Cruising to Greece and back.
After sailing back from Greece to Portishead, in October 2019 Tobin Bronze was transported back to Wadswick for a major re-fit. In July 2022, TB was re-launched into Portishead Marina.
| Vessel Name: | Tobin Bronze |
| Vessel Make/Model: | 35ft cold moulded plywood sloop |
| Hailing Port: | Bristol |
| Crew: | Peter and Judy Ward |
| About: |
31 December 2023
24 October 2019 | Portishead Entrance Lock
09 July 2019
02 July 2019
08 June 2019
12 May 2019
27 November 2018
30 June 2018
18 November 2017
21 June 2017
03 July 2016 | Agmar Marine Boatyard. Partheni, Island of Leros
30 October 2015
01 October 2014 | Kilada to Orei
25 November 2013
19 July 2013
26 June 2013 | Koilada
01 December 2012
01 November 2012 | Koilada
25 October 2011
29 September 2011
Recent Blog Posts
24 October 2019 | Portishead Entrance Lock
Last leg - La Rochelle to Portishead
Click here for link to relevant PhotpAlbum La Rochelle to Portishead. Portishead Entrance Lock.
09 July 2019
Corsica west coast & French coast to Herault River
Click here for link to relevant PhotpAlbum Corsica. View from town overlooking harbour at Cargese.
02 July 2019
2019 Sardinia - West coast
Click here for link to relevant PhotpAlbum Sardinia . A screen-shot of the track across Tyrrhenian Sea
08 June 2019
Sicily south coast
Click here for link to relevant PhotpAlbum Sicily - South coast. This image was taken from the fort overlooking Cala del Sol, Licata.
12 May 2019
2019 Return from Malta to Portishead
Click here for link to relevant PhotpAlbum Spring 2019 Malta. This image is taken from the top of Kalkara Creek.
2018 Autumn. Leros to Malta
27 November 2018
Click here for link for relevant PhotoAlbum Autumn 2018. This image taken from Tobin Bronze as we entered the Grand Harbour, Valetta.
Autumn 2018: Leros to Malta.
Chartlet Leros to Malta.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
For possibly the last time, Judy and I returned to Leros in Greece, departing from Chapel Plaister on Thursday30 August 2018. Leros is not a particularly large island (about 20 sq.miles) and a permanent population of around 8000 people. It has not been heavily infested by tourism as has happened to places like Kos and Mykonos. It has a very Greek atmosphere and the locals are friendly, honest and welcoming. We have kept the boat there since June 2016 and greatly enjoyed the island and the surrounding Dodecanese Island group.
We were returning to launch Tobin Bronze back into the water and start the return voyage, which will eventually bring TB back to Bristol. We took the usual route - train to Gatwick, Easyjet to Kos, overnight in Mastihari, small ferry to Kalymnos and the fast Seacat to Agia Marina on Leros. After a quick lunch in Agia Marina, the taxi dropped us off at Agmar Marine by the airport at Partheni just after 14:00hrs.
That evening we went across the island to Nicos taverna at Alinda and enjoyed a meal of fresh fish. The taverna is right on the water's edge with a view across the bay of Agia Marina and the Kastro on the hill behind it.
Next morning, Kevin and Lesley arrived on the flight from Athens at 10:30. Tobin Bronze was already on its way to the slip on the boat transporter when they arrived. As the boat was lowed into the water, as usual I checked all the skin fittings for any leaks. I wasn't pleased to see that there was a slight leak at the toilet inlet skin fitting. Rather optimistically, I thought I would give it half a turn to tighten it. Big mistake! The nut twisted off. I quickly found a spare bolt but could not fit it as the fitting was under the sling supporting the boat. There was no other option but to take TB back into the yard and support it in it's cradle.
Unfortunately, this was Saturday morning and the boat launch crew finished at mid-day. So we were not going anywhere until Monday.
We hired a car for a couple of days and rented two apartments in Artemis Apartments in Alinda.
Tourists ashore.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
On Sunday morning it did not take me long to remove and re-bed the sea water inlet in high strength mastic and install four new stainless steel bolts. The other three bronze bolts also sheared as I was removing them. The rest of the day was spent lazing around Alinda - no great hardship.
