Cruising to Greece and back.

After sailing back from Greece to Portishead, in October 2019 Tobin Bronze was transported back to Wadswick for a major re-fit. In July 2022, TB was re-launched into Portishead Marina.

Vessel Name: Tobin Bronze
Vessel Make/Model: 35ft cold moulded plywood sloop
Hailing Port: Bristol
Crew: Peter and Judy Ward
About:
Launched in 1985. After one year sailing in the Bristol Channel, TB has been sailed for 22,500 plus miles by Peter, Judy, Charlotte, Ben and Sofie - firstly based in Dartmouth and then in South Brittany. [...]
24 October 2019 | Portishead Entrance Lock
08 June 2019
27 November 2018
30 June 2018
18 November 2017
03 July 2016 | Agmar Marine Boatyard. Partheni, Island of Leros
30 October 2015
01 October 2014 | Kilada to Orei
25 November 2013
19 July 2013
26 June 2013 | Koilada
01 December 2012
01 November 2012 | Koilada
29 September 2011

Last leg - La Rochelle to Portishead

24 October 2019 | Portishead Entrance Lock
Peter Ward
Click here for link to relevant PhotpAlbum La Rochelle to Portishead. Portishead Entrance Lock.

After arriving in La Rochelle by train Wednesday, 24 July, I spent the night in the cheap and cheerful Altica Hotel not far from the large marina at Port des Minimes. On schedule, Tobin Bronze rolled into the boatyard at 15:45hrs on the transport after the 400 mile road journey from the Herault River.

LaRochelle boatyard
LaRochelle boatyard.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'La Rochelle to Portishead.'

Unfortunately, at this stage, things started to go wrong. I had arranged for the boatyard to lift TB off the truck and launch into the water. I had also mentioned that I would require a crane to step the mast once in the water. It was only at the last minute that the boatyard informed me that I would need a crane for a different company to step the mast. Of course, the other company was "Very busy. Can't do it until next week." Even after much rushing around and pleading, I ended up having to store the mast in another boatyard until 12 August when I could return to La Rochelle. I can understand why La Rochelle has a reputation as a place to avoid for having any work done. There are simply too many boats and the demand for services out-strips the supply. Mind you, some of the people I dealt with were very efficient and helpful but a lot of the others were the exact opposite.

After a decent storm overnight, it rained most of Friday. A friendly guy from the French boat next to me in the marina helped me to raise the A-frame; so I was able to connect the solar panels, Navtex and GPS antennas. It was also quite pleasant as the weather was much cooler overnight, making sleeping more comfortable.

Unable to go anywhere without a mast, I flew back to Bristol for a spot of shore leave.

As it turned out, I returned to La Rochelle earlier than expected on Tuesday 06 August. Pierre-Jean, who was going to step the mast, was due to be married on the following Saturday and the yard was closing on Thursday. So we stepped the mast on Wednesday morning without any difficulty.

Stepping the mast.
Stepping the mast.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'La Rochelle to Portishead.'

The weather over the next few days was very unsettled - windy and wet. Judy joined ship on Saturday and we were able to enjoy a few days in La Rochelle using the complimentary bikes from the marina to get around.

By Tuesday, the forecast was much improved and we motored out of Port des Minimes at 10:45 in calm conditions. That evening we were allocated a berth in Port Olona, Les Sables de Orleone. This is the modern port with good facilities and is where the Vondee Globe starts and finishes.

On departure next morning, we had a moment or two of drama as the engine lost revs and died when we were only 100 metres off the breakwater and in the approach channel. It was also choppy with an onshore wind against the ebb tide. A few minutes frantic activity saw us drop the anchor, raise the mainsail, pick up the anchor, sail half a mile south and then anchor in 7 metres of water off the beach.

Once again, the dreaded diesel bug had developed in the fuel tank and blocked the fuel intake pipe. It was still pretty choppy and I had to fight sea-sickness as we rigged up a temporary fuel supply. Poor Jude had to rummage around in various lockers as the green looking skipper fought to keep his breakfast down. Eventually we managed to motor back into the marina. The diesel bug was a surprise as we had taken 155 litres onboard in La Rochelle.

Next morning, I removed the cockpit sole and opened the inspection hatch on the fuel tank. The suction pipe was blocked with green gunge. We rigged up the fuel "polish" pump and ran it for a couple of hours filtering the diesel and removing all the diesel bug. I don't know why the bug had returned as the last time it had caused a problem was 3 or 4 years before in Greece. I had "polished" the diesel in Malta without seeing anything in the filters.

