Speakeasy, Over The Horizon

The Voyages of Mark & Deanna Roozendaal

24 November 2016 | 26 41.15'S:153 7.72'E, Mooloolaba, Australia
13 November 2016 | 25 54.12'S:153 01.72'E, Tin Can Bay, Australia
12 November 2016 | 25 31.69'S:152 57.91'E, Fraser Island, Australia
31 October 2016 | 24 45.38'S:152 23.72'E, Bundaberg, Australia
30 October 2016 | 23 52'S:153 55'E, On Passage - Noumea, New Caledonia to Bundaberg, Australia
29 October 2016 | 23 28'S:156 47'E, On Passage - Noumea, New Caledonia to Bundaberg, Australia
28 October 2016 | 22 57'S:159 54'E, On Passage - Noumea, New Caledonia to Bundaberg, Australia
27 October 2016 | 22 40'S:163 13'E, On Passage - Noumea to Australia
26 October 2016 | 22 22'S:166 10'E, On Passage - Noumea to Australia
18 October 2016 | 22 16.60'S:166 26.40'E, Noumea, New Caledonia
17 October 2016 | 21 37'S:168 13'E, between Vanuatu and New Caledonia
14 October 2016 | 19 31.57'S:169 26.66'E, Port Resolution, Tanna I, Vanuatu
14 October 2016 | 19 31.57'S:169 26.66'E, Port Resolution, Tanna I, Vanuatu
14 October 2016 | 19 31.90'S:169 26.98'E, Mt. Yasur, Tanna I, Vanuatu
12 October 2016 | 19 31.58'S:169 29.65'E, Port Resolution, Vanuatu
09 October 2016 | 20 14.36'S:169 46.63'E, Aneityum, Vanuatu
03 October 2016 | 20 14.36'S:169 46.63'E, Aneityum, Vanuatu
02 October 2016 | 19 39'S:172 03'E, On Passage from Fiji to Vanuatu
01 October 2016 | 18 43'S:174 16'E, On Passage from Fiji to Vanuatu
27 September 2016 | 17 40.88'S:177 23.16'E, Vuda Marina, Fiji

First Impressions of the Tuamotus

18 May 2016 | 15 49.21'S:145 7.13'W, Tearavero Village, Kauehi, Tuamotos
Deanna
Top - Dee, Deb & John on the beach inside the atoll. Looks like paradise doesn't it?

Left - The "potluck tree" that we used to hold the appies for our cruiser sundowner party a couple of days ago.

Right - the pier and beach in front of the village. Gorgeous colours and perfectly flat water.

We've been anchored inside the lagoon of Kauehi off of the village of Tearavero for four days now. It's been peaceful with great snorkeling! I'll try to get you caught up.

First, a little bit more about atolls. We don't have these up North and they are so unusual that is important to understand how cool these islands are. Coral atolls are the coral reef that used to be around an island, except that the island in the middle has completely eroded away, leaving only a ring of coral as the island and water in the middle. Some of the coral atoll around the edge is underwater, and some is just above the surface by 5-10' or so. These are not small islands either, in circumference at least. Kauehi, where we are, is 8-12 miles across. Keep in mind, that the entire middle of the atoll is ocean and the only land is around the edge, varying in width from a 100' to a 1/4 mile wide.

The atolls that we will visit on this trip all have a pass to the inside, so we anchor inside the ring of the atoll! There may be big waves and trade winds blowing outside, but inside we get the wind but no seas at all. It's amazingly tranquil and gorgeous while the wind keeps things cool.

The ocean inside the atoll varies from shallow to a couple hundred feet. Just outside the atoll is about 4000' deep. The bottom inside is sandy with coral heads sprinkled around. These coral heads make anchoring especially tricky because even when we anchor in the white sand between the coral, a wind shift can wrap our chain terribly around the coral. Obviously we want to avoid that for lots of reasons!

At Tearavero village, here inside Kauehi, where we are anchored now, is a very small village with a couple hundred residents, two tiny stores, a very old catholic church, and not much else. They used to make their income from pearl farming, but pearl prices have dropped, bringing poverty to the area. Most have gone back into the copra (dried coconut) business again. The residents live a very basic existence, but are outgoing friendly, and love to try out a few words of english as we do the same with our french.

The stores are pretty quaint and really only have canned goods, junk food, pop, and beer. In other words, they are nearly perfect in my books! We tried some chicken flavored cheezies from Fiji today and loved them. Dee would like to see some more vegetables, but they are non-existent on these coral atolls. Canned veggies, yes. Fresh, not a chance. And, prices are very high because of the difficulty in getting things here. A can of coke would be $3 and a can of beer is $4. Food is generally very expensive except for pork and beans, of all things, where a large is $2.50. Yes, they are excellent pork and beans as well!

There is a supply ship that arrives, on some unknown schedule, every few weeks with some fresh supplies but the residents buy them up immediately. There is also a plane that supposedly flies baguettes from Tahiti twice a week, but it is broken down so no baguettes!

Even when there isn't much that we want or need, we still try to spend some money at each of these stores. They have a pretty poor economy and need the money much more than we do.

The white sand on the beach is all coral sand so it is incredibly fine and lovely to walk on. The snorkeling is spectacular with very clear water and 100' visibility on a good day. Much of the coral is dead, but there is still enough live coral to attract a wide variety of colorful fish.