I was at the yard bright and early Monday morning but we were at the end of the queue for launching. However we were in the water by 13:15hrs and with everyone on board, we set course for Levitha. For the first couple of hours, we had a great sail but then the wind veered to the north west and threw up a lumpy sea on the beam. Most uncomfortable. Lesley became very sea-sick and unfortunately took refuge in the forecastle - the worst place for a sea-sick person. By the time we got to Levitha at 17:30hrs, she was really suffering.
All the moorings were occupied and we made a couple of unsuccessful attempts to anchor outside the moorings area but it was very poor holding and quite windy. The alternative anchorage was down at the other end of the bay to the west. There was much better shelter there.
I used a trick from the offshore oil industry and piggy-backed the spare Bruce anchor to the Fortress main anchor and let out all the chain. With this lot out, we weren't going to drag!
Next morning, Lesley was much improved but still not 100%. During the early hours, the wind picked up to around 30kts for a couple of hours but by mid-morning was down to 10 - 12 knots. We decided to stay at Levitha for another day to give the sea state time to moderate and to give us the opportunity to go up to the farmhouse for dinner that night.
Levitha anchorage.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
We set sail from the island at 08:30hrs next morning and motored west towards the Nisos Koufonisia, passing to the south of Kinaros and the north of Amorgos. At Koufonisia Marina, the attendant passed lazy lines to us and there was water and electricity on the quay. There were quite a few tourists around but is a nice town. We took advantage of the plentiful supply of good fresh water to fill both tanks and to give TB a good wash down.
At 11:30hrs, next morning, Thursday 6 Sept., we set sail from Koufonisia in 16 kts of wind from the NNE. We had a nice run under genoa alone south of Kati Koufonisia, around the north end of Nisos Skhinousa and south down the west coast. The wind dropped at 12:45hrs and we motored into the small port of Mirsini. There was a bit of a cross wind which made going astern difficult and almost impossible for Tobin Bronze who wont't go astern in a straight line if there is a cross wind. We ended up going bows to the quay to make life easier for ourselves.
Mirsini Bay.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
The merit of this decision was illustrated an hour or so later when a Serbian charter was trying to moor. To say they stuffed it up would be an understatement! The skipper didn't have a clue on how to manoeuvre and caused havoc for 30 minutes or so. Great entertainment - except that they pulled up our anchor at one stage and we had to go out and re-set it.
We got chatting to a young Greek guy who was skippering a charter RIB, moored next to us. He called a local garage who then delivered a couple of camping gas bottles down to the quay for us. He also advised us on some pleasant anchorages in the surrounding islands. Mirsini bay is a very unspoilt and is used as a port for the Chora which is a kilometre or so up the hill. It only gets busy when the ferry calls in.
On Friday morning, Judy, Kevin and Lesley went for a stroll up the hill to the Chora while the skipper did some maintenance. While TB had been out of the water, some wasps or some other insects had taken up residence in the sea water hose to the sink. They made a very effective plug, which kept blocking the pump. Eventually, it was all cleaned out.
Chora view from bar.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
We departed the harbour at 11:00hrs and motored on a flat sea around the south coast of Nisos Irakalia to a bay near Avelonisa Pt at the SW tip of Irakalia. We anchored in about 6 metres of water at 12:30hrs for a lunch stop. It was a beautiful deserted bay with a nice beach. The Greek guy from Mirsini had told us about the wreck of a WW2 fighter plane which was lying in about 8 metres of water. We snorkled over and could see it and its twin cockpits quite clearly. The crew (from Tobin Bronze) also enjoyed a pleasant swim ashore to the beach. I would imagine that the crew from the fighter plane would have been quite relieved as well to swim ashore! You cannot help wondering what happened to them.
Lunch stop. Irakalia.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
Crew returning from beach.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
After a couple of hours, we picked up the anchor and continued motoring north around the island of Ios and into Skala Sikinos on the east side of Nisos Sikinos. This was another small port mainly used as a staging point for ferries. We anchored and then rowed a line ashore to the north side. Although well protected to the north, the anchorage is open to the south and the east. Even after a couple of days of light northerly winds, the residual swell swept around the island and caused the boat to roll a bit during the night.
Taking mooring line ashore.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
Saturday 8 Sept. After a leisurely breakfast, we set off at 08:30hrs, passing to the north of Folegandros to Nisos Poliagos, near Milos. We anchored for lunch in the protected bay inside the island of Manolonisi. This was a bay of crystal clear water, clean white sandstone and sandy beaches. As it was a Saturday and the bay is located not far from Milos, there we a dozen or so motor boats anchored in the bay but there was plenty of room for everyone. This was another spot recommended by our friend from Mirsini.
