We still like Vanuatu. In fact, I like it even more. The day before yesterday, we left Aneiytum and sailed the 45 or so miles to Port Resolution, Tanna. Yes, Port Resolution is named after Captain Cook's Resolution. It is a striking bay on the windward side of the island and most, if not all, yachts passing through this part of the world stop here to visit THE VOLCANO. It bears mentioning that, although the volcano is, indeed, very very very very impressive, the people here, and the trees, and the water, and the hotsprings, and the beach, and everything else, is worth seeing in its own right. We are still internet-less, and virtually cashless now as well. But more on that later. We arrived in the afternoon, after a good sail in strong SSE trades, and dropped anchor in about 16 feet of water. That's pretty shallow for us, but the entire bay is 3-4 meters so that's what we get. Some German friends from the boat Victoria that arrived the day before us came by and let us know that they had set everything up with one of the locals, Johnson. We were to meet at the village onshore the following day at 3pm, and Joseph and Johnson would drive us first to a �"John Frum�" village for a visit, and then to the volcano in time for sunset. The whole thing would cost 6,000 Vatu each (that's about $60). So the next day, (yesterday) we wandered ashore and met up with the two other boats that would join us on this excursion: Victoria and Namani. Victoria is populated by Haeke and Kae and their two boys, 7 and 5 years old, Niklaus and Hanis. On Namani are Nana, Marcus, and Nicky (their boat name is a convenient mnemonic device for those of us who can't remember names). Nana is American and Marcus is German, and Nicky is their 9 year old boy. Joined by three local girls, (along for the ride?), we piled into the back of the silver Nissan pickup truck and down the �"road�" we went. Hanis, the 5 year old boy, was shaking with excitement about first riding in the back of the pickup truck and then, visiting a volcano! About one bumpy hour later, we arrived in Sulphur Bay, a �"cargo cult�" village. I am not sure what cargo cults are, but apparently, these guys believe that John Frum is the prophet, and they are waiting for him to come back (I don't know who John Frum is either, or when he was here before �...). A man named Isaac showed us around and explained that he did not actually worship John Frum - he was a Christian - but the rest of the village did. People visit Sulphur Bay because of the cargo cult and also because there are hot springs all over the black sand beach - and it was very cool - but I must say I was, most of the time, one hundred percent distracted by the mountain in the distance that kept, well, ERUPTING. We piled back into the back of the truck and, before we had time to question the wisdom of the excursion, drove toward the volcano. We arrived at the sea of grey ash that was the �"parking lot�" for the volcano around 5:30pm, and we all got out and started walking up the mountain towards the booming sounds. When we got to the rim, the volcano was blasting. Niklaus, the seven year old, started screaming (very reasonably). Hanis seemed ok. Danny started laughing uncontrollably. Mark was frantically recording sound, snapping photos, and fiddling with equipment. It was stunning. As night fell, we walked around to the other side of the crater and looked into the vents. At one point, Mark asked Danny and I to pose for a picture. Danny stepped towards the crater, and I grabbed his arm. Five minutes later, I realized I was still holding his arm-in a death grip. We all made it back to the truck, and the drive home, in the dark, was considerably calmer. We'll post photos-and audio. The next day, today, we went ashore to wander around the village. One of the families in the village had asked the boats if they would be up for joining them for a feast of sorts on the beach, for a small fee. The proceeds do not go to the individuals, but to the community. So we headed to the white sand beach on the windward side of the village, and it was a beautiful day. A pig was roasting, and I chatted with a local woman named Lea. She is a French speaker and was very excited that I spoke French. She wanted to know if there were any other French speakers. I told her I was working on Danny and Mark. We had a really very delicious lunch of roasted pig, cassava, bananas cooked in something, chouchoutte (a new tasty vegetable), bread, rice, papaya, and yams. It was great. The beach was amazing, and everyone was JUST SO NICE. I know, it's getting old. But it's true! Wow. After lunch Mark and I strolled down the beach. On our way back we glimpsed Danny running through the trees followed by at least a dozen little kids - hilarious. They were all climbing all over him. Nelson, the guy whose family organized the feast, invited Danny and Mark to join the men for kava tonight. So I left them at the village kava area, where women are forbidden from going. In most traditional places in Vanuatu, drinking Kava is forbidden to women. They are not allowed to see it being prepared. Aneityum seemed less strict, but it is very clear here. I walked with Lea back to her hut and she gave me some coconut preserves, for which I paid her 200 vatu. She also asked if we have any sewing needles - she's broken her singer machine needles. I told her I would check to see if we have any of the same kind. Meanwhile, tomorrow is Mark's birthday, and we are out of onions, tomatoes, pretty much all fresh vegetables (except a few wrinkled green peppers and eggplants), wine, beer, and cash. I have not washed my hair since we left Fiji. I think we really need to make tracks to Vila, but I really hate to leave. At least I have the makings for a cake, and maybe we'll crack open that bottle of feijoa vodka we got in New Zealand and have been saving for a special occasion�...