Providence Island, 65 miles north of San Andres, more than 500 miles from the Colombian mainland, is such a tiny island (just a few miles long and 8.5 square miles in area) that arriving in the company of thirty other boats seemed like a bit a pitch invasion. A huge sheltered bay formed by the main island and the small sister island of Santa Catalina (linked to the main island by a colourful but ricketty pedestrian bridge) and backed by the high island hills provided our anchorage. The locals reported to us that they had never seen so many sailing boats anchored in their bay. Fortunately, they were all seemed delighted and visited the bay after dark to photograph the twinkling anchor lights out in the bay.
Santa Catalina Bridge
Admittedly, we caused a little congestion at the dinghy dock...
Dinghy Dock
Ashore in this bay is the main island town of Santa Isabella - with a town dock, a selection of small shops including some tiny supermarkets and a hospital. From here a single narrow paved road circles the island. The main form of transport are scooters. A 5,000 COP (£1.25) payment to the driver would get you anywhere on the island. For group travel there were a number of rugged jeeps with open backs and bench seating - or alternatively one could hire a battered golf cart for the day.
Perched above our anchorage on the Catalina side were the remains of old fortifications, topped with cannon - a testament to the struggles for control over the island.
Providencia Fortifications
It all started in 1629 when a boat carrying English and Dutch Puritans arrived on the island of Providence aboard the Seaflower (their more famous friends on the Mayflower landed in the US). The island was re-taken by the Spanish a few years later - and over the years slave trading and buccaneering mixed with a little unsuccessful agriculture have been the mainstays. Providencia is now a part of Colombia, but the British influence lives on with a high percentage of the population speaking English or an English based Creole. Some resent the fact that education here is in Spanish. It appears that the Colombian government sees the value of the island in terms of the territorial waters which it gives access to. Here was evidence to of government support for some small start up enterprises;- the ice cream shop was set up with government support, as was the small cinema and the footpaths into the countryside. The employment opportunities here are limited. Few tourists come here. We learned that a shocking percentage of the adult male population are incarcerated in foreign gaols for drugs offences.
Although this may make Providence sound unappealing, the actuality was a stunningly beautiful island; and the two weeks we spent here were hugely enjoyable.
Providencia Beach
After the faded mass tourism look of San Andres the unsophisticated and simple inexpensive pleasures on offer more than compensated for the frequent lack of fresh fruit and vegetables, and the almost complete lack of internet (both items having to be bought up from mainland Columbia - now over 500 miles away). Island exploration was easy and inexpensive;- the islanders are cheerfully friendly and helpful. There was always a small shack available where someone would light a fire and cook up some fish for a tasty lunch;- with the ubiquitous rice and beans.
Simple lunch at the beach
Often, though not necessarily, the location would be some beautiful palm backed strand of white sandy beach. On one such beach we found that horse racing took place at the weekend - very exciting).
Beach horse raacing
The waters around Providence were a beautiful turquoise. David, our much appreciated extra crew, learned to dive. We enjoyed snorkelling and were taken out in a curious shallow drafted catamaran by Robert who knew just where to go to find beautiful corals and huge shoals of blue tang, angel fish, parrot fish rand other wonderful brightly coloured fish species.
Snorkelling Day Out
One day we climbed the highest peak - a sweaty trek through light woodlands and cloud forest up to a spectacular 360 degree view of the island.
Climbing the Peak
Evening entertainment was mostly limited to sharing a beer, game playing or a simple meal - or all three - with rally friends. We started to find our feet amongst the rally;- I organised an evening trip to the tiny cinema to see a string of locally made films telling us more about the islands' history and culture. Twenty of us filled the cinema;- sea breezes blew in over the ocean facing balcony and the owner (who had made the films) brought us home made lemonade and tasty snacks.
Andy joined the weather committee who puzzled over the conundrum of when the winds would allow us to sail northwards towards the Bay Islands of Honduras. Winds were forecast to be against us or too slight to be useful;- and the distance of over 400 miles was too far to motor. To complicate the decision, this passage was deemed to be rather dangerous, with the seas off of Nicaragua and Honduras being used by drug smuggling pirates. To protect us the Colombian navy was standing by with a warship and wished us to sail soon. A further complication was that the authorities needed about 48 hours notice of departure to process all the paperwork. As a rally we subdivided down into small buddy groups for the sail. Boats of similar speed and capability to sail close to the wind were put together- to give mutual support.
At last a decision was made for departure. We checked out; Boat paperwork was completed, passports were stamped and early in the morning anchors were raised and the 35 sailing boats of the rally streamed out of the bay, sailing northwards.