We stayed anchored until 16:00hrs when we moved a few miles across the strait to Port Psathi on Nisos Kinolos. We went alongside the nice convenient spot just inside the south breakwater. In the evening, we walked up the Chora and enjoyed a few beers (and on ouzo or two) while taking in the great view from the balcony of the taverna.
Berth in Psathi harbour, Kinolos.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
We had dinner back on board. Pasthi is a busy port with ferries of all sizes coming and going.
We cast off fom Psathi at 10:45hrs next morning and then had an excellent sail in 15kts of wind to Adhamas on Nisos Milos. The bay in Milos is surrounded almost entirely by land and was formed from the crater of an extinct volcano. It is a busy place. The marina is a popular place with water, fuel and electricity available but there are no toilets and showers. For the price of a cup of coffee or an icecream, we used the toilets in the Cafes across the road.
Adhamas Marina, Milos.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
We had sailed 145Nm from Leros and visited eight islands.
As one does in Milos, we made the pilgrimage in the evening up to the Chora to admire the sunset. However to get a good vantage point in any of the bars or tavernas, you would need to get there earlier than we did. It was very busy with loads of tourists but definitely worth it. We gad an enjoyable meal in one of the tavernas there. We took a taxi up and the bus back down.
Sunset from Chora, Milos.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
Sunset Milos.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
Monday 10 Sept was the last full day for the crew; so we caught the bus across to the SE side of Milos to the beach. A swim, a bit of tanning in the sun, lunch in the taverna, a bit more tanning (sleeping) on the beach made for a relaxing day.
Milos beach.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
That evening we strolled east around the bay away from the main town to where there are some very good tavernas on the water's edge. It was a very pleasant evening.
Judy, Kevin and Lesley caught the Seacats fast ferry to Pireaus at 10:55hrs on Tuesday morning. An hour late, David and Roger arrived on another ferry from Athens after travelling overnight from London.
I had originally planned not to leave for a day or two to give them a chance to catch up on lost sleep. However the weather forecast for the next week or so was ominous with strong winds developing on Wednesday and continuing for several days. Cape Maleas was 65 Nm away and that famous cape has a reputation worthy of its name. We decided it would be best to be around Cape Maleas, out of the Aegean and into the Kithera Strait before the strong winds arrived.
As it turned out, it was a good thing we did leave straight away. There were very strong northerly winds all over the Aegean, starting the next day and continuing for nearly a week.
We did a quick shop for provisions and prepared the boat for a night passage. We dropped the No.1 genoa and replaced with the smaller No.2. It was very helpful having a couple of experienced crew who are familiar with Tobin Bronze.
We cast off at 17:50hrs and motored out of the bay. An hour later we passed Vani Pt on NW Milos in no wind and a flat sea. There was practically no wind until after mid-night when we were able to let out the genoa and motor sail. It was a pleasant evening, with the odd sailboat around and a steady steam of shipping heading to and from Cape Maleas but all a considerable distance away to the west.
After mid-night we were able to watch a fairly active thunderstorm to the west over the Peleponnese. It appeared to be slowly tracking south towards Cape Maleas and we watched its path with a high level of interest. At 02:00hrs we were 17Nm, bearing 247deg to Cape Maleas way point and heading on a convergence with the storm.
At 03:20hrs, we sailed into the storm. One minute the wind was 15 kts on the starboard beam and the next it was gusting to 40kts. The wind and waves hit with a crash that shook the boat. We probably set a time record in reducing the genoa to about 50%. It was certainly noisy!
Fortunately, we could still sail our course and sail pretty quickly as well. One thing that was quite noteworthy was that even though plenty of sea water was coming over the boat, the water felt quite warm. The wind stayed at 30 - 35kts for the next hour before slowly coming down.
By 04:45hrs, we were past the WP at Cape Maleas in the lee of the land and the wind was down to 15kts. There was a constant stream of shipping both east going and west going past Cape Maleas but we were able to stay inshore and out of their way. Tranquillity restored and the off duty sailors getting in some serious zzzs.
