Around the world with S/V Zephyr

The adventures of Bill & Tracy as they fulfill their lifes dream of sailing the world. We've dreamed of this for years and now is the time while the health is still good and there is money in the kitty to make it come true.

19 April 2018 | 26 45.468N:-111 53.520W
19 April 2018 | 26 45.468N:-111 53.520W
16 April 2018 | 26 22.928N:-111 25.871W
16 April 2018 | 26 22.928N:-111 25.871W
16 April 2018 | 26 22.928N:-111 25.871W
16 April 2018 | On passage
16 April 2018 | On passage
16 April 2018 | On passage
16 April 2018 | On passage
16 April 2018 | On passage
16 April 2018 | On passage
15 April 2018 | Puerto Escondido Marina, Sea of Cortez
13 April 2018 | Puerto Escondido Marina, Sea of Cortez
10 April 2018 | 25 49.555N:-111 18.804W
10 April 2018 | 25 49.555N:-111 18.804W
10 April 2018 | 25 49.555N:-111 18.804W
10 April 2018 | 25 49.555N:-111 18.804W
10 April 2018 | 25 49.555N:-111 18.804W
06 April 2018 | 25 42.410N:-111 12.954W
06 April 2018 | 25 42.410N:-111 12.954W

And the winds came.

19 April 2018 | 26 45.468N:-111 53.520W
Sure glad we made it in to Concepcion Bay yesterday afternoon as it's blowing nicely through the bay and I'm sure much harder outside in the Sea Of Cortez. The boats that chose to anchor in Santispac, just to the east of us are getting nailed much harder with the winds than we are as we have a hill right in front of where we are and they have a semi flat land in front of them allowing the winds and gusts to smack into them. Out wind generator is spinning nicely and making a few volts but we will still have to run the generator later to top us off for the night. Winds are forecast to be in the mid teens all day with gusts into the twenties. We have this part of the bay to ourselves so far and with the winds outside, I doubt that any boats will come in from the south and I'm guessing the swells out there are impressive. It's cloudy and cool and we have most of the hatches closed and just the portlights open for some air. We had to keep the screens in yesterday afternoon as the fly population is quite large here and the yare being a pest and even the kids are trying to catch them. Today with the winds, they aren't coming out to see us. Looking out into the bay from here, there are big swells running from the north right down the bay. Glad we came when we did.

Late last night, I had another bout with vertigo. Not bad but it still lingers as of this morning. Just not sure of the cause. The first time I had it was after having a "Pain Killer"(mixture of Rum, pineapple juice and orange juice). Just one but an hour or so later, I got nailed by the vertigo. Tracy gave me the "Eply Maneuver" and I was a bit better but by the next day I seemed fine, at least till I had another "Pain Killer" a day later. It was back an hour or so later and again lasted through the next day. I've been fine ever since though being careful as I walk around the boat. On land, no problems. Last night, I had A beer and an hour or so later, it was back. Not bad but back none the less. I've go a headache today and have tried some Ibuprofen for all the good it does. Hopefully the headache will go away soon. A bit bothersome. Is the cause of this a sudden aversion to alcohol or is it a virus(suggested by a nurse/cruiser) or is my inner ear just screwed up? No clue but I'm going to refrain from what little alcohol I drink for a while. We will see what happens.

We plan on exploring the rest of Concepcion over the next couple of days and then heading up farther north in the sea.

Into Bahia Concepcion

19 April 2018 | 26 45.468N:-111 53.520W
We were up nice and early this morning just before sunrise and pulling up the anchor before 0700 and underway. The motor, of course< was doing it's job as there was no wind to help us along. We had a good 50+ miles to cover today and that's a long trip by Baja standards. A couple of the boats that had been in the anchorage with us had already left and we have no idea when. Firefly was gone sometime early in the night as we never saw an anchor light from his boat. We rounded the point just off San Juanico to calm water and headed northwest along the shoreline. As we headed north, we happened upon a wrecked sailboat along the shoreline up on the rocks. It looked like a trimaran since it had arms coming off it's side. Yellow hull with blue bottom paint. No clue how long it had been there. You hate to see other boats come to an end that way. We headed northwest along the shore seeing the occasional pod of dolphins but even they were few and far between. We are getting to the area of the Sea of Cortez that many boaters never come to as seems to be as far north as most will ever go. It's as far north as we went back in 2010.. This time, we are heading much farther north to the end of the Sea. We will be pulling Zephyr from the water at the far end so it's closer to the US and a much shorter drive from Denver when we come back. We still have to go to San Diego to get our replacement dinghy sometime this Summer. Going to be interesting hauling a dinghy back on the top of our car. We are now anchored in Posada Concepcion and have the place to ourselves as most of the boats stopped at Playa Santispac, a mile or so east of where we are. Seven boats stopped there and dropped their anchors. We didn't want to be in a crowd so we headed just a bit farther west and dropped our anchor. Winds are forecast from the northwest tomorrow and we got some of them late this afternoon just as we were about to make the turn into Concepcion Bay. It's piped up to the mid teens and right on our stern. Depths under us were continually going up and down, from 50 feet to 7 feet, It was strange as there was nothing in the charts from the 1870s telling us to expect this. Yes, the 1870s are about the newest charts for where we are so we will be watching our depth sounder for much of the rest of our trips up here. We will probably be here just a few days before heading back out. as we have to move when the weather lets us. We had internet when we arrived over at Playa Santispac but it's not working where we are so it's back to the SSB to get this posted . We should have internet over the next few days so I can post some more photos.

