The sloping black sand beach wraps around Ranon Bay until it ends abruptly in a precipitious jumble of green. The north coast of Ambrym is steep and tropical.

It is said that the islands of Vanuatu that have active volcanos have the strongest black magic. Ambrym has two so perhaps it is the most magical of all. At night from the cockpit we can see the red luminescence that pulsates like twin hearts with irratic beats. During the day mushrooming clouds of ash and gas remind us that Mt. Marum and Mt. Benbow are not far away. We will not hike to them though.

Of all the islands in Vanuatu, more than 80, Ambrym has the finest wood carvings. Replicas of masks used in their famous rom dances are available as are tam tams (drums) and clubs. We are shopping for the first time in a very long time.

Each evening about 5:00 pm a rhythmic drum sounds on the hill. It is a man pounding bits of kava root in a cylindrical metal container with a heavy pole, mortar and pestal style. The scene is replayed at another kava bar on the beach. This kava is good. Very good. The most potent we've had from a kava bar yet. After two cups each, Jim's large, mine small, we went back to Tenaya for dinner. Jim had a glass of wine and shortly therafter was hanging over the side feeding the fish. I'm glad I declined the wine.

The people are friendly and the children are incredibly sweet. Yesterday a group, that grew with each village we visited, lead us on a wonderful walk. I liked the smell of the frangipani flower so two boys climbed up the tree and picked me a bouquet.

The water in the bay is warm and clear and feels absolutely glorious. I've spent some time in it checking and working our anchor which will not set in the rock hard ground. The thin layer of sand is deceiving. Fortunately the anchor is really heavy for the size of our boat, 32 kg, and we've got 10mm chain. As long as the wind doesn't kick up we'll be fine with all that weight.

We like Ranon. Perhaps we will return and spend more time here, but tomorrow we are off to Pentacost. Gotta keep moving and get to Santo before our friend, Steve, arrives in 10 days.