Around the world with S/V Zephyr

The adventures of Bill & Tracy as they fulfill their lifes dream of sailing the world. We've dreamed of this for years and now is the time while the health is still good and there is money in the kitty to make it come true.

24 April 2018 | Marina Fonatur, Santa Rosalia
22 April 2018 | Punta Chivato
22 April 2018 | Leaving Concepcion Bay
19 April 2018 | 26 45.468N:-111 53.520W
19 April 2018 | 26 45.468N:-111 53.520W
19 April 2018 | 26 45.468N:-111 53.520W
16 April 2018 | 26 22.928N:-111 25.871W
16 April 2018 | 26 22.928N:-111 25.871W
16 April 2018 | 26 22.928N:-111 25.871W
16 April 2018 | On passage
16 April 2018 | On passage
16 April 2018 | On passage
16 April 2018 | On passage
16 April 2018 | On passage
16 April 2018 | On passage
15 April 2018 | Puerto Escondido Marina, Sea of Cortez
13 April 2018 | Puerto Escondido Marina, Sea of Cortez
10 April 2018 | 25 49.555N:-111 18.804W
10 April 2018 | 25 49.555N:-111 18.804W
10 April 2018 | 25 49.555N:-111 18.804W

Into Santa Rosalia

24 April 2018 | Marina Fonatur, Santa Rosalia
Bill/Sunny and hot
We are now tied up to the docks at Santa Rosalia after another easy ride of 27 miles from Punta Chivato and it's huge piles of shells. We pulled up our anchor and set off just after 0800 and I happened to have wifi and could make a call to straighten out a problem back in the US. First I had to figure out how to call the US, never having done so. It took a while but I got it accomplished once I figured out the country codes. Only problem was that I got disconnected and could never get back with them but in the conversation I had with them, they fixed my problem and we could get under way.
We skirted the outside of Isla San Marcos instead of going through a channel between the island and shore to avoid the shoals that are between the island and shore. We could have gone between but it was only a mile farther going around then between and a bit safer. We repeatedly tried calling the marina here but there was no answer and reception with VHF was also poor till we were within a couple of miles where I could ask for a slip. In the end, we got the last slip and it's actually out at the end of the docks with nothing other than the harbor outside us. As each panga passes loaded with fishermen go out, we are rocked in their wakes. No such thing as a "no wake" zone here. As heavy as we are, it's not really a problem.
We went out with a couple off Pincoya, a boat we came up the Sea with since leaving Puerto Escondido though never meeting till yesterday and had dinner at a local restaurant, Gene and Gloria have been around for a while and have explored the Sea of Cortez for several years.
Yesterday, while checking in, we mentioned to he marina manager that we needed water and he made arrangements to have it delivered as the water at this marina is not potable(not really drinkable). It comes in 5 gallon jugs so we ordered in 16 of them and it filled most of our tanks to about 4/5 full which will hold us for a while. The delivery man showed up about an hour after we checked in so it was nice getting that job out of the way. We will be getting diesel tomorrow before we set off for San Carlos. The plan at this point is to go to Isla Tortuga(about 20 miles)and spend the night and then head on Thursday for San Carlos and then up the east coast of the Sea of Cortez. Past Santa Rosalia, there isn't much protection from north winds and with what we have seen and heard, it's all that's in the forecasts. Normally by now, the northers would have ended and we'd be having more southerly blows but not this year for some reason. We do what we have to to get where we need to. The winds for Thursday are supposed to be out of the northwest so it will help us do some sailing(we hope) for a change. It will be nice to actually do what Zephyr is meant to do--sail, instead of motoring. It's been a long haul of just about endless motoring since leaving Panama back in December.
There is a bit of wind due by the weekend so we will be staying in San Carlos for a couple of days before heading out again, ever northward for Puerto Penasco and out haul out.
As we moved northward yesterday we were greeted by a big pod of dolphins as they made their way south, making jumps and spinning in the air as they passed us seemingly going as fast as they could. It made a huge disturbance in the water as they passed us. About an hour later, as I sat in the cockpit, we were greeted by a hug whale as we passed him as he also headed north, just off our port side, about 40 feet as he broke the surface. A majestic creature to watch as it swam along beside us till we passed him by. Probably not a smart thing to disturb a whale as he swims by your boat. Tons of pelicans and other sea birds all screaming at each other and the pelican diving into the water in search of their next meal. The water this far up the sea is remarkably clear and easy to see a ways down plus there is next to no growth on our anchor when we pull it up and that's great to see after the messes we've run into around the world when you pull up your anchor.
Time to head out for some shopping at the Ley market in town and pick up some more tortillas. We are running low and in Mexico, that's just not a good thing.

Punta Chivato

22 April 2018 | Punta Chivato
Bill/sunny and warm
By lunch, we were approaching Punta Chivato after an easy ride. No wind of course but we took it in stride. After lunch, we headed for shore to visit one of the best beaches for shelling we have ever seen. Over a mile long and from what it looks like, a foot deep in some places, were thousands of shells. We wandered up and down the beach adding some to our collection before heading back to Zephyr. It's finally getting hot here. About time. Tomorrow, into Santa Rosalia.