Boats leaving the anchorage.

16 April 2018 | 26 22.928N:-111 25.871W
Yesterday as the sun went down, we had 13 boats here in the anchorage with the forecast for more winds early today and then dropping off this afternoon. By just after sun up three boats were gone. by noon, 6 more had left and we were down to just four boats, all tucked up in the north anchorage. As the afternoon progressed, the wind started growing and are now in the low teens with lots of whitecaps coming down the sea. We watched as one sailboat headed out about mid morning and as they went around the cape, they got hit by the big swells and bucked all over the place with the bow going up and down in the swell. Not nice way to move. Some of the boats headed north(sail boats) and some headed south(power boats). The power boats were headed back to Puerto Escondido and why, we have no idea other than they just wanted to go back there. Three took off with in an hour or so of each other. As for the sailboats, they wanted to make it to Pulpito, as small crook in the shoreline that would offer some protection from the north winds. Instead of them slacking off, they just got bigger and our wind generator is spinning nicely on the stern making some volts for the batteries. Supposedly, by tomorrow, the winds are doe to slcken a bit and we will be off the the 50 mile shot to Conception Bay farther up the north coast. Again, we have been there before and had a nice time(other than when I ate clams and got sick--allergic). Lots of nice protection for everyone with anchorage on both sides of the long narrow bay. Heck, we might even have internet for a change. Lots of people live along the coast so they should have cell phone coverage. We just had a power boat come in(Angels Pearl) from the south and drop anchor off our port bow in sort of shallow water and pull back and set their anchor. Earlier in the morning, we headed into shore to get rid of trash and take a hike over to La Ramada to show another cruiser(Bob off Nightfly) where we had spent Monday night while he was anchored in San Juanico in the wind and swells. He agreed we had made the best choice going over there. There is a "Cruisers Shrine" tree on the shore here in San Juanico full of talismans from previous boats. We'd left one when we were here back in 2010 and it has long since vanished so we hung up another. I'll post of picture of it when we get internet. Hundred of boards, shells, stones and even a bottle or two hanging from this tree in the middle of nowhere covered with the names of hundreds of previous boats. During our hike over to La Ramada, I picked up some of the "Apache Tears", small pieces of obsidian from a long dead volcano that littler the dirt and sand along the past/roadway. Legend has it that as the Apaches were about to be defeated in battle, they threw themselves off a cliff, rather than be caught. Their widows tears turned to stone as they cried after they found out about their husbands. Some are as small as peas and some as large as small nuts. I picked up some to replace the one I lost years ago in Antigua when my pants got washed and it was left in the pocket. Tomorrow, we should be off early(about 0630 and heading north for Conception. At least that's the plan unless the winds and swells keep running. No reason to rush unless we have to. Meanwhile, enjoy the sun and stay out of the winds..

It's like litle Puerto Escondido

16 April 2018 | 26 22.928N:-111 25.871W
We left on Monday and so did apparently a few other boats to head north while the winds and waves approved. As we got to San Juanico where we had planned on stopping, the winds were out of the east to south east with swells to match. For most of the trio up, it was just about about no winds and calm seas till we got a few miles outside of San Juanico and then it started piping up and into the mid teens with a fair amount of swells to go along, We decided to go around the corner to La Ramada, a small cove on the north side of San Juanico and nice and protected for any winds or swells from just about anywhere but north. It was a nice calm night. On the way up, I called Albatross, a larger trawler that was going into San Juanico and he told me there were three boats in there already and we knew there was at least one more behind us. We started in but just found it was too rocky and made the right decision to head around the corner where it was nice and calm. It was a nice night though my vertigo came back. We did another of the Eply Maneuvers and I took some meds and took it easy and today, all is well other then a slight headache. We pulled up the anchor just after 0800 and headed back around the corner to San Juanico and found that the three that had been there when we tried the day before has swollen to 8. During the late morning and early afternoon, it grew to 14 and there is still lots of the afternoon to get some more though the winds have now shifted around to be coming out of the north to northeast which makes it harder to get here from down south. All of these boats have come out of Puerto Escondido during the lull in the winds on Monday. It was the great escape. We launched Puff and headed for the south side of the bay to do some exploring. We were there back in February of 2010 and it was nice to see the beach and rocky cliffs again and stroll along the beach. With the winds blowing, it was a bouncy ride back but we stayed relatively dry for the trip. Tomorrow, it's off for the north beach and a search for Apache Tears, small chunks of obsidian that are found along the paths and roadways from long ago volcanic eruptions. I carried one as far as Antigua where it got lost in the laundry when we forgot to take it our of the pocket in my pants. Now is the time to find another.

