Leaving Fiji
13 August 2013 | Musket Cove
Mark
It's been a while since we've posted to our sailblogs site. We've had such great Internet in Fiji that we've used Facebook instead. But for those of you who just don't "do" Facebook, or like our occasional rants, we'll soon be relying on our good old trusty SSB radio for updates, and that means sailblogs. Of course that also highlights one of the reasons for going to Vanuatu - our next destination. Fiji has been grand. Though we regret having missed the Lau group for it's pristine and relatively unspoiled villages, we've enjoyed the western side of Fiji and especially the Yasawa's. The climate is warm and dry, the water, inviting and safe, and the surfing, world class. Fiji is the first place that we've had the luxury of voluntarily staying for so long (2-months). Though we loved New Zealand, our stay was mandated by the avoidance of the cyclone season. But like all places, sooner or later we have to leave and the time has come for us to move on. We're looking at weather windows to leave Fiji behind and head to Vanuatu which luckily is just 3 or 4 days sail. Highlights we expect to find are fewer resorts, a kick-ass volcano that erupts before you every 15-minutes, better fishing and stronger kava. Kava, you say? Here in Fiji, we've learned to take a bundle of unground kava roots/twigs to the chief of every village where we've anchored. The offering is called "sevusevu." After dressing appropriately, we go ashore and ask for the "Taranga ni Koro" (chief's representative.). He then takes us to the chief where we are asked to sit in appropriate fashion on grass mats and present the bundled kava in a semi-formal ceremony to the chief. He/she claps with cupped hands and mutters an age old chant in Fijian that basically means he accepts our offering and grants us permission to anchor at the island, take photos, fish, snorkel, etc. In more remote parts of Fiji, this would be followed by actually drinking kava with the chief and his underlings. But as most of the Yasawa's now have at least one resort on or near their island village, the locals have seen enough foreign pink tourists already and "yachties" are just something else to be tolerated. We feel it's unfortunate to be grouped into either category after sailing on our own keel for so many thousands of miles. But how're they to distinguish? We are looking forward to our visit in Vanuatu and hope to find a road slightly less travelled. The ceremonial purpose of Kava in Vanuatu is not quite as formal as in Fiji. But we hear the more potent root is still very much part of the culture. One of the Vanuatu guides warns against drinking any water (or ice) from ashore for fear of contracting any number of waterborne parasites, yet also goes on to say that you must respect the culture by accepting offerings of kava and local foods when presented... Not sure how we'll deal with that one. We plan to sail to Aneityum island to clear into Vanuatu, then on to Tana where we'll get up close and personal with a very active volcano. We are all looking forward to that one! Stay tuned.