Yesterday, we snorkeled several different areas, including a huge coral head a mile out towards the middle of the atoll. It rises up from about 100' deep and has great cliffs of coral tumbling into the depths. Fish of all types were everywhere. I must say that it was very eery floating above the deeper blue water off of the cliffs. I found that I would snorkel much deeper than I would back home because it just didn't feel deep with the clear water. We were snorkeling this coral head with John & Deb from Moonshadow and they both saw a shark. Dee and I missed it, unfortunately, so we are now down in the shark count. From what I hear from others, we will see our fill of sharks at the next atoll, Fakarava.

This afternoon, Dee and I lathered up with extra sunscreen and took a walk about a mile north of the Village. As the atoll narrowed we could see the tranquil lagoon on our left, and the open ocean crashing on the reef to our right. We did head over to walk on the beach for a while. It's gorgeous, but quite disheartening to see all the plastic that washes up from thousand of miles away. They should make anyone back home who litters walk these beaches and they will never litter again. Plastic containers of all sorts, flip flops, plumbing pips, and hundreds of water bottles are everyone. Lettering shows that the litter is coming from Asia and from North America. I've always had a hate-on for plastic water bottles and this really affirms that! It's such a mess and this is just one tiny little island.

Tomorrow, we will up anchor and carefully cross the lagoon to the SE corner where we will likely spend another week. There is no village there, just more motu's - the little islands that make up the outer ring of the atoll. It'll be a careful trip as the coral heads can reach up from the bottom of the lagoon all the way to the surface. They can be sheer towers so the depth sounder is no help at all. Eyeball navigation is king here and the key is to only cross unknown water in a lagoon when the sun is well overhead so we can see the lighter patches - meaning shallow water - before we hit them. It should an exciting day and we look forward to further exploration of our first atoll.
Comments
Vessel Name: Speakeasy
Vessel Make/Model: 2007 Manta IV 42' Catamaran
Hailing Port: Victoria, BC, Canada
Crew: Mark & Deanna Roozendaal
About:
In 2005 we were lucky enough to be able to take a one year sabbatical where we sailed from Victoria BC to Mexico and Hawaii in our Catalina 42. We had a fantastic time! As soon as we returned home, we started dreaming about our next trip. [...]
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Speakeasy's Photos - (Main)
3 Photos
Created 1 March 2016
For our newest pictures, please look on the right hand side of our page under FAVOURITES and click on "2015+ Photo Gallery". This will take you to Flickr where we now store all of our photos.
No Photos
Created 19 April 2015
Yelapa is a small village on the South shore of Banderas Bay, near Puerto Vallarta. Unless you own a hummer, is only accessible by boat which gives it a nice laid back vibe
10 Photos
Created 20 March 2015
Our furthest South point this year.
13 Photos
Created 20 March 2015
Manzanillo is a huge commercial port between Puerto Vallarta and Zihuatanejo. Not that much tourism here which makes it a very authentic Mexican city
5 Photos
Created 20 March 2015
Pictures from Tenacatita and a few other anchorages in the area.
17 Photos
Created 20 March 2015
A few pictures from our Christmas visit to Barra & Melaque
11 Photos
Created 19 January 2015
A quick visit to the small fishing village of Chamela
5 Photos
Created 28 December 2014
Isla Isabella is an island about 20 miles offshore Mexico, between Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta. it is a nesting ground for a number of sea birds and has been the subject of several documentaries. The birds and lizards on the island have no fear of humans.
26 Photos
Created 16 December 2014
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Created 16 December 2014
9 Photos
Created 16 December 2014
From Bahia Santa Maria to Cabo San Lucas
15 Photos
Created 14 November 2014
Sailing from Turtle Bay to Bahia Santa Maria, Mexico
12 Photos
Created 14 November 2014
We participated in the rally again this year. Here are a few pics from the pre-start party, the start, and the first leg to Turtle Bay, Mexico. Credit to Dave Tolman for most of the pictures.
25 Photos
Created 12 November 2014
We spend the better part of a week first in Catalina Harbor and then in the opposite side of the isthmus in Two Harbors
7 Photos
Created 17 October 2014
Our time in the big city
4 Photos
Created 17 October 2014
A few pics from our brief stop in this richie rich tourist town
4 Photos
Created 17 October 2014
Morro Bay, California
15 Photos
Created 2 October 2014
11 Photos
Created 25 September 2014
Big waves at Morro Bay from a low pressure system that rolled through North of us
10 Photos
Created 25 September 2014
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Created 25 September 2014
Our side trip to the Delta and Sacramento from the San Francisco Bay
27 Photos
Created 9 September 2014
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Created 21 August 2014
27 Photos
Created 21 July 2014
Prior to our departure, we hauled out at Canoe Cove, BC, Canada.
13 Photos
Created 26 June 2014
"Speakeasy" is a 2007 Manta 42 MKIV Catamaran. We purchased her in 2013 from the original owners. Manta's come fairly well equipped from the factory for offshore cruising. We will be adding the rest of the necessary equipment.
23 Photos
Created 10 February 2013
1 Photo | 2 Sub-Albums
Created 15 May 2011
1 Photo | 15 Sub-Albums
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1 Photo | 9 Sub-Albums
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1 Photo | 2 Sub-Albums
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25 Photos
Created 1 December 2006
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Created 1 December 2006

Speakeasy - Manta 42 Catamaran

Who: Mark & Deanna Roozendaal
Port: Victoria, BC, Canada

Where are Mark & Deanna?