Wow! What a sail!
04 June 2013 | Povoa de Varzim
I am both relieved and delighted to report that we have now safely crossed Biscay. Not only that, but we have made it all the way to our planned destination – well, not quite as we changed our plans slightly during the passage!
Back in Camaret we were concerned about the weather and delayed our departure as we waited for a suitable window. We were getting concerned that that there would be insufficient time and we would have to head for A Coruna in order to get crew to their flights on time. During that Wednesday evening we studied the forecasts both for wind and swell and decided that unless anything changed we would head off the following morning. Nothing did so we did!
Early Thursday morning we topped up with water, prepared sandwiches, thermos and generally ensured everything was ready before we headed out. We left the pontoon at 10:30BST and as the wind was on the nose we motored for the first couple of miles but once we rounded the headland protecting Camaret Marina we unfurled the headsail and switched the engine off. The wind was forecast to stay strong throughout that day and into the following morning when it would drop to around 15kts (we hoped). Initially the sea was not too bad and we made fast progress out past various waypoints to the outer edge of the Raz de Sein. Once out in open water, however, the swell began to build – along with the wind. By evening the sea was quite confused and the helmsman had to focus all the time to avoid rounding up. As the night wore on there was no sign of any let up in the wind and at dawn the sun struggled and failed to break through. We were left with a cold, grey, windy and drizzly start to the day.
Finally by mid-morning the wind eased back and the motion of the boat became more comfortable and by afternoon the main was up – albeit with two reefs! That evening, when Ciara and I were on watch, a couple of dolphins came and played round the boat. About half a mile away I spotted the spray from a whale exhaling close to the surface. In fact I saw that four times in quick succession so clearly there was a pod nearby but we could not see them let alone identify which species was in the vicinity.
At dusk we started to see more and more shipping in the vicinity and whilst we were not in a designated shipping lane it was clear that the stretch of water we were sailing was used to filter ships in and out of the Finnisterre Shipping Channel. Visibility dropped, at times, to little more than a mile see we were very glad of AIS and radar. On a couple of occasions I called ships we were “concerned about” and agreed mutual courses to ensure we passed safely at which point I was called by an American sounding gentleman from a yacht called JULIETTE who advised me there was a tightly packed cluster of ships heading our way. His parting shot was to advise us to “get the hell out of there!”. We got the hell out of there and headed west to clear the traffic.
Saturday was much better and we had an enjoyable sail towards North West Spain. We had not been able to pick up any weather forecasts since we left Camaret so I called a passing ship for an update. Shortly after a Spanish station came on the VHF with a bulletin which gave 4 – 5, possible 6 in the Finnisterre area so we headed in towards the Inshore Passage off the tip of the headland.
At eight o’clock I came on watch and took the helm. We decided to take the main down and continue under semi-furled jib only. In light of the night ahead I am mighty glad we did!! We sailed on and the wind increased a little as did the following seas but there were no difficulties. Ciara and I shared the next two hour watch and were treated to a fantastic display from a number of dolphins of varying sizes. They rushed to and fro down either side of the boat, across the bows and were seen charging in from some way off, skipping through the waves. I only wish I could have grabbed the camera but we were working hard to keep the boat on track as by now the waves were pushing us quite hard.
At 10pm Pat came back on watch and took the helm and it was my turn to try to get some sleep. I have been in the habit of sleeping in the fore cabin where I could wedge myself in between Richard’s suitcase, various other soft bags, the guitar case and various other items. On this occasion, however, this proved impossible. The boat was rolling wildly and pitching and banging as we crashed through waves. Three times the entire luggage collection rolled on top of me and I finally gave up the unequal struggle. I took the starboard main cabin berth and tried to get some sleep but the noise was incredible as we rushed on. Once I stood up to look out of the cabin side window (on the coach roof) to see the sea washing over it and waves were thundering by. Throughout all this Richard was fast asleep in the port side berth!! I decided to get togged up and go back on deck. Back in the cockpit it was actually a lot quieter but I could see Pat was working really hard at the helm. Some two hours later I went back on the wheel but, I am relieved to say, the wind and sea had eased just a tad and I definitely drew the easier watch. The winds were from the north east on our port quarter, typically around 27kts but on several occasions picking up to over 35. The boat was brilliant, so well behaved and light on the helm. The crew was great and we made it through with no damage to life, limb, or boat.
In contrast to the previous few days Sunday dawned to a clear sky and it was just a case of waiting for the wind to drop before we would get the benefit of the warmth. In fact the wind stayed with us pretty much until we reached Baiona – our original planned stop-over, but we had decided to carry on another seventy miles to Leixoes – location for our first designated crew change. Even as we headed down the Portuguese coast this changed again as Richard recommended Povoa de Varzim as an equally suitable spot and far more pleasant than the rather industrial Leixoes.
We tied up just after 5pm to be greeted by very friendly and helpful marina staff – who promptly took our finger prints! All in a good cause, however, as access to the pontoons and shower block is all controlled by fingerprint pad.
Now we are here in Povoa the weather has settled down – wall to wall sunshine and very agreeable temperatures. This is what we came for!