A couple of hours later we dropped the anchor in 4.0m of water off the beach in beautiful Elfanosis Bay.
Elfanosis Bay, Southern Peleponnese.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
We had sailed 79.4Nm from Milos. After a relaxing morning and a pleasant lunch, we sailed off at 12:30hrs to Porto Kayio on the SE corner of the Mani Peninsular. This enclosed bay has a small settlement of no more that 20 buildings, including a couple of tavernas right on the beach.
Porto Kayio, Mani Peninsular.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
After a run ashore in the evening, next day we visited the Dyros Caves on the other side of the Mani before having a slog into the wind to the anchorage at Koroni. David was extremely pleased to find a Turkish barber in the town, who gave him a shave for a few Euros. The other two scruffs in the crew were more interested in finding a taverna for a couple of beers and a meal.
The next morning, Friday 14 Sept, was overcast but without any wind. By 09:45, we were motoring south towards Ak Akritas and then north west towards Methoni. It was only a few miles and within three hours we were anchored off the ancient fort at Methoni. Homer mentioned Methoni as being "rich in vines" and the Venetians built a walled fort to guard their important shipping routes round the Peleponnese and into the Aegean. From the fort, it is easy to imaging how important it must have been over the centuries.
Venetian Fort, Methoni.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
We needed to top up the diesel in preparation for the extended trip to Malta. Roger and David went off with the fuel can to the garage a kilometre or so out of town. A kind Greek guy took pity on these two old codgers struggling along the road. He picked them up in his car, took them to the garage and then brought them back to the dinghy on the beach.
We had a very good meal at a family run taverna in the village. David was proving very useful by using his extensive experience in Greece by sniffing out good tavernas and watering holes. It's a talent!
We thought we would leave Greece in style by picking up the anchor under sail at mid day and sailing out of the anchorage. But the wind didn't last long and we were soon motor sailing. So we set our course of 260 deg, 350Nm to Malta. We dropped the no.2 genoa and hoisted the no.1 but still had to motor sail all afternoon and into the evening.
Onboard dining.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
At 21:30hrs, the engine alarm sounded and caused a bit of consternation in the crew. Fortunately, it was only because the fan belt had broken. This was quickly replaced. By this time there was a bit of wind around and under full main and no.1 genoa, we were able to make 5.5kts on the required course for the next 12 hours. It was pleasant sailing.
Sunrise at sea.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
At 09:30hrs Sunday morning, the apparent wind was below 9 knots and it was back to motoring. Twelve hours later, we passed the half way point with 175Nm left to run. During the afternoon, we encountered a few dolphins and turtles, which broke the monotony.
That evening, we motored through the big ship anchorage 20 miles offshore to the east of Malta. As we were not expecting this, it was confusing at first and felt almost strange to find over 50 ships anchored out of sight of land. At mid-night, we called Valetta Port Control on the VHF to report our arrival 10Nm from Valetta break-water.
At 01:40hrs Greek time (00:40hrs Malta time), we dropped anchor in Rinella Creek, to the south just inside Valetta harbour. After a relaxing cold beer, we all turned in for some peaceful sleep. In the morning, we had a sight seeing cruise around Valetta harbour, enjoying the hustle and the bustle. It is a busy place. We then made our way into Kalkara Marina when the attendants helped us to berth stern. End of voyage.
Grand Harbour, Valetta.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
For the year we had sailed 850Nm in total.
Early summer - 186Nm
Leros - Milos 145Nm
Milos - Methoni 169Nm
Methoni - Malta 350Nm
David and Roger went sight-seeing for a couple of days before leaving at 07:30hrs on Friday 21 Sept. I carried on with the usual repairs and maintenance before lifting out into the yard on Monday morning and flying back to London on Tuesday morning.
Autumn 2018: Leros to Malta.
Chartlet Leros to Malta.Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
For possibly the last time, Judy and I returned to Leros in Greece, departing from Chapel Plaister on Thursday30 August 2018. Leros is not a particularly large island (about 20 sq.miles) and a permanent population of around 8000 people. It has not been heavily infested by tourism as has happened to places like Kos and Mykonos. It has a very Greek atmosphere and the locals are friendly, honest and welcoming. We have kept the boat there since June 2016 and greatly enjoyed the island and the surrounding Dodecanese Island group.