On the way to Punta Chivato

22 April 2018 | Leaving Concepcion Bay
Bill/sunny and calm
Got under way this morning at 0715 and heading the 25 miles with no head wind. Just a quick post as internet comes and goes out here.
More after we arrive.

Odd jobs and lunch

19 April 2018 | 26 45.468N:-111 53.520W
We're still sitting here in Concepcion Bay up the Sea of Cortez waiting out another day of mid teens wind from the northwest. It started up late this morning and is expected to be in the high teens by afternoon and slowing up over night so we can get out of here tomorrow and head up to Punta Chivato, about 20 miles northwest of here. Our guide book says there is a wonderful shell beach good for exploring and there is some protection from north winds should they come up. An easy hop but with no south winds, it looks like another motor day.

I had to replace the cord that connects our computer to the ICOM 802 Pactor Modem as rust had consumed the USB end that plugs into the computer bad enough that sometimes the connection worked and sometimes not. Got me a tad frustrated after a while. Pulled out the cord that goes to our printer and it seemed to work fine but found a shorter one later. Now we can make connections when the weather permits it. With no internet here, it's our source for weather files and forecast. They get updated every 6 hours so I connect regularly to get any new info on the GRIB files.

One of the support beams under the cabin sole has come loose and required some shoring up so I drove a wedge under the support and it should be fine till we get to port where I can get a properly shaped chunk of wood and epoxy it in to support the beams. It's been slipping for a while and just needs some banging to get it back in place with a wedge.

As for lunch today, we are having another of the "5 can surprises" Tracy goes through the larder and finds different cans that will go together and then mixes and heats them up. With that many cans, it's good for several meals and since we want to get our supplies down before we put Zephyr in storage(first time since 2009), we have lots to go through. Today we have a combo of:Ministrone soup, kidney beans, chick peas, green chili, Italian stewed tomatoes, and a can of Cannellini beans that have gone around the world with us. Add in Basil, oregano, garlic, cumin,and crushed red peppers to put some awesome zip to it and there you have it. Normally five cans and five spices but we added the can of Cannellini since it was so old. This should give us enough meals for several dinners and empty out more from the larder.

I have already checked all the fluids in the engine so we will be ready to go tomorrow as soon as we get up(weather permitting). This afternoon, probably another game of Mexican Train dominoes and maybe another small job or two.

And the winds came.

19 April 2018 | 26 45.468N:-111 53.520W
Sure glad we made it in to Concepcion Bay yesterday afternoon as it's blowing nicely through the bay and I'm sure much harder outside in the Sea Of Cortez. The boats that chose to anchor in Santispac, just to the east of us are getting nailed much harder with the winds than we are as we have a hill right in front of where we are and they have a semi flat land in front of them allowing the winds and gusts to smack into them. Out wind generator is spinning nicely and making a few volts but we will still have to run the generator later to top us off for the night. Winds are forecast to be in the mid teens all day with gusts into the twenties. We have this part of the bay to ourselves so far and with the winds outside, I doubt that any boats will come in from the south and I'm guessing the swells out there are impressive. It's cloudy and cool and we have most of the hatches closed and just the portlights open for some air. We had to keep the screens in yesterday afternoon as the fly population is quite large here and the yare being a pest and even the kids are trying to catch them. Today with the winds, they aren't coming out to see us. Looking out into the bay from here, there are big swells running from the north right down the bay. Glad we came when we did.

Late last night, I had another bout with vertigo. Not bad but it still lingers as of this morning. Just not sure of the cause. The first time I had it was after having a "Pain Killer"(mixture of Rum, pineapple juice and orange juice). Just one but an hour or so later, I got nailed by the vertigo. Tracy gave me the "Eply Maneuver" and I was a bit better but by the next day I seemed fine, at least till I had another "Pain Killer" a day later. It was back an hour or so later and again lasted through the next day. I've been fine ever since though being careful as I walk around the boat. On land, no problems. Last night, I had A beer and an hour or so later, it was back. Not bad but back none the less. I've go a headache today and have tried some Ibuprofen for all the good it does. Hopefully the headache will go away soon. A bit bothersome. Is the cause of this a sudden aversion to alcohol or is it a virus(suggested by a nurse/cruiser) or is my inner ear just screwed up? No clue but I'm going to refrain from what little alcohol I drink for a while. We will see what happens.

We plan on exploring the rest of Concepcion over the next couple of days and then heading up farther north in the sea.

