31 August 2019 Welcome to Tonga - Whales and Rainbows

Reaching Tonga late on what we thought was Wednesday, but turned out to be Thursday in this new time zone, we snuck into a north anchorage that had no village and protected from the south east winds hoping to see whales. John was leary at first as the steep forested (not coconut trees) cliff was not promising as an anchorage. We had done the advance notice of arrival to Tonga for Thursday so had time to sleep a night at anchorage and make our way fresh into the Z shaped route to city of Nieafu, 2-3 hours away, the next day in time to check into the country. It turned out to be picture perfect protected spot with caves and sheer cliffs with fruit bats at dusk and whales breeching at sunset and sunrise. Actually felt more like a Puget Sound inlet with the clear water and cloudy skies but on a warm day. This is heaven and we definitely need to return to dive the wall.

Rainbows and whales welcomed us into inner passage to Neiafu with rain/fog persisting to stress Captain John as we wound through the rocky projections thru the narrows into the customs dock. Turns out that was the least of his worries for the day. Thanks to Tango responding to our VHF 26 hails, our La Cruz MX neighbors, we knew we had to pull up to the intimidating high customs pier, in-filled with collapsed tires holding off concrete and barnacles, as the officials actually come onto to the boat for entry clearances. First approach John says oh H- - - no; so we loop around praying another boat- side tied to a tug- pulls away. Meanwhile the ferry is leaving making the commercial pier look real good until we hear on VhF 16 a fuel tanker has priority in the narrows so we do a temporary anchor on the other side of the channel thinking we see what happens and worst case we don't stop in Tonga says John! Seriously stressed here but I figure a time out is good. So what if we have to wait until Monday to check -in which would be the next first high tide at 0500 that we might stand a chance against that concrete pier with every fender out. Meanwhile, Jan and John from Tango, dinghy over to welcome us and consult on our options. We know better than to show up at lunch break, but want to arrive prior to the Friday afternoon rush so once the catamaran and sailboat alongside the tug pull away we motor over to do a drive by the tug to see if permission to tie up. An employee of the boat yard encourages us to tie up behind the tug with his assist. Now for our stern to spin in this direction, John has to gun the engine for the prop to walk clockwise which scares the beJesus out of me. Did I mention the wind was running 15-20 pining us onto the dock? We had every fender and line out we own. The red 4ft rectangle fender saved the day, and our wood rail and hull, as he placed it on one of the huge tractor tires to hold us off while we adjusted lines and fenders.

The Health and Bio Environmental folks came right out and climbed down the tires to reach the boat. I went up to find the customs forms and pay the entry fees as John was not leaving the boat. Turns out the customs and immigrations had an important government visit and all employees were dressed in respectful traditional ta-ovala wear but the customs officer was not available this afternoon due to the visit and a plane arrival. Sensing a mutiny, I asked if we could anchor out until Monday if we paid the fees and finish paperwork then. A customs assistant, very handsome in his ta-ovala woven kilt, took all the necessary paperwork and actually stamped our passports. So I think we are legal!

Getting off the pier with 15-18 knot gusts was another test for TabuSoro and us. We hoped to hold the stern and push off the bow enough for the wind to take it off the pier just enough to miss the little tug in front of us but so we did not have to power the stern into the concrete. It all started out well with John pushing from the bow until the wake from an incoming whale watching boat threw us up under the pier and we hear a pop. John got back to the stern in time to help me keep it off the concrete and had me throw it into hard reverse to get away from the swell which I had to straighten out some before the bow pulpit crunched the concrete. Johns running up and down the boat pushing off with his feet at strategic locations. We got away with only a hole in one of our good fenders and no damage to the rail or hull. I however had jello for legs. Isn't retirement swell?!!??