We were returning to launch Tobin Bronze back into the water and start the return voyage, which will eventually bring TB back to Bristol. We took the usual route - train to Gatwick, Easyjet to Kos, overnight in Mastihari, small ferry to Kalymnos and the fast Seacat to Agia Marina on Leros. After a quick lunch in Agia Marina, the taxi dropped us off at Agmar Marine by the airport at Partheni just after 14:00hrs.
That evening we went across the island to Nicos taverna at Alinda and enjoyed a meal of fresh fish. The taverna is right on the water's edge with a view across the bay of Agia Marina and the Kastro on the hill behind it.
Next morning, Kevin and Lesley arrived on the flight from Athens at 10:30. Tobin Bronze was already on its way to the slip on the boat transporter when they arrived. As the boat was lowed into the water, as usual I checked all the skin fittings for any leaks. I wasn't pleased to see that there was a slight leak at the toilet inlet skin fitting. Rather optimistically, I thought I would give it half a turn to tighten it. Big mistake! The nut twisted off. I quickly found a spare bolt but could not fit it as the fitting was under the sling supporting the boat. There was no other option but to take TB back into the yard and support it in it's cradle.
Unfortunately, this was Saturday morning and the boat launch crew finished at mid-day. So we were not going anywhere until Monday.
We hired a car for a couple of days and rented two apartments in Artemis Apartments in Alinda.
Tourists ashore.Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
On Sunday morning it did not take me long to remove and re-bed the sea water inlet in high strength mastic and install four new stainless steel bolts. The other three bronze bolts also sheared as I was removing them. The rest of the day was spent lazing around Alinda - no great hardship.
I was at the yard bright and early Monday morning but we were at the end of the queue for launching. However we were in the water by 13:15hrs and with everyone on board, we set course for Levitha. For the first couple of hours, we had a great sail but then the wind veered to the north west and threw up a lumpy sea on the beam. Most uncomfortable. Lesley became very sea-sick and unfortunately took refuge in the forecastle - the worst place for a sea-sick person. By the time we got to Levitha at 17:30hrs, she was really suffering.
All the moorings were occupied and we made a couple of unsuccessful attempts to anchor outside the moorings area but it was very poor holding and quite windy. The alternative anchorage was down at the other end of the bay to the west. There was much better shelter there.
I used a trick from the offshore oil industry and piggy-backed the spare Bruce anchor to the Fortress main anchor and let out all the chain. With this lot out, we weren't going to drag!
Next morning, Lesley was much improved but still not 100%. During the early hours, the wind picked up to around 30kts for a couple of hours but by mid-morning was down to 10 - 12 knots. We decided to stay at Levitha for another day to give the sea state time to moderate and to give us the opportunity to go up to the farmhouse for dinner that night.
Levitha anchorage.Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
We set sail from the island at 08:30hrs next morning and motored west towards the Nisos Koufonisia, passing to the south of Kinaros and the north of Amorgos. At Koufonisia Marina, the attendant passed lazy lines to us and there was water and electricity on the quay. There were quite a few tourists around but is a nice town. We took advantage of the plentiful supply of good fresh water to fill both tanks and to give TB a good wash down.
At 11:30hrs, next morning, Thursday 6 Sept., we set sail from Koufonisia in 16 kts of wind from the NNE. We had a nice run under genoa alone south of Kati Koufonisia, around the north end of Nisos Skhinousa and south down the west coast. The wind dropped at 12:45hrs and we motored into the small port of Mirsini. There was a bit of a cross wind which made going astern difficult and almost impossible for Tobin Bronze who wont't go astern in a straight line if there is a cross wind. We ended up going bows to the quay to make life easier for ourselves.
Mirsini Bay.Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
The merit of this decision was illustrated an hour or so later when a Serbian charter was trying to moor. To say they stuffed it up would be an understatement! The skipper didn't have a clue on how to manoeuvre and caused havoc for 30 minutes or so. Great entertainment - except that they pulled up our anchor at one stage and we had to go out and re-set it.
We got chatting to a young Greek guy who was skippering a charter RIB, moored next to us. He called a local garage who then delivered a couple of camping gas bottles down to the quay for us. He also advised us on some pleasant anchorages in the surrounding islands. Mirsini bay is a very unspoilt and is used as a port for the Chora which is a kilometre or so up the hill. It only gets busy when the ferry calls in.