After leaving Les Sables de Orleone early on Friday morning we mostly motor sailed at a good average speed to La Turballe where we spent three nights. There were strong winds and rain overnight and heavy rain all next day. Welcome to summer in Brittany!

Kevin and Lesley, regular crew on TB, arrived around 18:30 on Sunday.

Monday, 19 Aug, was sunny but cool with a nice 12kt NW wind. We were under full sail as we tacked towards Point Navola and the Morbihan. Nice sailing for a change. However by 15:30 the wind had picked up as we motored into the Morbihan. Transiting the Morbihan is always an interesting experience with plenty of company on the water - from sailboarders to busy ferries nipping back and forth. At 18:45, we were moored on the waiting pontoon at the lock into Vannes. We were early on the tide and there was barely 2m of water in the canal.

The last time Tobin Bonze had been moored in Vannes was 2008.

After a run ashore in the evening, we left on the strong ebb tide down the Morbihan, through the Teignose Channel and across to Souzon in Belle Isle. By late afternoon, we were moored fore and aft between buoys with six other boats - four one side and two the other.

Souzon, Belle Isle.
Moorings in Souzon Harbour.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'La Rochelle to Portishead.'

Things got interesting during the night. Just after midnight the easterly wind picked up blowing straight into the anchorage. We lost our bow line to the buoy and the Benny 38 on our port side also parted his bow line. It was cold wet work in the wind to replace these lines. The rest of the night was disturbed tending lines and adjusting fenders. As I said a couple of days ago - welcome to Brittany!

After the boats outside us cast off at 08:40, we immediately left ourselves and motored into a head wind for 3 hours to the beach on the SW side of Houat. This was in the lee of the land and sheltered from the wind. The wind was still cool but it was nice to be there. Hout is always a pleasant place to wander around ashore and we enjoyed a relaxing walk (and a few beers in the bar overlooking the small harbour on the east coast).

We weighed anchor at 08:20 next morning, Thursday and motored across the bay to Piriac. After about an hour, the auto-pilot blew its fuse and after a bit of trouble shooting it was ascertained that the drive motor had reached the end of its natural life. The facilities in Piriac are good with a new amenities block having been built since our last visit. It is also a very pleasant town. After lunch, Kevin and Lesley departed by bus back to La Turballe to collect their car.

Judy and I motor sailed next morning across to Port du Croeusty at the entrance to the Gulf du Morbihan. I left the auto-pilot with the helpful guys at Electronic du Gulf. They confirmed the drive motor was the problem and ordered a replacement.

Next morning, Saturday 24 August, we left Port du Croeusty at 10:50 and motored into the Morbihan and up to Vannes. It was a hot 28degC when were allocated berth 70 on the south side of Vannes Marina.

Sunday is games day in Vannes and we watched the colourful Jousting competition which went on all afternoon. Sue & Tim H. arrived off the train at 20:45 and we all trooped off to a restaurant up in the town.

Jousting.
Jousting in Vannes Marina.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'La Rochelle to Portishead.'

While the lock was open at high water, we left at 15:00hrs and motored back to Port du Croeusty, mooring up at 17:30hrs. Around lunch time next day, I collected the auto-pilot with its new drive motor and confirmed that it was working. We filled up with 120 litres diesel and motored in bright sunshine across a flat sea to Port Haliguen. We had a nice meal in the small restaurant by the harbour in their lovely garden.

Port Haliguen.
Restaurant in Port Haliguen.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'La Rochelle to Portishead.'

There was a light westerly as we left next morning around Teignose Lighthouse and north to Isle de Glenan. During the afternoon, we were able to make sail and enjoy the sunshine. By 18:20, we were moored to a buoy in the anchorage on the north side of Ile St Nicolas.

The bright sunshine continued next morning but the wind was too light to sail; so we mostly motored for 5.5hrs to the anchorage at Audierne. It was a beautiful evening as we had a stroll ashore enjoying the view. We had a drink in the café overlooking the bay. I don't know what the occasion was but the publican was obviously drunk!

Audierne Bay.
Anchorage at Audierne.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'La Rochelle to Portishead.'

The navigator's timing for passage thru Raz de Seine next morning left a lot to be desired as it was pretty rough on the north side. South of the Raz the north going current and the swell form the south west caused no problem but once through the Raz the swell on the north shore of Ile de Seine was coming in from the north west causing a wind against tide confusion of sea. But Tobin Bronze handled the conditions easily and the only damage was to the navigator's confidence and self-esteem. The moral of the story - go through the Raz at slack water!

