The Small Isles
27 December 2021 | Small Isles
Lawrence Stabbins
TTSmallIsles/Skye 14-21 August
Mallaig is a perfect base from which to explore the area from Kyle of Lochalsh to Ardnamurchan, with so many options for anchorages both on the mainland and the islands. Following the spell of bad weather while we were in Mallaig the wind was due to be mainly moderate W or NW so in a lumpy sea and moderate WSW wind we were amongst the mass exodus from Mallaig, most boats apparently heading south of Ardnamurchan. We were able to sail close-hauled for Port Mor, Muck, the most southerly Small Isle. Muck is a small but perfectly-formed, fertile, mainly low-lying island with a good level of self-sufficiency due to the enterprising MacEwan family who farm mainly sheep, some cattle and thousands of pheasants for the shooting lodge. We walked the 2kms of road and some cross country exploration to the north side where the farm and lodge are situated by the beautiful Bagh Ghallanaich bay, which is also an anchorage in S winds. We bought irrestible fresh farm produce, even though we were only just out of Mallaig but sadly couldn't find space on Tern for any of the wonderful baskets or other arts and crafts from the 24/7 shop in Port Mor. There is a school, a cafe, camp site and holiday cottages- a delightful island and no wonder the anchorage had fairly filled by sunset.
With good sailing wind we opted to leave next morning and sail for Rum, though Eigg would also have been possible. Rum has attracted us for a long time with it's superb mountains but as we progressed N up the sound towards Loch Scresort the hills frustratingly averted the breeze and we had to motor. The anchorage is large but by the time you keep out of the ferry track, the visitor moorings and the shallow areas the space is reduced though we found plenty of room in good holding in the NW of the loch. Being the largest and highest island it is frequently crowned by clouds, as it was during our stay. Walking at low level was clear but we wanted to get as high as we could but turned back from Askival (812m) at about 600m after struggling in nil vis for some time. Still, it was an enjoyable hill walk with a rugged corrie, mountain river with waterfalls with a Dipper, deer, birds of prey: a slightly tamed wilderness.
Rum was one of the earliest places of human settlement in Scotland and it's easy to imagine it's strategic appeal in prehistoric times. Our Scottish Islands book gives a succinct history but today it seems to be in need of more support for improved infrastrucure such as green energy systems and Kinloch Castle, which has long been for sale and is slipping towards dereliction, rather overshadows the community whom, I'm sure, are doing their best to thrive. Island venison for supper!
Returning to Tern we saw Eda Frandsen had come into the anchorage so we were able to have our first rendezvous with our daughter on her and her partner's classic charterboat. With 8 guests they had little time to socialise and the next day, with no improvement in the hill walking conditions we set off north again towards Scavaig on Skye. We had had a stowaawy Manx Shearwater on board which thankfully flew off in the night, probably having hit our rigging the night before. Eda Frandsen had a similar one so it's probably quite a common occurrance.
We had to pass Soay, but as it is home of the famous rare-breed Soay sheep (Soay means sheep), we decided to visit and hopefully add a bit of wool to my collection. The large bay, Camas nan Gall, is well sheltered in westerly winds and although reputed to have poor holding on shingle, we had no problem, though it was pretty calm during our visit. There are no facilities or encouragement to attract visitors and the resident population is only 3 with numbers slightly swelled in summer due to a few holiday homes. So it's a very peaceful place, mainly low lying due to it's Torridon sandstone geology and nothing like it's mountainous neighbour,Skye. We rambled around, visiting the harbour on the north side where there is a derelict shark oil factory, founded in 1946 by Gavin Maxwell who bought the island. Fortunately the venture only ran for 3 years but it provided Maxwell with material for his first novel, Harpoon. Maxwell sold up and decamped to Sandaig for a more conservation-inspiring career with his otter, writing Ring of Bright Water.
Soay had 25 crofts and was populated by dispossessed crofters from Skye after the clearances in the mid 1800s. Eventually only one family remained, that of Joseph 'Tex' Geddes, who had been Gavin Maxwell's harpooner, who bought the island in 1993 and is memorialised by a plaque beside the main footpath. Soay had the first solar-powered telephone exchange in the world, there are still telephone cables and pylons around the bay, but hardly any mobile signal. However, we gathered from a friendly islander that the internet on the island is first class due to an arragement with the provider so that people can communicate with the outside world without having to take much part in it!
The island still has some sheep but they are not farmed with any vigour and those that wander the island seemed pretty tame and even the few deer are unperturbed by visitors. The lambs around the croft belonging to the resident islanders would not let us pass without a rub and scratch behind the ears and I found a nice clump of the famous brown fleece shed on the beach.
There is an article in The Scotsman which interviews the crofting wife: "How to survive on a remote Scottish Island with just your husband" which gives a glimpse into life on Soay. As a cruising wife, I can relate to that!