Where Eagles Dare
18 June 2013
We had a great sail yesterday from Smaever. Unusually, a reach all the way in 10-15 knots just cruising along at 7 or 8 knots.
Since we did the bottom on Time Bandit, we seem to have picked up an extra knot which, when you're trying to go from one end of Europe to the other and back in one season is jolly handy.
The passage north was again weaving in and around the skerries and islands which gives a great kayakers close up view of the coastline. We've also had a wildlife day....
.Anne...."Stuart, quick, quick look. There's a seagull."
Stuart... "No, it's just another eagle"
We are definitely in eagle territory. One passed yesterday obviously on its way back from the shops as it had a fish in its paws. It's also breeding season for the other birds and the eagles are having a go for their chicks or maybe just scrambled egg. They don't seem to get much joy. As soon as they get near a nest (or a table by the window) they get mobbed by half a dozen or more parents who chase the poor thing off for miles.
We went ashore to the pub last night, prepared to splash out on a beer. The 150 year old farmhouse, now converted to a bar and restaurant with rooms above had just served dinner to a dozen cycle tourists. We arrived and the owner and his buddy the chef sat down with us for a chat and update on the local life.
Pretty tough running a tourist establishment when the season is so short and the economy is struggling. Despite this, they generously gave us poor Scots discounted beer, a side of smoked salmon and the offer of one of their cars for the day. Having only just commented in the previous 24 hours how reserved the Norwegians were it really made our day to see this refreshing level of friendliness and generosity.
Today, we motored in a flat calm and blazing sunshine to Brunnoysund, 30 miles further north. Same old deal, weaving in and out the islands. You can tell we are getting further north. The snow is back on the peaks.