Early in our voyage, Deanna and I decided that we wanted to avoid entries which would cause offense to anyone who might read our website. It has meant that we have had to pass up some pretty interesting stories about other cruisers. It has also meant that we haven't passed on some "cultural" experiences that we have had along the way. Today we decided to bend that rule just a little bit.

While on the island of Hawaii we've met people from many races, backgrounds, and financial levels. Hawaii is definitely a diverse island. We've seen houses on the beach that sell for over $30,000,000. We've also met many indigenous Hawaiians who have no hope of ever being able to afford even a modest house in their homeland. One Hawaiian that I talked with at the bus depot told me that this island truly is a "third world country." After spending a few weeks now in non-tourist areas I can see what he means.

But, right now, I don't want to write about economics. I want to talk about people's attitudes towards others. I mention a bit about the money because I think it all may be related.

Overall, Hawaii has been a very friendly place. The people here have been more willing to help strangers than I believe myself and my neighbours would be back home. It all started as we arrived with the Hilo Homeland Security agent, Bill, that made check-in a breeze and then told me what sights I had to see. While most customs agents are tough guys who like to throw their weight around, Bill efficiently completed the formalities and then had time to tell us about the island he loved. People here in Honokohau Harbor have been just as friendly. "Gibby" and "Stimey" a couple of guys we met as we arrived work on charter boats and have been a wealth of information. Mike, from Honu Sail Charters was not only friendly but offered to take us to Costco and to his house to use his hot tub! Even Carrie, who works in the Harbor master office was very friendly once we got to know her.

To top it off, Dee was leeching an Internet signal today from the Department of Aquatic Resources near the dock. They came out to ask her what she was doing. She confessed and was expecting a brow beating. Instead, they invited her into their air-conditioned office to finish her internet session. How's that for friendly? In Hawaii they call this outgoing and friendly manner the "Aloha Spirit."

But, I wish I could say that all of our experiences have been blanketed in happiness and aloha spirit. Just as people have been incredibly friendly to us, others have been overtly hostile. I'm not using that term lightly. Some people have been very clear, blunt you could say, to tell us that they don't want us here. For example, we asked directions in Hilo and the lady almost yelled at us as she insulted our intelligence for not knowing the way already. It was quite shocking. During our tour of the island by land we talked with an indigenous Hawaiian resident from Kealakekua Bay about anchoring there. The cruising guide we have says it's a great spot to anchor and to visit the Captain Cook Monument. Well, our local friend agreed it was a lovely bay but told us openly that we were not welcome. Even though legally we can anchor he mentioned that is was likely that something bad would happen to our boat. We thought this may have been an isolated meeting with a particularly bitter person but even our cruising guide mentioned this was happening in other anchorages along the coast.

There are other examples I could list but the point is that how we have been treated has been one extreme or the other. The question is why? I think it may be related to the massive increase in property values as outsiders from the mainland inundate the island and buy up the choice property. If you have money, Hawaii is a great place. If you are working for a living you probably have a low paying service job and may never afford a house. It's a tough situation that we also saw in Mexico. In a large part we're seeing some significant bitterness towards the "Howlies" (white people) displayed by the indigenous Hawaiians. I have been here too short a time to try to understand or explain the dynamics at work. But, it is apparent from the attitudes, and from the upside down state flags that there is a strong undercurrent of dissatisfaction among the native people of Hawaii.