After going through two opening bridges in Vänersborg we found a great marina. We went to the Hamnkantoor to pay and ended up on a bit of a spontaneous clothes-buying spree. The harbour master was very friendly and even gave us the laundry key so we could use it over night. It was Aidan's turn to cook, so we went out for dinner. We had a great meal at the local upmarket grill house.

The next morning we left at 9 as the bridges only start opening then. The Trollhättan Canal has commercial traffic and huge locks with long drops.
The first lock dropped us 5m in one step, after which we the got into a wide section of river and sailed on the Solent only for a while. At Trollhättan town, we had to wait about 20 minutes for a bridge. We stopped next to a coffee shop and had breakfast on the boat. The Trollhättan locks bypass what is a waterfall on the old river. 4 monster locks drop you a total of just over 32m, in 8m drops. These locks were a different technique, having to drop the lines onto successive deeper bollards set into the wall. What makes things a whole lot easier is the fact that the locks have a double bottom and drain from the bottom, so there is no turbulence.

I had imagined the canal to be industrial but it was actually beautiful countryside for 90% of the 80km. the bargain was that there was about 2.5 knots of river current to help us. This river drains all of Lake Vanern and a significant part of the central Swedish watershed. We also had a following wind most of the way so we were doing 8 knots most of the time without trying very hard. We knew we were going to be lucky to make it all the way into Göteborg. We had to make 2 opening bridges just before Göteborg. If we did not make the last one by 7pm, we would be stuck in an industrial wilderness. I stepped on the gas, we made the last 18h45 major railway line opening. We were so over eager to make the last bridge and there was a medium sized passenger boat coming the other way that gave the 5 blast. This is the marine equivalent of WTF are you doing. I did not think I was doing anything wrong as there was 30m width in the span and I was sure we could pass in it. However our traffic light remained stubbornly red just as we were getting up a full head of steam expecting it to change any minute. So much furious astern and then because there was a strong wind we got blown down on the crash barrier that said no mooring. No harm done, as we had fenders down. The light turned green and we got to the last bridge at 1 minute to 7pm. We were very thankful to see a red with a flashing white underneath it. The flashing white means they have seen you and are likely to respond. The bells rang, hundreds of cars, trucks and even trams stopped to let us through and we cruised in full evening sun into Lille Bommen guest harbour, creeping under the bowsprit of the magnificent square rigger Viking, that is now a floating hotel. We cracked a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc and kicked back, glowing from the sun on the skin all day.

All of us South Africans on the boat had been amazed and pleasantly surprised in Sweden as to the friendliness, and relaxed, welcoming vibe, with much commentary on how Sweden, and particularly mid-Sweden, was "Pleasantville". Well, Aidan and I went for a shower that night and there were some dodgy types hanging out, outside the shower block. As we walked back to the boat one of them started play-fighting with Aidan. He was pretending it was fun but it had an edge to it. He was doing pretend judo throw moves. Aidan and I did not overreact but I was ready to intervene. After a bit of messing around, he left again to join his mates. We then went out for a drink at the local bar run by an Iranian guy, Sayid who had come to Sweden as a refugee at the age of 17, been a stockbroker before retiring to the bar and restaurant business. We struck up a chord with him. When Aidan got back to the boat, he realized his watch was missing. He thought he had left it in the shower but when we unpacked the play-fighting incident that was of course a pickpocket distraction trick and clearly where the guy, who was probably a little high, got the watch off the arm in the judo hold. So Sweden is an absolutely brilliant place and even after reflection this made no dent on our overwhelmingly positive impression of the country and its friendly people. However, we should never let down the guard that Africa has taught us or as my old boss from Mississippi used to say, "A good cowboy never sits with his back to the door".

The next day was a day off. Veronica chilled and did a bit of boat cleaning (we did the outside later, so no sexism here). I worked on about mark III of the stern anchor system, with the help of Aidan. Thank you Aidan! This is a vast improvement but I have since realized I can do one more thing to make it even better. Aidan and I headed off to the Volvo museum, most interesting for the number of prototypes that we saw there and for the reminder about how they really were the innovators in car safety, including 3-point seat belts way before anyone else, not to mention crumple zones and ABS.

Mike and Irene arrived from Dubai, via Stockholm and for one night we were again 5 on the boat. I met them at the station and Veronica made an excellent fish pie, which was eclipsed by way too much wine in the over enthusiastic welcoming of the new crew. We were hoping to have a nightcap at the bar on the deck of the square-rigger Viking but when we got up there they were just closing. We had to go to Sayid's place for an Irish coffee.

On the Friday morning we said goodbye to Aidan and Veronica and slipped lines for the Kattegat and the Island of Læsø. After we picked our way out of the rock garden (not difficult as very well marked and following quite a few commercial vessels), it was about a 40NM single tack. A bit bumpy at times but we arrived at about 5pm in Vesterø. We were flying the Danish courtesy flag again, for the first time since about 6 or 7 July. The facilities were exceptional with little picnic tables in front of the berths. The island is beautiful with long sandy beaches and when we walked on them the next day we discovered that the water was remarkably warm.

As we type this, we are heading due south, destination Bønnerup on the little knob that sticks out of east Jutland. The sun is the only thing in the blue dome, shinning on a glittering sea and pumping power into those solar panels. We are having a ridiculously pleasant sail although; 2 knots more wind would be nice. Mike has been a pleasure, trimming sails to perfection and right now we are sailing at 4.8 to 5 knots, 35 degrees on the wind, realized out of 8 knots TWS.

Veronica is back in London for Tayo's 18th tomorrow and back on the boat out of Flensburg in northern Germany on about the 27 August. The GRIB file shows some stronger weather in the forecast, so we are trying to make some southing while we can, to give us more time to do short island hops or sit out some weather on a pleasant little island, as we get around the knob of Jutland and down the Lille Bælt.