We remained at anchor in Athol Bay from the 3rd to the 9th October. During that time the wind swung from being a gentle breeze in the northerly quadrant to a much stronger blow from between south west and south east. Indeed, there was a strong wind warning for a couple of days. Athol Bay is very sheltered from northerly winds but fairly exposed to the south. We therefore remained on board during the southerly blow. As it was the harbour provided significant protection and, with only a mile or so of fetch across the harbour, we did not experience any significant waves. Whilst the wind blew at up to 30 knots we were therefore quite comfortable. However, Sydney Harbour is very busy with frequent ferries and water taxis, many recreational boats, and the occasional cruise liner and even freighters and tankers passing by. These did create a noticeable wake, which became a feature of our stay in the harbour. Whilst not dangerous, the wake could be annoying.

Athol Bay is very pleasant and clearly is a popular stop off for Sydney’s resident fleet of recreational boats, and the numerous hire boats. On fine days the 2 hour limit moorings were used almost constantly with boats changing over frequently. Indeed, bank holiday weekend featured fine weather and we had very many boats come and anchor for the day near us. The affluence of Sydney was clear in the size of these boats. We saw many launches in the 60 foot class, and loads of smaller ones at ‘only’ 40 foot or so. Whilst we experienced many examples of great seamanship, we also saw several case of appalling boat handling. On more than one occasion we did not know how boats missed our anchor chain as they passed close to our bow! Some also seemed to think that having big engines entitled them to blast through a mooring and anchoring area, despite the shouts and waves of protest from the other boaties.

We also noticed the large number of party boats that came to visit for a few hours. These tended to have loud music and ‘happy’ people on board. However, they also clearly had sober professional crew and so were not a problem for us at all.

Athol Bay is right next to Taronga Zoo. There is a ferry stop on the rocky western headland which provides a frequent ferry service to the centre of Sydney. Unfortunately we could not land on the ferry wharf. Instead we could land at a beach close by, walk up some steps across a reserve and then down the roadside footpath to the ferry, a total distance of perhaps 600m. We used the ferry on several occasions. The fare to Circular Quay downtown Sydney was $1 per person each way, so very affordable. Even better, as we tended to be going in the opposite direction to those going to the zoo we missed the crowds swarming the ferry. The whole public transport system had just introduced contactless fare paying, so we did not need to buy an ‘Opal’ card and were able to use our bank debit card instead; a really good improvement to travelling convenience.

We found Sydney to be modern and pleasant. One day we walked the 1km or so to the Westfield shopping centre in the CBD. This is a huge centre with some 4 levels of shops and a large basement food court. We had just celebrated Helen’s birthday and with Myer having a sale on Helen took the opportunity to ‘save’ us lots of money as she got her birthday present of clothing. Still, the day was not a total loss as the centre also hosts the Sydney Tower, a 250m tall structure which still towers (just) over the city. Of course, we went up the tower and saw the magnificent views. Even better we were able to take advantage of the free half hour guided ‘tour’. As well as buying post cards, we could post them from Sydney’s highest post box!

The CBD also had a few supermarkets. We found the Woolworths to be pretty well stocked at reasonable prices, even if the multi-floor layout felt a little odd.

We decided to be tourists for a day in Sydney and take in the sights. These included the outside of the opera house, probably most impressive for the open spaces, the catholic cathedral with its stained glass windows, and the hauntingly emotional ANZAC memorial. We also took the mini train tour around the Botanical Gardens which was surprisingly good fun and value. Like much of Australia, Sydney has retained at least the front of several older historic buildings, which retains a certain ambiance, and contrasts starkly with the ultra-modern tower blocks being erected.

Another day we decided head up river to Parramatta. Why Paramatta? Well, it’s there and means a nice river trip. Whilst we could go perhaps 2/3 of the way in Tai Mo Shan, anchoring further up the harbour and into the Paramatta river gets tricky as the water is more confined, full of moorings and shallow. We therefore went to Circular Quay and caught the River Cat. The quay at Paramatta was closed for maintenance and so we had to get off at the penultimate stop, Rydalmere, and catch the complimentary connecting bus to Paramatta Wharf. The ferry trip lasted an hour and a quarter, with the bus taking perhaps 15 minutes more. And the cost, was some $12 or so for the return trip; not bad at all.

The river trip was very interesting as we covered the middle and upper harbour, cruising at some speed past all the sights. Of note, all the bays and inlets were full of moorings. A great many of the houses we passed also had their own jetties, complete with boats attached. Boating is obviously popular! As we entered the upper reaches of the Parramatta river we passed a channel marker stating that only Rivercats and authorised vessels were allowed past that point. Initially we were surprised, but then realised that a hundred metres later the channel was only just wider than the Rivercat!

We had chosen to take the river trip on the Bank Holiday Monday and so most, if not all, of the centre of Parramatta was closed. Still we found a reasonably priced Asian restaurant and settled in for a leisurely lunch at a table overlooking the river. Barbeque meats, kofta, dips and Lebanese bread; a great birthday treat for Helen!

By Wednesday 9th October we were over the frequent wake and so decided to relocate. Another southerly blow was forecast and Rose Bay offered much more shelter from the south, as well as being further from the main harbour traffic. En-route we stopped at Rushcutters Bay Marina and topped up our diesel tanks. As with seemingly everywhere else, the bay was full of moorings and the marina berths full. Still, there was good access to the fueling pier. Payment was by automatic machine and bank card, making the whole process quick and easy. In Rose Bay was dropped anchor in a nice gap on the edge of the moorings.

Rose Bay is a pleasant suburb of Sydney on the southern peninsula forming the harbour entrance, opposite Bondi (of the beach fame). Going ashore was easy as there is a public wharf that we could tie the dinghy up to. This was close to the ferry terminal and a pleasant waterfront park. Of interest, there was also a float plane terminal. The float planes took off and landed in the bay with some regularity. It was interesting seeing the plane take off and then immediately bank away from the land to turn and gain height over the water. We noted with some interest the history of the terminal; it had been a seaplane terminal in the 1930s. We walked around the small town area, with its collection of shops. These tended to be higher end clothing and cafes. However there was a useful local supermarket allowing us to replenish some stores. There was also a good fish restaurant which provided a nice lunch, including a rare treat of fresh oysters for Paul.

A couple of days we sufficient to see and get the tenor of Rose Bay. (Yes, a very pleasant affluent suburb) and so on Saturday 12th October we raised anchor and headed north to Pittwater.

Picture: Clockwise from top left. Sydney Cathedral, Sydney Tower, ANZAC Memorial, The Opera House, The Opera House, Sydney Harbour Bridge.