Into Bahia Concepcion

19 April 2018 | 26 45.468N:-111 53.520W
We were up nice and early this morning just before sunrise and pulling up the anchor before 0700 and underway. The motor, of course< was doing it's job as there was no wind to help us along. We had a good 50+ miles to cover today and that's a long trip by Baja standards. A couple of the boats that had been in the anchorage with us had already left and we have no idea when. Firefly was gone sometime early in the night as we never saw an anchor light from his boat. We rounded the point just off San Juanico to calm water and headed northwest along the shoreline. As we headed north, we happened upon a wrecked sailboat along the shoreline up on the rocks. It looked like a trimaran since it had arms coming off it's side. Yellow hull with blue bottom paint. No clue how long it had been there. You hate to see other boats come to an end that way. We headed northwest along the shore seeing the occasional pod of dolphins but even they were few and far between. We are getting to the area of the Sea of Cortez that many boaters never come to as seems to be as far north as most will ever go. It's as far north as we went back in 2010.. This time, we are heading much farther north to the end of the Sea. We will be pulling Zephyr from the water at the far end so it's closer to the US and a much shorter drive from Denver when we come back. We still have to go to San Diego to get our replacement dinghy sometime this Summer. Going to be interesting hauling a dinghy back on the top of our car. We are now anchored in Posada Concepcion and have the place to ourselves as most of the boats stopped at Playa Santispac, a mile or so east of where we are. Seven boats stopped there and dropped their anchors. We didn't want to be in a crowd so we headed just a bit farther west and dropped our anchor. Winds are forecast from the northwest tomorrow and we got some of them late this afternoon just as we were about to make the turn into Concepcion Bay. It's piped up to the mid teens and right on our stern. Depths under us were continually going up and down, from 50 feet to 7 feet, It was strange as there was nothing in the charts from the 1870s telling us to expect this. Yes, the 1870s are about the newest charts for where we are so we will be watching our depth sounder for much of the rest of our trips up here. We will probably be here just a few days before heading back out. as we have to move when the weather lets us. We had internet when we arrived over at Playa Santispac but it's not working where we are so it's back to the SSB to get this posted . We should have internet over the next few days so I can post some more photos.
Vessel Name: Zephyr
Vessel Make/Model: Shin Fa 458
Hailing Port: Denver, Colorado
Crew: Bill & Tracy Hudson
About: We've been sailing since the early 80's on lakes in New Mexico and Colorado and finally took the plunge and bought Zephyr.
We moved on board in April of 2008 and have been working and sailing her ever since. Up to Alaska and down to Mexico and across the Pacific to Fiji. From Fiji to the Philippines and down to South Africa for Christmas 2015. We've now made it to the Caribbean and through the Panama Canal. With [...]
Home Page: http::/
Zephyr's Photos - Puerto Escondido North to Bahia Concepcion
Photos 1 to 47 of 47 | Main
The narrow entrance to Puerto Escondido.  It
A closer picture of the "Waiting Room" outside Puerto Escondido.
The "Waiting Room outside Puerto Escondido.
Approaching Puerto Escondido.
The mountains beside Puerto Escondido
Boats on moorings at Escondido.
More mountains west of Puerto Escondido.
The mountains Southwest of Escondido.
Bill going up the mast.  It gets easier the more times you do it.
A squall on the horizon.  It was going away from us.
Isla Carmen outside Puerto Escondido.
Playa Mangles
Looking down the path towards La Ramada.
A cove near La Ramada North of San Juanico.
Flatlands at the entrance to La Ramada cove.  It
This is the group we hiked with to La Ramada.  You make friends quickly when you are out cruising.
The beach at La Ramada.
The rocky shoreline heading out to the point at La Ramada.
Looking for lunch in all the wrong places.  Lots of Turkey Buzzards around here.
Looking back along the beach at La Ramada.
Looking down on the "Lump" with several boat at anchor in San Juanico.
Moon rise at San Juanico.
The spires at San Juanico.
The tide is out at San Juanico.  We had a long way to carry poor Puff and Dragon.
The West beach at San Juanico.
Some of the reefs along the South entrance to San Juanico.  Far more lie just below the surface.
The "Spires" and the "Saddle Rock" at San Juanico.
If you look closely, you can see the houses on the hillside at San Juanico.
Another picture of the "Lump" at San Juanico.
the Gigante Mountain range.
Punta Aguja at the entrance to Bahia Concepcion.  It even has a light.
Looking North from Playa Santa Barbara
the beach at Playa Santa Barbara.
Puff in the sling on the way North to Playa Concepcion.
Looking back at Playa Santa Barbara.
Isla Guapa in Bahia Concepcion.
A different view of Isla Guapa.(looking South)
The deserted cove on Isla Coyote.  Not really so deserted we found.
Tecomate just outside Playa Santa Barbara in Bahia Concepcion.
A clam day looking North from Playa Santa Barbara.
The tents on Playa Santa Barbara.  BIG tents.
Playa Concepcion.
Isla San Ramon outside of Playa Concepcion.
Playa El Burro with Highway 1 running up the hillside.
Playa Santipac.  The biggest cove in Bahia Concepcion.
Looking South at Isla Carmen on a cloudy day on the way back to Escondido.
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