wave. Each time they would dart back and forth, up and down their skin turned into a liquid neon Technicolor dreamcoat of many colors with the addition of a very long tail, about two to three times their body length. The effect turned these mammals into eerie ghost-like apparitions, though playful ones.

For the night watch, we've elected to pair up: Dan with Gayle and Will with Stephen. We're going to try out three hour rotations beginning at six PM through the night till six AM. Since Gayle and Stephen have yet to spend their first night off shore, it was decided to break them in gently with a partner.

The crew of Sophie, settling into the night watch
25 December 2011
6:30 PM local time
22 degrees, 42 minutes N
106 degrees 16 minutes W