Killkenny Creek to Beaufort, SC
June 3, 2011
It is just past midnight as the rain and lightening dance about the skies. The events of yesterday, barely three minutes expired, are still fresh as we think back on the evolution of a day on the AICW. Killkenny Creek is a popular stop, albeit it only the intersection of the ditch and a creek with a restaurant and fuel stop at the other end. We chose to anchor, last night just off the ditch rather than make the trek up the creek (since we had not paddles---- sorry). Another sail boat arrived just before dusk so we shared the spot. It was a good anchorage.
We awoke at first light ready to get underway. I still had to fuel the boat from the cans we carry on deck so we did not leave as early as we wanted. Still, we were away from the anchorage around 0700. We took some extra time to attempt to clean the anchor chain and anchor of the primordial ooze the was sticking to them but that was only marginally successful. I keep thinking I am going to install a wash down system aboard. The old bucket over the side thing does not really work well. We actually shipped several tiny crabs with that chain but I did not want to take the time to remove them from the locker. Besides that, we are fresh out of boat pets. There are ways for them to escape that locker.
As mentioned before, the trip along the AICW takes one through several sounds with name like St. Catherines, Port Royal, Cumberland, etc. Typically, the AICW enters through some river opening to the west in the sound and exits to the north in the easternmost part. That usually means a few miles of relatively open, shallow water to transit. Over the past few days, those shallow water transits have been lively. Yesterday was no exception as we took as much spray aboard as we did crossing he Gulf Stream. Since leaving Fernandina Beach, we have met and traveled generally identical schedules with several boats. We might be might not see them for a few days but sooner or later we do.
Starting in Killkenny Creek with Hilton Head as the initial stopping point we made our way past Savannah and into South Carolina by noon. It was hot and the horse flies were now trained to catch a bite quickly. Mind you, they do not attack Bear, just me. Could that be payback for all the mischief of the past? She sits in the cockpit taking naps while I do battle with those critters. I may have to zip the pants legs in my whippy dippy convertible shorts because the old ankles are starting to disappear. As we approached Hilton Head we decided it was too early to stop. Beaufort was less than thirty nautical miles up the coast. That is thirty miles straight line. It took just over four hours to wind our way through the marshlands of South Carolina. We arrived at exactly 1700 and decided to take a slip so that we could "clean the cage and unship all those deceased horseflies. Really, the boat was a mess covered with salt crystals from the two days to get here.
It is difficult to relate the beauty of the Low Country. The marshes, rivers and sounds are spectacular and so very significant historically. Pirates, patriots and loyalists have used these waters and there is evidence everywhere of their having done so. Hilton Head approached from the water does not reveal the tee shirt shops whereas Beaufort does give one a glimpse of what could be seen in the 18th and 19th centuries. The first visitors to the Beaufort waterfront, then most likely as swamp adjacent to the river, stepped ashore in 1520. As a naturally protected waterfront, this must have been a great layover except for perhaps some Native Americans and those darn horseflies. Ah, they might have noticed the latter because they wore long pants and shirts. Besides that they might have had a rather ripe aroma. No, wait. That did not help us.
To our Marine friends, we wanted to mention the fact that we sailed past Parris Island. What a lovely place from sea. Nice thick trees with picturesque beaches and even the US Coast Guard protecting the waters around the lovely island is what we saw. We did not see a single Marine about the base, not one person doing pushups. Maybe it was nap time, or choir practice or perhaps all the imbedded camera persons were at lunch. Anyway, from what we saw, we now know why most Parris Island Marines speak so highly of the place.
After a short stay here in Beaufort it is on to Charleston, the northernmost point of our cruise so far. We will stop there for a short visit and then the "what's around the corner" adventure continues. The rain has stopped and it is back to the rack with me.

The picture is of the AICW just south of the Sanannah River.