Speakeasy, Over The Horizon

The Voyages of Mark & Deanna Roozendaal

24 November 2016 | 26 41.15'S:153 7.72'E, Mooloolaba, Australia
13 November 2016 | 25 54.12'S:153 01.72'E, Tin Can Bay, Australia
12 November 2016 | 25 31.69'S:152 57.91'E, Fraser Island, Australia
31 October 2016 | 24 45.38'S:152 23.72'E, Bundaberg, Australia
30 October 2016 | 23 52'S:153 55'E, On Passage - Noumea, New Caledonia to Bundaberg, Australia
29 October 2016 | 23 28'S:156 47'E, On Passage - Noumea, New Caledonia to Bundaberg, Australia
28 October 2016 | 22 57'S:159 54'E, On Passage - Noumea, New Caledonia to Bundaberg, Australia
27 October 2016 | 22 40'S:163 13'E, On Passage - Noumea to Australia
26 October 2016 | 22 22'S:166 10'E, On Passage - Noumea to Australia
18 October 2016 | 22 16.60'S:166 26.40'E, Noumea, New Caledonia
17 October 2016 | 21 37'S:168 13'E, between Vanuatu and New Caledonia
14 October 2016 | 19 31.57'S:169 26.66'E, Port Resolution, Tanna I, Vanuatu
14 October 2016 | 19 31.57'S:169 26.66'E, Port Resolution, Tanna I, Vanuatu
14 October 2016 | 19 31.90'S:169 26.98'E, Mt. Yasur, Tanna I, Vanuatu
12 October 2016 | 19 31.58'S:169 29.65'E, Port Resolution, Vanuatu
09 October 2016 | 20 14.36'S:169 46.63'E, Aneityum, Vanuatu
03 October 2016 | 20 14.36'S:169 46.63'E, Aneityum, Vanuatu
02 October 2016 | 19 39'S:172 03'E, On Passage from Fiji to Vanuatu
01 October 2016 | 18 43'S:174 16'E, On Passage from Fiji to Vanuatu
27 September 2016 | 17 40.88'S:177 23.16'E, Vuda Marina, Fiji

Laiza and Snack Hirifa

06 June 2016 | 15 48.18'S:146 09.06'W, Anse Amyot, Toau, Tuamotus
Deanna
Our friend Rose, who sailed throughout the South Pacific last year, recommended that we visit a wonderful lady named Laiza who runs a little snack bar on the beach. Thank you, Rose! I'm so glad we took your advice. When we think back to the Tuamotus, we'll always remember Laiza's warm, welcoming and fun loving personality. What an experience!

Laiza, pronounced like Liza Minelli, and her husband Toria run a little beachfront snack bar at Hirifa. Now, let me set the scene. We'd just spent four nights in the South Pass anchorage, where food was unavailable to us at the restaurant of the rustic dive resort. To be honest, we felt unwelcome. However, with Hirifa's even more remote location and only a couple families living there, we kept our expectations down.

What we found was a welcoming haven in paradise! Laiza greeted us on her beach with big hugs and kisses on both cheeks, and her warmth and generosity just kept going after that. We shared stories about 2015 sailors we knew who'd left their burgees, t-shirts and photos on the walls of her restaurant. With a twinkle in her eye and a deep belly laugh, she told us about the parties she'd hosted, and she acted out charming impressions of yachtees from different parts of the world. The ultimate hostess, Laiza made it clear that she loves people, and she hoped we'd spend time at her restaurant, and on her beach and property.

Our dinners at Snack Hirifa were a treat. With flowers in her hair, Laiza dressed as brightly as the tropical colored tablecloth and napkins set for just us. A fresh flower centerpiece set the stage for the dinner table just a few feet from the ocean. Chilled coconut water served in the shells, an appetizer of deep fried grouper and parrot fish, bbq steak/chicken/fish, frites with roquefort dressing, and coconut cake for dessert - these weren't low calorie meals, but after all my healthy cooking onboard, it was just what we craved. And the company of our cruiser friends from Moonshadow, Nauti-Nauti, Carola, and Cartago, as well as Laiza and Toria, made for two memorable evenings.

What I will cherish most about our time at Haifa, however, was my time with Laiza, her animals and her coconuts. We enjoyed her under-foot and affectionate restaurant tabby and chief rat hunter named "Meow." Also, one of the white sister cats gave birth to two kittens just a week ago, and Laiza allowed me many visits to the secret nest. It was a first for me to hold a newborn kitten which had not yet opened her eyes.

And Laiza's pigs! At first, I wasn't interested in these grunting, wiry haired creatures. However, when they followed Mark and I as we walked along Laiza's sandy beach, I remembered why I had a childhood love for a piglet on my Uncle Arnold's farm. About six small auburn pigs stayed with us, like dogs. Moreover, the pigs charmed us by vying for our affection at the ocean's edge. I petted the head of a tiny one, and she seemed to purr as I stroked her forehead between the nose. Other pigs wanted the same treatment, and I started to understand why Laiza kept these creatures as pets. All her animals enjoy a diet of fish, chicken, steak and coconuts, and it's clear to me that they are tame and happy.