La Ramada--not the hotel

16 April 2018 | 26 22.928N:-111 25.871W
As I wrote earlier when we were passing Loreto and we could get internet, we dropped the mooring lines and set out for San Juanito, about 36 miles north. Of course, there was no wind but the engine was doing fine. As we continued north, we saw a couple of boats on our AUS(Automatic Identification System) that were also headed for San Juanico. No big deal as it's a big enough bay to handle lots of boats. Bad this is that by the time we got there, about 1430, the winds had finally kicked up--our of the southeast to about 14 knots with the swells coming along for the ride. At about 2 to 3 feet, the boats that were already in there were bouncing up and down in the swells and the winds. OK, time to rethink our plans. When we were here back in 2010, we hiked over to a nigh cove on the north side of San Juanico called La Ramada. The bottom was sand the there was a nice beach and it would protect us from all the south winds and swells. We started heading in and changed out minds and went about a mile farther around the headlands and into La Ramada and we have it all to ourselves, at least for now. Another boat could come in but we only saw (AIS)one behind us and it was headed for San Juanico so no problem. We may end up having it all to ourselves(YEA!!). The winds are still blowing out around the corner and we are sitting nice and calmly with the wind generator spinning on the stern. We ended up getting in about 1500 after about 38 miles, all under motor as the winds didn't show up till we were about 3 miles from our destination. We dropped the anchor and put our sail cover back on and are settling in for the night. Tomorrow, the winds are supposed to shift around to the north west but we can always move if it gets rough. As for my veritgo, it seems to be alright now but I'm taking it a bit easy as I'm not really sure about it's cause but yesterday if I tilted my head backwards, tie world just started spinning. Today, not so much but we will see how it is tomorrow.

Caleta Candeleros Chico

16 April 2018 | On passage
Bill/sunny and warm
Here we are at anchor in the killing fields of Candeleros Chico
Vessel Name: Zephyr
Vessel Make/Model: Shin Fa 458
Hailing Port: Denver, Colorado
Crew: Bill & Tracy Hudson
About: We've been sailing since the early 80's on lakes in New Mexico and Colorado and finally took the plunge and bought Zephyr.
We moved on board in April of 2008 and have been working and sailing her ever since. Up to Alaska and down to Mexico and across the Pacific to Fiji. From Fiji to the Philippines and down to South Africa for Christmas 2015. We've now made it to the Caribbean and through the Panama Canal. With [...]
Home Page: http::/
Zephyr's Photos - San Juanico along the Baja.
Photos 1 to 48 of 48 | Main
The small cove that is at the bottom of the hill just East of the houses along the North shore.
One of the houses along the North shore.  There aren
The spire in the middle of the North cove at San Juanico as scene from the Eastern side.
Looking South from the top of one of the hills along the West side during one of my hikes.
The road West of San Juanico.  It
Ruts in the road--some well over 18 inches deep.
Like I said, good luck even with a Hummer.  This part of the road is at a good 45 degrees.
The gate to the ranch.  It comes complete with a lock to keep all the trespassers out.  At least those in cars.
A sign along the road.
Looking South along the shoreline from the West Beach.
From atop the hills on the West shore during one of my hikes along the ridge.
The "road" behind the West beach heading South toward one of the "ranches".  There is no way anyone had driven this road in many years.  The ruts are too deep.
Another view, only higher up the hills.  An incredible view.
Sand from a clam pushed out as he dug deeper in the beach.  It looks like tubes all along the beach.
Looking North along the South beach.  A wonderful place to sit back and enjoy and the only way to it is by boat.
My favorite rock.  I have no clue as to what it is made of but if I ever get back there, I
The South beach from the headlands along the South shoreline.
Looking farther South around the headlands of the South beach.  More cliffs and reefs.
Looking down on San Juanico.
One of the many survey markers along the shoreline.  Good luck building out there.
The South beach.  A beautiful place for a stroll.
Looking South along the South beach at San Juanico.
The "Cruiser
Looking down toward San Juanico during the hike to La Ramada.
The North Beach at San Juanico looking East toward the headland.
Looking out from the West beach toward the North shoreline.
The hillsides behind the West beaches.
A smooth barked tree along the "river"
Cactus with soft needles.  It almost looked like feathers on the cactus.
The dry river bed farther West up the "river".
Sea shell fossils on the tops of hills West of San Juanico.  The shells that made the fossils where still in the relief.
Flowers in the creek beds that cur through the road.
Inside one of the small caves along the beach.
The "river
Even the cows die out here in the Summer.  All that was left was a bit of hide and a lot of bones.
These cactus grow an inch a year.  This baby has been here a long time.
A southern beach full of round rocks.  No sand at all, yet the other beaches are covered in sand.  Go figure.
Veins of gypsum sunning through the hill side beside the beach.  Like veins of a tree.
Close up of the gypsum veins.
One of the small "caves" along the shoreline.
Looking South during low tide.
The west road behind the beach.
The road around San Juanico.  Good luck driving it.  Even a Hummer would have a problem.
Ruts like you would not believe.
A statue on the West beach.  Something new made of drift wood.
The "river" just West of the West beach.  For a "river" the water is salty.
Looking South from the West beach at San Juanico.
Lots of scrub brush.
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