On Friday morning, Judy, Kevin and Lesley went for a stroll up the hill to the Chora while the skipper did some maintenance. While TB had been out of the water, some wasps or some other insects had taken up residence in the sea water hose to the sink. They made a very effective plug, which kept blocking the pump. Eventually, it was all cleaned out.
Chora view from bar.Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
We departed the harbour at 11:00hrs and motored on a flat sea around the south coast of Nisos Irakalia to a bay near Avelonisa Pt at the SW tip of Irakalia. We anchored in about 6 metres of water at 12:30hrs for a lunch stop. It was a beautiful deserted bay with a nice beach. The Greek guy from Mirsini had told us about the wreck of a WW2 fighter plane which was lying in about 8 metres of water. We snorkled over and could see it and its twin cockpits quite clearly. The crew (from Tobin Bronze) also enjoyed a pleasant swim ashore to the beach. I would imagine that the crew from the fighter plane would have been quite relieved as well to swim ashore! You cannot help wondering what happened to them.
Lunch stop. Irakalia.Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
Crew returning from beach.Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
After a couple of hours, we picked up the anchor and continued motoring north around the island of Ios and into Skala Sikinos on the east side of Nisos Sikinos. This was another small port mainly used as a staging point for ferries. We anchored and then rowed a line ashore to the north side. Although well protected to the north, the anchorage is open to the south and the east. Even after a couple of days of light northerly winds, the residual swell swept around the island and caused the boat to roll a bit during the night.
Taking mooring line ashore.Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
Saturday 8 Sept. After a leisurely breakfast, we set off at 08:30hrs, passing to the north of Folegandros to Nisos Poliagos, near Milos. We anchored for lunch in the protected bay inside the island of Manolonisi. This was a bay of crystal clear water, clean white sandstone and sandy beaches. As it was a Saturday and the bay is located not far from Milos, there we a dozen or so motor boats anchored in the bay but there was plenty of room for everyone. This was another spot recommended by our friend from Mirsini.
We stayed anchored until 16:00hrs when we moved a few miles across the strait to Port Psathi on Nisos Kinolos. We went alongside the nice convenient spot just inside the south breakwater. In the evening, we walked up the Chora and enjoyed a few beers (and on ouzo or two) while taking in the great view from the balcony of the taverna.
Berth in Psathi harbour, Kinolos.Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
We had dinner back on board. Pasthi is a busy port with ferries of all sizes coming and going.
We cast off fom Psathi at 10:45hrs next morning and then had an excellent sail in 15kts of wind to Adhamas on Nisos Milos. The bay in Milos is surrounded almost entirely by land and was formed from the crater of an extinct volcano. It is a busy place. The marina is a popular place with water, fuel and electricity available but there are no toilets and showers. For the price of a cup of coffee or an icecream, we used the toilets in the Cafes across the road.
Adhamas Marina, Milos.Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
We had sailed 145Nm from Leros and visited eight islands.
As one does in Milos, we made the pilgrimage in the evening up to the Chora to admire the sunset. However to get a good vantage point in any of the bars or tavernas, you would need to get there earlier than we did. It was very busy with loads of tourists but definitely worth it. We gad an enjoyable meal in one of the tavernas there. We took a taxi up and the bus back down.
Sunset from Chora, Milos.Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
Sunset Milos.Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
Monday 10 Sept was the last full day for the crew; so we caught the bus across to the SE side of Milos to the beach. A swim, a bit of tanning in the sun, lunch in the taverna, a bit more tanning (sleeping) on the beach made for a relaxing day.
Milos beach.Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
That evening we strolled east around the bay away from the main town to where there are some very good tavernas on the water's edge. It was a very pleasant evening.
Judy, Kevin and Lesley caught the Seacats fast ferry to Pireaus at 10:55hrs on Tuesday morning. An hour late, David and Roger arrived on another ferry from Athens after travelling overnight from London.
I had originally planned not to leave for a day or two to give them a chance to catch up on lost sleep. However the weather forecast for the next week or so was ominous with strong winds developing on Wednesday and continuing for several days. Cape Maleas was 65 Nm away and that famous cape has a reputation worthy of its name. We decided it would be best to be around Cape Maleas, out of the Aegean and into the Kithera Strait before the strong winds arrived.
As it turned out, it was a good thing we did leave straight away. There were very strong northerly winds all over the Aegean, starting the next day and continuing for nearly a week.