Finally, my favorite experience was my morning with Laiza learning about copra, coconuts, and the coconut palm. The production of copra, the dry residue of the white substance lining the coconut, is an essential economic activity on most of the islands and atolls in French Polynesia. Rich in vegetable fat, copra is regularly collected by schooners and taken to Papeete, where it is refined as oil and sold to the food and cosmetics industries. Laiza said that four large coconuts will yield about two dollars worth of copra, and this is how many families make their livings. Certainly, throughout our time in the Marquesas and the Tuamotus, we've seen many fallen coconuts, husks, half-nuts and coconut shavings placed on racks to dry in the sun. Laiza helped me to understand that each is a stage in the coconut to copra process.

Laiza praised the coconut for it's many other uses as well. Along with the wood in her tables and palm fronds covering her walls, the coconut palm and its fruit provides different tastes and textures at different stages of life. From within the young green coconut, I sampled sweet light coconut water. With a mid-aged coconut, Laiza used her industrial size shredding machine to shred he sweet meat, which she then pressed into a cup of delicious cream. Old brown coconuts provided the usual white meat, and also a spongy ball in the centre which was surprisingly sweet and delicious. The most interesting taste was heart of the coconut palm, taken from the stalk of a young coconut tree - this tasted something like asparagus or the white inner stalk of broccoli.

I went home with my arms laden with coconuts, with new knowledge about life on the Tuamotus, and with a full heart. Laiza stated that sharing her life and her culture is her real passion, and I am thankful that she chose to share so much with me. Now, we've left Fakarava and we're at our last Tuamotu atoll, called Toau. We tied to a mooring buoy in Anse Anyot, which is where Laiza's sister and brother-in-law, Valentine and Gaston, run a little restaurant perched over the water. If these two sisters are anything alike, there will be more fun to enjoy onshore.
Comments
Vessel Name: Speakeasy
Vessel Make/Model: 2007 Manta IV 42' Catamaran
Hailing Port: Victoria, BC, Canada
Crew: Mark & Deanna Roozendaal
About:
In 2005 we were lucky enough to be able to take a one year sabbatical where we sailed from Victoria BC to Mexico and Hawaii in our Catalina 42. We had a fantastic time! As soon as we returned home, we started dreaming about our next trip. [...]
Social:
Speakeasy's Photos - (Main)
3 Photos
Created 1 March 2016
For our newest pictures, please look on the right hand side of our page under FAVOURITES and click on "2015+ Photo Gallery". This will take you to Flickr where we now store all of our photos.
No Photos
Created 19 April 2015
Yelapa is a small village on the South shore of Banderas Bay, near Puerto Vallarta. Unless you own a hummer, is only accessible by boat which gives it a nice laid back vibe
10 Photos
Created 20 March 2015
Our furthest South point this year.
13 Photos
Created 20 March 2015
Manzanillo is a huge commercial port between Puerto Vallarta and Zihuatanejo. Not that much tourism here which makes it a very authentic Mexican city
5 Photos
Created 20 March 2015
Pictures from Tenacatita and a few other anchorages in the area.
17 Photos
Created 20 March 2015
A few pictures from our Christmas visit to Barra & Melaque
11 Photos
Created 19 January 2015
A quick visit to the small fishing village of Chamela
5 Photos
Created 28 December 2014
Isla Isabella is an island about 20 miles offshore Mexico, between Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta. it is a nesting ground for a number of sea birds and has been the subject of several documentaries. The birds and lizards on the island have no fear of humans.
26 Photos
Created 16 December 2014
13 Photos
Created 16 December 2014
9 Photos
Created 16 December 2014
From Bahia Santa Maria to Cabo San Lucas
15 Photos
Created 14 November 2014
Sailing from Turtle Bay to Bahia Santa Maria, Mexico
12 Photos
Created 14 November 2014
We participated in the rally again this year. Here are a few pics from the pre-start party, the start, and the first leg to Turtle Bay, Mexico. Credit to Dave Tolman for most of the pictures.
25 Photos
Created 12 November 2014
We spend the better part of a week first in Catalina Harbor and then in the opposite side of the isthmus in Two Harbors
7 Photos
Created 17 October 2014
Our time in the big city
4 Photos
Created 17 October 2014
A few pics from our brief stop in this richie rich tourist town
4 Photos
Created 17 October 2014
Morro Bay, California
15 Photos
Created 2 October 2014
11 Photos
Created 25 September 2014
Big waves at Morro Bay from a low pressure system that rolled through North of us
10 Photos
Created 25 September 2014
7 Photos
Created 25 September 2014
Our side trip to the Delta and Sacramento from the San Francisco Bay
27 Photos
Created 9 September 2014
20 Photos
Created 21 August 2014
27 Photos
Created 21 July 2014
Prior to our departure, we hauled out at Canoe Cove, BC, Canada.
13 Photos
Created 26 June 2014
"Speakeasy" is a 2007 Manta 42 MKIV Catamaran. We purchased her in 2013 from the original owners. Manta's come fairly well equipped from the factory for offshore cruising. We will be adding the rest of the necessary equipment.
23 Photos
Created 10 February 2013
1 Photo | 2 Sub-Albums
Created 15 May 2011
1 Photo | 15 Sub-Albums
Created 1 December 2006
1 Photo | 9 Sub-Albums
Created 1 December 2006
1 Photo | 2 Sub-Albums
Created 1 December 2006
25 Photos
Created 1 December 2006
1 Photo | 5 Sub-Albums
Created 1 December 2006

Speakeasy - Manta 42 Catamaran

Who: Mark & Deanna Roozendaal
Port: Victoria, BC, Canada

Where are Mark & Deanna?