15 August 2019 Palmerston Survivalist Heaven

We'd been prepared to ferry supplies to Palmerston since they only get supply ships every 3-4 months but were not contacted by any family or pastors since ship was expected soon. We were a bit uneasy of even going there as it is maybe 100 miles out of the way to Niue and if any west in the wind we would have to bypass. Also a bit put off by the need for a family there to sponsor you during the stay. Wind and swell did not assist as we had to tack far south and then gybe over to even reach the island which added another 80 miles to the transit.

It was so worth it! Our VHF came alive before we had completely come around to the West side of island hailing us with directions to approach a buoy and they would standby in their tender (very British vocabulary and New Zealand accent) to assist. The large staysail schooner, Asymanti, and a 60+ Nordhaven plus two other monohulls were already on buoys. We've become quite slick at securing mooring balls so that went off well with Edward and his son David in their aluminum dingy just in case. Edward explained he would be our host and responsible to the island council to be sure we did no harm to the reef and village by providing taxi service in and out of the twisted narrow pass. The only fees were $10 NZ for each night at the mooring ball. He radio'd Customs, Arthur another family member who represents Cook Island government, with our immigration status and went to meet another New Zealand based sailboat with 8 people (4 children, parents and grand parents) aboard just arriving who were still running a Q flag. Edward then went in and ferried out Customs and Health Aide worker for our paperwork to be done on the boat. This is the first time since Mexico anyone has actually come on board�-- even thought all countries the legal terms stated it will happen. We declined a ride to town and arranged for the next morning.

David picked up people from any boats wanting to go in and gave the new people a tour of the island, school, church, solar power and water processing, mechanics and lumber milling plants, clinic and the brand new cyclone shelter financed by Japan who is a trade �"partner�" for their only export- - parrot fish.

John almost asked if that included whale hunting rights but thought better of it. We had a tour of their home camp fish processing camp area and holding freezers plus the pig pens and the house with an outdoor kitchen enclosed in chicken wire to keep out scavengers. Dogs and cats are not allowed on the island to protect the reefs from some contamination. The wrecked sailboat from six years prior was in evidence as all had been recycled for shelters or sheds including the head and galley equipment. The mast held up the main eating area tarp between the house and cooking shed.

We were given an option to wander around the island and return for lunch at 1230. We walked the beach all the way around and back into "main" street where a character named Bill Clinton hailed us to visit and have a fresh cool coconut drink. We took pictures of his "yacht club" bar he had built hoping more yachties would come and before the island council decided they do not want tourists or an airport or cruise ships to contaminate their isolated way of life. Bill also told us a more sordid version than is in Charlies Guide of the island founder William Marstens and his five wives.

There were 20 yacht guests plus about 10 family members plus the contracted clinic nurse from Barbados came to dress grandma�'s foot ulcer and eat. The 8 crew from the schooner had joined family for fishing runs and lunch four days already and helped with set up, clean up and brought the men some bottled beer. Tender fried parrot fish filets, of course, and two kinds of chicken, rice, noodle salad and an orange tang type drink. Edward updated us on the supply ship arrival which had some drama because their staples supply had not been loaded as the goods for another island had taken too much room. The ship was still going to stop to pick up everyones frozen parrot fish but the ten families were not very happy as the next ship was due December. Edward assured us they would not starve and could sustain themselves.

What an amazing experience and John is charmed and tempted to stay except westerlies are expected which would be dangerous with this reef so close to the moorings. So off to Beveridge Reef if weather allows entry or Niue if not. West winds are expected to subside on Monday so we should be able to anchor at Niue by the time we arrive there.

We definitely recommend cruisers come to this remote island. The men came out in their tender to say goodbye and invited us to return any time we wanted.