We arrived in Noumea and anchored close to our usual spot in Baie de L’Orphelinat on Tuesday 30 July, relocating to a better position later that afternoon.

The period to Saturday 3rd August was dominated by restocking our stores and repairing the alternator mounting bracket. So the Tuesday between anchoring saw us head to our local supermarket in Port Pleasance to stock up and drop off our laundry. As we have noted before, the Casino supermarket is clean, bright, well stocked and at Noumea prices. The laundrette close by provides an excellent service at a reasonable price. Although to be fair, the cost of laundering our sleeping bags (some $30 each) was pretty much about what we paid for them in the first place! Our laundry was ready and picked up the next day, Wednesday.

The alternator mounting bracket is attached to a larger, substantial bracket which in turn is securely bolted to the engine and engine mount. As is usual the bolts were not easy to access, and we did not really feel like removing an engine mount. Our first preference was therefore to find a welder who could weld the alternator mounting bracket back onto the larger bracket in situ. We had noticed a yacht services business along the edge of the Port Moselle marina, and that this business included arranging welding work. Excellent. We also needed to refill an LPG gas bottle and this business did that as well. Indeed, talking to various sources, it was the only business that did so. (Later research showed that petrol stations did not refill gas containers and indeed, it was illegal to refill LPG gas containers in New Caledonia.) So in the morning we called into the small kiosk. It was closed with a sign and a phone number to call. We tried the number and got someone who could only speak French, quickly, and so our communication failed. Paul went ashore later that afternoon to try again. This time the kiosk was open and the attendant, Audrey, could speak reasonable English. First the gas bottle. Ah. That was done by the owner, and he was away for a few weeks. However, the small chandlery outlet along the marina front might be able to help. OK. Welding. No. None of the local welders would even countenance coming out to a boat to weld. Apparently they all had too much work and so could be very picky. Audrey did have a welding contact who lived a little way out of Noumea who she could call. Fortunately there was an American man in the kiosk called Len. He had a large ketch (a mere 72 foot long!) that the yacht services business was looking after. He was due to go to the boatyard to try to get his outboard throttle cable fixed (a long story of a new electronic cable being fitted and then the outboard not working, and the Yamaha dealer not being available – repeatedly). He was going to the boatyard and could offer Paul a lift to see a welding business face to face. Even better, he was returning to the marina, so could offer a lift back. Paul gratefully accepted. Audrey kindly let Paul leave the LPG bottle in the kiosk. So off Len and Paul went.

Len was an interesting character. Aged 60 to 70, he had a business in the USA but lived in Mexico. He had cruised extensively, and left the ketch in Noumea whilst he returned to the USA. Apart from talking about sailing (which occupied 95% of the trip), Paul and Len discussed New Caledonia prices. Len noted that his trips to the USA meant he would fly and then hire a car. Typically hiring a ‘reasonable car’ (a Mercedes C300) wold cost him 1000 US dollars for a month. In Noumea, he had hired a small SUV, and it had cost him about 1000 US dollars for a week!

Len and Paul first stopped at the welding business, Pacific Welding. It was open but no one answered their calls. Onto the Yamaha dealer where, politely, Len explained the situation. The Yamaha dealer would try to fit Len in the next week or so. A bit more discussion and that changed to the next day or so! Back to the welder, and it was closed (well it was about 1530 by now!). Back to the yacht service kiosk and Paul took the LPG bottle to the small chandlery and ‘Lauren’. Lauren’s response was ‘no problem, pick the bottle up tomorrow’.

It was obvious that the large bracket would have to be removed so the welder could weld the support bracket. So next morning, bright and early, Paul got to work. Three hours later and the alternator, alternator pulley, and bracket were off. Another hour to clean up the bracket (it had a lot of accumulated dirt and rust on it), and then Paul was in the dinghy to the welder. This time the welder was in, and indicated he would weld up the bracket for CPF 6500 (about $100), pick up the next morning; great. Next stop the marina to pick up the LPG bottle. Lauren had refilled it, and managed to fit 10 kg onto the bottle. Just as well, as the refill cost CPF 8000 (some $120!). As a comparison in New Zealand a refill is typically about $35! However, it was hard to grumble as at least the bottle was refilled and, as later research showed, the method is to transfer LPG from one bottle to another, a slow process, as the New Caledonian suppliers use French fittings as opposed to the international ones.

Friday morning and Paul picked up the welding. It looked like a very good job with a good clean weld. Paul complimented the welder and returned to Tai Mo Shan. This was a good time to refurbish the bracket with a good coat of metal enamel paint, the painting and drying taking the rest of the morning. The refitting ‘only’ took 2 hours, so all was done by the afternoon.

In the interim, Helen had given Tai Mo Shan a really thorough clean. All was ready for the arrival of our friends Lyle and Jan the next day.

Picture. The (cleaned) bracket. The broken mounting bracket is to the right end of the bracket.