Click here for link to relevant PhotpAlbum Sicily - South coast. This image was taken from the fort overlooking Cala del Sol, Licata.
Saturday dawned overcast and was cool, 16°C in 17 - 25kt east wind. We caught the bus up to Ragusa Ibla, the picturesque village perched around a deep ravine 23km north of the coastal town, Ragusa Di Marina. This is Montalbano country and anyone who has watched the TV series can easily recognize the famous landmarks. From the Marina, you can actually visit Montalbano's beautiful beach side house only a few km away.
Cathedral in Ragusa Alba
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That evening we had dinner in the fish restaurant in the top right hand corner of the small town square in Marina Di Ragusa. The square had a lovely atmosphere with families and groups of people fraternizing while kids kicked a football around or practised on their skateboards.
By Sunday morning the clouds had cleared away and it was bright and sunny in the SW wind. But by 10:00hrs, the wind had veered to the west and increased to 25kts. As this was on the beam, we had to tighten up our existing moorings and put a couple of extra lines out. While checking the engine, I found that there was sea water in one of the cylinders and in the sump. As this had happened a couple of times before, it was obvious that there was an underlying problem. I re-routed the hoses for the cooling water to be higher inside the engine box so that the syphon break was further above the water line. This appears to have worked as I have not had a problem since. The engine oil was changed as well.
That evening we joined the well-dressed locals as they promenaded along the water front and enjoyed a drink in the café by the old beacon tower.
Seafront at Marina di Ragusa
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On Monday morning, we collected a hire car at the marina office and over the next three days we visited Noto, Siracusa (stayed two nights) and Mt Etna.
We returned the car on Thursday morning and I did a bit of maintenance on the boat.
Friday 24 May. After topping up the water tanks and paying our bill, we motored out of Marina Di Ragusa. It was sunny, calm sea and no wind. The voyage to Licata was a story of motor sailing in light winds that increased and seemed colder by late afternoon. Berthing in Marina del Sole, Licata was not easy in a 16kt crosswind. Fortunately, Allesandro from the marina, was able to assist in his RIB. We stayed three nights there wandering around the town. Apart from a very good fruit and vegetable shop and the Roman fort, Castello Saint Angelo, overlooking the town, there was not much to get excited about. I did manage to get an Italian data SIM card from the helpful girls in the supermarket.
The next leg from Licata to San Leone was not pleasant. There was a lumpy left over swell from the south and the wind was light, forward of the beam and intermittent. It was also very rolly in the entrance to the marina. Fortunately, it was a relatively short leg and lasted only four hours. There were no other visiting boats although there was plenty of room.
At sea
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That evening we went to the Il Pescatore Restaurant - very good seafood but not cheap.
From San Leone we caught the bus to the Valley of the Temples. Amazing! The name says it all.
Wednesday 29 May. At 11:15hrs, we cast off and motored in no wind to Siacca. The wind picked up late afternoon and was rather cold. It blew from the west all day Thursday and was stronger than forecast - up to 21kts. It is a bit of a hike up the hill to the old town but it is worth it. We visited the beautiful Basilica Maria Santissima del Soccorso and enjoyed a very good lunch in Trattoria le Matrice in the square opposite the Basilica.
Sciacca harbour is open to the west and swell gets into the harbour. That plus the fishing boats trundling past can make it a bit uncomfortable.
Next port of call was Mazlara del Vallo. This was another slog; motor sailing to windward. We set off from Sciacca at 05:00hrs and by 14:45hrs we were moored stern-to inside the pontoon at Anide Marina. We were helped into our berth by a friendly Marino. The wind died out during the evening as we had dinner on board.
Beating to windward
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Saturday 01 June was sunny with clear skies but still cool in a 5 to 10kt NW wind. During the morning we were spectators to a civil emergency services drill on the next pontoon. Red distress flares, orange smoke, Coast Guard boat (with siren and water canon), air rescue helicopter (lots of noise), fire brigade (more sirens), ambulance (sirens, of course), fire fighting demo, ambulance rescue. The Full Monty. Beats television.
In the evening, we strolled along the beach front. There were two weddings in progress - lots of dark suits and OTT dresses. I bought a 5Euro watch (which has kept perfect time) from a stall in a nice street of shops. After walking through the Arab Quarter, we had a very good meal in the Trattoria closest to the port. An eventful day!
We set off from Mazara del Vallo at 08:35hrs, heading to Mothia. It was the usual story - motoring in no wind. It was another relatively short leg. We phoned ahead to make sure they had room for us and by11:30 we were moored stern-to inside the west pontoon in Mothia Marina, Marsala. As with everywhere along this coast there was a helpful marino in attendance to assist in berthing.
Sunset in Marsala
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After a quiet day in port and doing a bit of sight seeing, we departed from Marsala at 11:30hrs and motored to Marettimo, in the Egadi Islands off the west tip of Sicily, arriving by 15:30hrs.
This is a beautiful little village, population less than 700 with a family run marina. It is one of those places when the arrival and departure of the fast-cat ferry from the mainland is an event.
Marettimo harbour
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However, next morning, Wednesday 05 June, the forecast was predicting strong winds from the south east, from which direction the harbour is exposed. The Marinoes were going around and advising yachts to vacate the harbour. We were a bit disappointed as we would have liked to stay a couple of days.
Anyway we had an enjoyable sail in warmer conditions for the 21 miles to Trapani. I phoned ahead to reserve a berth in one of the marinas in Trapani. We arrived at lunch time; so there was no Marino at Arturo Artile Marina to direct us when we arrived. We slotted into a vacant berth. This was the marina that we stayed in in 2011 on our way down to Greece. We settled down in the warm sunshine and enjoyed our lunch.
At 16:00hrs, we received an emergency call from Vento di Maestrale. We had gone to the wrong marina. Judy quickly apologised to Arturo Artile Marine and we moved to Vento di Maestrale Marina. This marina is smarter, more up-market and is much closer to the centre of Trapani. When we arrived there was a difficult cross wind but there was the inevitable Marino in a RIB to assist.
This marina is next door to the fishing harbour and its attendant fish market. In addition to the big commercial market, you can buy fish directly from the stern of smaller fishing boats. On the quay, there is a cheap vegetable market selling loads of lovely fresh fruit and produce. We bought a couple of fresh sea bass that we had on board Thursday night after exploring Trapani during the day.
Trapani fishing boats
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On Friday, we caught a bus across the city and rode the cable car up to the ancient hill top of Erice. It is a fascinating place with incredible views.
Next morning, Saturday 8 June, I saw Judy off on the shuttle mini-van to Palermo airport on her way back home. I pottered around on TB, doing some maibtenance and provisioning up for the naxt stage of our voyage - the crossing to Cagliari in Sardinia. David W. rolled in after lunch and next morning he hired a car and collected John C. from Palermo airport.