The Rose

25 June 2015 | Futuna to Vuda Point, Fiji
25 June 2015 | Futuna to Vuda Point, Fiji
23 June 2015 | Savu Savu to Futuna
23 June 2015 | Savu Savu to Futuna
27 May 2015 | Cobia Crater, Ringold Islands, Fiji
25 April 2015 | Horseshoe Bay, Matagi Island, Fiji
24 April 2015 | Naigani Island, Lomaviti, Fiji
22 April 2015 | Naigani Island, Lomaviti, Fiji
11 April 2015 | Vuda Point Marina, Viti Levu, Fiji
11 April 2015 | Vuda Point Marina, Viti Levu, Fiji
10 October 2014 | Vuda Point Marina, Viti Levu, Fiji
24 September 2014 | Yasawas, Fiji
24 September 2014 | Fiji
21 September 2014 | Bligh water, Fiji
21 September 2014 | Bligh water, Fiji
28 August 2014 | Ha'apai, Tonga
14 July 2014 | Vava'u, Tonga
13 July 2014 | Yanuca, Budds Reef, Fiji
27 June 2014 | North Bay, Matagi, Fiji
15 April 2014 | Vuda Point Marina, Viti Levu, Fiji

The Rose Vaipo Falls

16 May 2012
Patricia Gans
Dear Friends and Family, May 13th, 2012 Today's adventure is truly impossible to describe in words-- like trying to describe a color never seen before. Today we hiked into the lush verdant tropical forest to the third tallest water fall in the world --Vaipo. These falls lie inland on the island of Nuku Hiva in the Marqueses. This island itself is a series of dramatic cliffs dropping precipitously right into the edge of the sea and cut into deep chasms by the erosion of water opportunistically wherever it could wedge itself into and expand a fissure or root out tenaciously any soft or sandy vein. Raw edged partially collapsed volcano calderas predominate softened about the bases by valleys lush with fruit trees and coconut palms and wild vanilla and orchid. Interspersed across the valleys but hidden beneath and behind the canopy of foliage are scattered clusters of simple open air homes raised up from the dampness on foundations of volcanic rock and surrounded by garden. The jungle is continually hacked back to make space for cultivation and black lava rock walls attempt to hold that wild tangle of growth at bay. Connecting the clusters of homes is an ancient walking road criss-crossed by rivers, marked with cairns and densely shaded by hibiscus, mango, noni, banana, starfruit and coconut trees some whose trunks stand sedately wrapped in white veils of finest woven spider web. Leaving our dinghy high on the beach we hiked into this wild natural garden and continued along this inter-village highway for about two hours constantly marveling at the beauty which surrounded us before we could catch sight of Vaipo falls whose waters free fall wrecklessly an estimated 900 feet to a pool cut deeply in the rock by eons of pounding water. Steamy from the hike we couldn't resist stripping down and drifting into the cool fresh pool of water despite its complete opacity due to rain swept mud suspended throughout. For this opacity we should apparently be grateful since I have since been told that the pool is full of three foot long large mouthed and sharp toothed eels which although not aggressive can be more than slightly disturbing to swimmers. Ignorance is sometimes bliss. From this perspective the final crash of descending water is obscured by large volcanic rocks which appear to have crashed down some time in antiquity from above into the pool. Swimming toward the falls we passed between these large rocks and the side walls which ascended vertically to dizzying heights leaving only a narrow passage rushing with muddy water which provides access to the falls. The narrowness is brief and opens then widely into a light but cavernous vaulted room off to one side while forging on ahead a second narrow rushing passage leads to the falls themselves. At this point the water is thundering both against rock and into the pool. A narrow skylight framed by cliff face on three sides allows light and sunlight refracts through the sparkling water vapor which hangs in suspension rising and falling with the constant water crashing. As we gazed at the falls two long tailed white Phoenix-like tropical birds circled overhead like figments from a dream. We then plunged on up the last narrow rush of water squeezing itself between the rocky walls and still more spray and air than water after its rapid descent. The air was so saturated with spray that soon I felt unable to breathe at all and I gulped water that trickled down my nose and throat. It was hard swimming against the constant beat of the engulfing wetness and just as I began to feel completely lost to the vapor I welcomed the assistance of a strong young friend who in the midst of my trepidation took my arm and guided me the last few yards beneath the crashing fall and into the space behind. Now you might expect to find a hushed room behind the cascading water but this would be nothing like the truth. The room behind was not deep and the spray was everywhere vibrating in my ears, beating against my skin, flooding my lungs and sparkling in my eyes. Before me was the solid wall of volcanic rock unyielding and just behind me beat the falls simultaneously snatching my breath away and replacing the air with water. Above me water crashed in all directions falling heavy and fast like sheets of rain. Soon my overwhelmed senses left me completely giddy and I had to consciously slow my breath to master a little panic bubbling up from my drowning lungs. I wondered for an instant if I would be pummeled by the cascading water or sucked deep beneath it as I prepared to escape back out to the cavernous rock waiting room but almost before I had pushed off the rock and into the full impact of the falls and brown water flooded up over my eyes, I was out in the light and air of the corridor and moving easily into calm water. In that instant like the switch of a light the violent crashing world hidden behind the falls disappeared as quickly as a dream upon waking and I found myself bathed in the easy drifting and calm tranquility of the pool. Rain was falling and the boundaries blurred further between water and air but softly now and dreamily. We walked back two hours through the woods wet with rain and dripping leaves and river crossings, talking quietly, stepping softly through oozing mud and over slippery rock. We stopped to enjoy a perfect papaya and the juice from the papaya on our fingers and on our faces blended with the rest of the wetness. Completely soaked, we returned to the beach and the dinghy and the gently surging waves and slipped out into the water of the bay arriving back to our boat just before we felt we would dissolve completely. Grey cloud mizzled and merged with rain sprayed sea and the sun slipped unseen below the horizon as we sighed with the satisfied fatigue of another amazing day. We know our clothes will never fully dry here and our shoes will never be the same but then again neither will our hearts. With much reverence, Pat, John, Rebekah and Sushi, S/V The Rose
Comments
Vessel Name: The Rose
Vessel Make/Model: Kelly Peterson 46'
Hailing Port: Colorado Springs
Crew: Pat & John Gans and Mr. Sushi the pug

Who: Pat & John Gans and Mr. Sushi the pug
Port: Colorado Springs