We did a quick shop for provisions and prepared the boat for a night passage. We dropped the No.1 genoa and replaced with the smaller No.2. It was very helpful having a couple of experienced crew who are familiar with Tobin Bronze.
We cast off at 17:50hrs and motored out of the bay. An hour later we passed Vani Pt on NW Milos in no wind and a flat sea. There was practically no wind until after mid-night when we were able to let out the genoa and motor sail. It was a pleasant evening, with the odd sailboat around and a steady steam of shipping heading to and from Cape Maleas but all a considerable distance away to the west.
After mid-night we were able to watch a fairly active thunderstorm to the west over the Peleponnese. It appeared to be slowly tracking south towards Cape Maleas and we watched its path with a high level of interest. At 02:00hrs we were 17Nm, bearing 247deg to Cape Maleas way point and heading on a convergence with the storm.
At 03:20hrs, we sailed into the storm. One minute the wind was 15 kts on the starboard beam and the next it was gusting to 40kts. The wind and waves hit with a crash that shook the boat. We probably set a time record in reducing the genoa to about 50%. It was certainly noisy!
Fortunately, we could still sail our course and sail pretty quickly as well. One thing that was quite noteworthy was that even though plenty of sea water was coming over the boat, the water felt quite warm. The wind stayed at 30 - 35kts for the next hour before slowly coming down.
By 04:45hrs, we were past the WP at Cape Maleas in the lee of the land and the wind was down to 15kts. There was a constant stream of shipping both east going and west going past Cape Maleas but we were able to stay inshore and out of their way. Tranquillity restored and the off duty sailors getting in some serious zzzs.
A couple of hours later we dropped the anchor in 4.0m of water off the beach in beautiful Elfanosis Bay.
Elfanosis Bay, Southern Peleponnese.Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
We had sailed 79.4Nm from Milos. After a relaxing morning and a pleasant lunch, we sailed off at 12:30hrs to Porto Kayio on the SE corner of the Mani Peninsular. This enclosed bay has a small settlement of no more that 20 buildings, including a couple of tavernas right on the beach.
Porto Kayio, Mani Peninsular.Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
After a run ashore in the evening, next day we visited the Dyros Caves on the other side of the Mani before having a slog into the wind to the anchorage at Koroni. David was extremely pleased to find a Turkish barber in the town, who gave him a shave for a few Euros. The other two scruffs in the crew were more interested in finding a taverna for a couple of beers and a meal.
The next morning, Friday 14 Sept, was overcast but without any wind. By 09:45, we were motoring south towards Ak Akritas and then north west towards Methoni. It was only a few miles and within three hours we were anchored off the ancient fort at Methoni. Homer mentioned Methoni as being "rich in vines" and the Venetians built a walled fort to guard their important shipping routes round the Peleponnese and into the Aegean. From the fort, it is easy to imaging how important it must have been over the centuries.
Venetian Fort, Methoni.Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
We needed to top up the diesel in preparation for the extended trip to Malta. Roger and David went off with the fuel can to the garage a kilometre or so out of town. A kind Greek guy took pity on these two old codgers struggling along the road. He picked them up in his car, took them to the garage and then brought them back to the dinghy on the beach.
We had a very good meal at a family run taverna in the village. David was proving very useful by using his extensive experience in Greece by sniffing out good tavernas and watering holes. It's a talent!
We thought we would leave Greece in style by picking up the anchor under sail at mid day and sailing out of the anchorage. But the wind didn't last long and we were soon motor sailing. So we set our course of 260 deg, 350Nm to Malta. We dropped the no.2 genoa and hoisted the no.1 but still had to motor sail all afternoon and into the evening.
Onboard dining.Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
At 21:30hrs, the engine alarm sounded and caused a bit of consternation in the crew. Fortunately, it was only because the fan belt had broken. This was quickly replaced. By this time there was a bit of wind around and under full main and no.1 genoa, we were able to make 5.5kts on the required course for the next 12 hours. It was pleasant sailing.
Sunrise at sea.Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
At 09:30hrs Sunday morning, the apparent wind was below 9 knots and it was back to motoring. Twelve hours later, we passed the half way point with 175Nm left to run. During the afternoon, we encountered a few dolphins and turtles, which broke the monotony.
