So, you are curious about Tarawa? You should be. It is of significant historical value to anyone interested in World War II battles. The battle of Tarawa was a turning point in how the US accomplished tropical reef landings. This was the painful learning curve as thousands of US marines died just getting to the beach. By the time this battle concluded close to 10,000 people were killed. They of course included US Marines and Japanese elite soldiers. What is not often known is that Korean laborers brought over by the Japanese were killed alongside the Japanese soldiers. Before this battle even cranked up, an even lesser known event occurred. When the Japanese arrived they rounded up civilian watch keepers from outlying islands that included British and Australian dignitaries. They gathered up missionaries and any other person of prominence. These 80 plus people were lined up and shot. Local inhabitants from Tarawa were removed and sent to Ocean Island. When the smoke cleared, the island was pretty well denuded of all vegetation.
All is quiet today. The palm trees and pandanas are once again shading a vibrant community. The red stained shores are now clear tropical water with all the shades of aqua green to dark blue. Children greeted us without a care in the world. Only pill boxes, heavily shelled structures and some rusted out guns facing sunken landing crafts and other relics mark those bloody days. Cruising isn't just about visiting happy times. It is also understanding and learning of the impacts man has made on others and the environment. This sobering landfall clearly reminds us to rekindle a quest for peace as strife affects the innocent as well.
The entrance into Tarawa was straight forward, that is as long as you don't take the charts and markers too seriously. The markers are way off from charted positions. Some are missing, or so rusty that they look red, but were once painted green. By using good eyeball strategies for entering any atoll no problems should be encountered. Once close, anchoring amongst the other ships is the expected protocol. When we were there the trades made the anchorage uncomfortably roly. We anchored in 15 feet of water just out from a man-made inlet where a spot for the dinghy can be found. Checking in was quite an informal affair for us this year. Every year is a new year so find out from others for the current status. No paperwork, no worries, nice folks, and an easy check-out as well.
Getting around was easy; just catch a bus. The buses are everywhere and are actually large,crowded vans. Causeways were built between some of the islands and it's an hour ride out to the airport where the road ends. It's well worth taking the bus out there. Like Funafuti, the population growth is making for crowded living and difficult food production. Pigs are popular fare, and gardens are grown everywhere possible. Don't count on getting water here. Fuel can be had,if absolutely necessary and a few provisions are possible. This is a great place to visit, as long as one understands the scarcity of goods and services. There is an ATM machine here. Kiribati uses Australian currency.
We did not opt to go to other atolls in this island group because we would have to sail back to Tarawa to check out. The local folks we met including a pastor from one of the outer atolls stated that if a person has time the outer atolls are well worth visiting. Unfortunately for us, we needed to move on towards the Marshall islands and the current wind patterns would have really delayed us. But, there is always a chance to return and really spend some time exploring these seldom visited places.
Don't wait too long to see the low lying atolls of the Pacific. Global warming is a real threat to their existence. With the sea level rising, these beautiful places will be underwater in the not so distant future.