Sailing South on Solitude

John, Penni & Timmy 2024

The Bahama Vibe

We were told that The Berry’s give you an idea of what The Bahamas were like twenty years ago. Twenty years is not that long, I suspect more like forty years ago. We got to Great Harbor Bay Marina yesterday at around midday. To get to it, we had to go through a narrow man made channel with cliffs of volcanic rock either side. This opened up to a wide river with a narrow deep channel. The river twisted around until we saw the marina, or should I say docks. The docks looked rickety with tall, rough and greyed wooden posts rising from the water. The river continued to bend to starboard as we followed it around to our slip. King, the dock master, met us there to help with the lines and welcome us. The docks are fixed docks and the tide was low. Although the tide only varies by about three feet, it was still an inelegant scramble for me to get Timmy off for his walk. It did not matter- our friends from Gilbert’s and Bimini Cove Marinas were there to greet us and congratulate us on our adventurous crossing. It was like coming home. The marina consists of some sheds housing showers, the dock master and a cafe that is open every day but was closed today as the lady was cooking for the school. There is a dusty road that connects the buildings. It is charming and I was glad to note that the showers have been updated. One thing I really wanted to see while here is a Blue Hole. These areas of suddenly deep water are all over the Bahamas and there is one a mile from the marina, close to a plane wreck that Scott, Greg and John wanted to check out. We went in Scott and Mary’s dingy which goes ten times the speed of hours. Scott stands up as he steers so we are part of the cool crowd. The boys snorkeled the plane crash. Apparently, it had been bringing drugs to the islands when it crashed. Part of it is still visible above the water. I asked if anyone died in the crash but couldn’t get a sensible answer from Scott. We then went to the Blue Hole that was as beautiful and magical as I had expected. We then toured the area, went for a swim and returned to the marina. Being so cool, Scott and Mary had dinner plans with ‘other’ friends so the rest of us went to a local restaurant that had been recommended. We called for a taxi and Milton arrived ten minutes later. As we pulled up to a small, brightly colored building, we asked Milton about the return journey. ‘Ah Ronnie will call me when you are ready.’ Sounds good. We stepped out feeling a little unsure of our choice. We looked around the small residential street and walked towards the door. The owner, chef and waiter, Ronnie, welcomed us warmly and took us to our table - on the opposite side of the street where the large table balanced in the dust by the water. ‘Could we look at the menu?’we asked. ‘I am the menu’ Ronnie replied as he listed 20 items for us to choose from. Greg and Kathy had the lobster, I chose BBQ conch, and John, craving meat, ordered ribs. We all then enjoyed chatting and enjoying the view while Ronnie cooked the food. The waitress pulled up in her car and parked next to our table half an hour later. Apparently we should have called in advance to let Ronnie know we were coming. The waitress diligently brought silverware, mats and drinks and then food across the road. It was all absolutely delicious. Today was worth the 20 hour journey.


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