That evening, we motored through the big ship anchorage 20 miles offshore to the east of Malta. As we were not expecting this, it was confusing at first and felt almost strange to find over 50 ships anchored out of sight of land. At mid-night, we called Valetta Port Control on the VHF to report our arrival 10Nm from Valetta break-water.
At 01:40hrs Greek time (00:40hrs Malta time), we dropped anchor in Rinella Creek, to the south just inside Valetta harbour. After a relaxing cold beer, we all turned in for some peaceful sleep. In the morning, we had a sight seeing cruise around Valetta harbour, enjoying the hustle and the bustle. It is a busy place. We then made our way into Kalkara Marina when the attendants helped us to berth stern. End of voyage.
Grand Harbour, Valetta.Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'Autumn 2018.'
For the year we had sailed 850Nm in total.
Early summer - 186Nm
Leros - Milos 145Nm
Milos - Methoni 169Nm
Methoni - Malta 350Nm
David and Roger went sight-seeing for a couple of days before leaving at 07:30hrs on Friday 21 Sept. I carried on with the usual repairs and maintenance before lifting out into the yard on Monday morning and flying back to London on Tuesday morning.
Comments
Tobin Bronze's Photos - Main
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A 34 year old Tobin Bronze was badly in need of an extended boat yard visit to undergo some serious maintenance.
10 Photos
Created 31 October 2022
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Last leg along west coast of France, across the Channel, around Lands End and into the Bristol Channel
18 Photos
Created 23 June 2021
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From Cagliari up the west coast to Strait of Bonifacio
15 Photos
Created 22 June 2021
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Ragusa to Trapani including road trip to Mt Etna
46 Photos
Created 19 June 2021
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Cruising from Orei. Evia to Leros in the Dodcanese in May, June
18 Photos
Created 30 October 2016
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Launch from Orei, sail north to Thessaloniki, around the Khalkidhiki paninsula and Mt Athos to Nea Peramos.
17 Photos
Created 14 December 2015
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Re-launch in Kilada to Orei, Evia in early July
16 Photos
Created 22 July 2014
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A late summer cruise to the northern Cyclades
18 Photos
Created 20 January 2014
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From Kalamata to the Argolic Gulf in July 2012
57 Photos
Created 12 January 2013
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From Messolonghi to Kalamata May 2012
45 Photos
Created 10 January 2013
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Italy to Zakinthos and Messolonghi
15 Photos
Created 24 November 2011
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Lipari, Vulcano and Stromboli - three of the Aeolian Islands
30 Photos
Created 24 November 2011
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Sailing from Cartagena to Sardinia
24 Photos
Created 24 November 2011
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Sailing TB from Faro to Cartagena in June and July 2011
64 Photos
Created 9 August 2011
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Sailing on John's boat 'Derby Lass'
20 Photos
Created 6 August 2011
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Delivery trip with Woody from Vigo to Lisbon when John Q. met us. Then to Ohao where Judy replaced John for a trip up the Guardina River.
41 Photos
Created 1 October 2010
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June - July in the Rias Baixas, Galicia
26 Photos
Created 8 August 2010
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Six days on the "Dunmow Flitch" between Braunston and Market Harborough in April 2010.
26 Photos
Created 1 June 2010
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Newport R.I.,Cuttyhunk Island, Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket
48 Photos
Created 17 September 2009
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Highlights of the trip from Viveiro to Ria de Vigo.
34 Photos
Created 2 August 2009
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Hugh pod of dolphins encountered 10:30hrs 04 June at approx 44º24'N; 006º32'W
18 Photos
Created 23 June 2009
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Between 02 June and 04 June 2009 from La Roche Bernard to Ribadeo in Galicia, Spain
11 Photos | 1 Sub-Album
Created 18 June 2009
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Port de Foleux is about 15 miles up the Villaine River, 6 miles upstream from La Roche Bernard
4 Photos
Created 18 June 2009
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- #01 Plans & objectives
- *35 Re-launch 08 July 2022
- *34 Last leg - La Rochelle to Portishead
- *33 2019 Corsica west coast & French south coast
- *32 Sardinia - West coast
- *31 Sicily - South coast
- *30 2019 Malta to Sicily
- *29 2018 Leros to Malta
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- *27 2017 Summer cruise
- #26 2017 Spring in the Dodecanese islands
- #25 2016 Orei to Leros
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- #15 The Balearic Islands September 2011
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