Raz de Seine Lighthouse.
Raz de Seine Lighthouse.
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'La Rochelle to Portishead.'

Once into Marina de Chateau, Brest, we moored up inside the breakwater and then were allocated a pontoon berth by the marina staff. This marina is alongside the commercial harbour but is not far from the bars and restaurants along the water front. The facilities are very good.

Saturday 31 August 2019 - crew change day. David W. can strolling in around lunch time and not long after that, Judy took a taxi to Brest Airport to fly to Southampton. Early next morning, Sue and Tim caught the train from Brest to Nantes from where they flew back to Liverpool. David and I then visited the excellent street market up in the town. The fresh produce on display has to be seen to be believed.

In sunny but cool conditions (16° C), David and I cast off from Brest and motored on the ebb tide through the Narrows to Camaret. The Marina here is always a pleasant place to visit.

Monday 02 Sept was bright and sunny; so after topping up with water we motored out of the marina at 12:00hrs. We caught the last of the ebb tide down to Ponte St Mathieu and then the flood tide up the Chenal du Four. Conditions were calm as we motor sailed north. Once clear of the land, we crossed the north bound shipping lane with its steady stream of traffic without any drama. However it was in the early hours of the morning when we encountered the south bound shipping lane. The weather had turned damp and miserable as we motor-sailed with a full main in a lumpy sea. The shipping was quite heavy and what appeared to be a large number of fishing boats were working in the area about 40Nm from the Isles of Scilly. It was one of those nights where it was hard to differentiate between navigation lights closer to hand or powerful fishing boat work lights further away. And there were lights everywhere! However we made our way through without too much excitement.

By 10:00hrs we were approaching the Isles of Scilly with the tide running in our favour. About five miles off, I tuned in to the latest weather forecast. Not good news! The prediction was for strong northerly winds for the next four to five days - about the worst conditions you could wish for heading north up to the Bristol Channel. We had intended to wait in St Mary's for a suitable window to transit the North Cornwall coast but the prospect of sitting out an extended Force 6 to Force 7 blow on a mooring in St Mary's wasn't exactly appealing.

A quick phone call verified the availability of a berth in Newlyn Harbour; so we quickly re-plotted a course into Mounts Bay. By 16:00hrs, we were secured to the visitor's pontoon in Newlyn. This is mainly a fishing harbour with a couple of pontoons for small boats. Plenty of activity with big fishing boats coming and going at all hours.

I paid for 5 days mooring and David and I headed out of Penzance by train at noon next day, Thursday 05 September.

It was eight days later on the following Friday (13 Sept) when Judy and I returned by train to Penzance. By 17:30 we were onboard TB in Newlyn on a warm(ish) sunny evening.

We left the harbour at 07:25 on Saturday and motored towards Lands End. Once around the famous headland and through the inshore passage inside Longships were able to make sail for a change towards Trevose Head. Fortunately conditions were calm as we crossed the notorious Doom Bar. After a pleasant sail up the estuary, we arrived in Padstow. We took on 100l of cheap diesel at the commercial wharf and, at 18:00hrs, moored alongside the wall inside the locked harbour.

Padstow was very busy with tourists and the pubs and restaurants were all booked out for dinner. We managed to get the last table in the Rick Stein Café. Even though our table was tucked away in the corner and the Café is not the main Rick Stein Restaurant, the meal was excellent and very enjoyable.

There was fog and mist around next morning and it was overcast and cool (13°C) as we left the Padstow estuary. It was a familiar story - no wind! The tide was against us initially but turned in our favour as we rounded Hartland Point.

We had a quick look into Ilfacombe around 17:00hrs but the north westerly swell ruled out anchoring there for the night. Four miles further east, Combe Martin Bay was a bit more sheltered but is very shallow and we had to anchor a long way out. When the wind grew lighter and the boat drifted around beam on to the sea, it became decidedly more uncomfortable. As the flood tide up the Bristol Channel started to run around 03:00hrs, we decided to make use of it and weighed anchor. There was a nice westerly wind behind us which combined with a full spring tide propelled us over the 36 miles to Flat Holm in four hours. The water was brown as only the Bristol Channel can be and it was overcast and damp but we were bombing along.

On with the oilskins.
On with the cold weather gear!
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'La Rochelle to Portishead.'

By 10:30hrs, Monday 16 September 2019, just as the tidal stream was beginning to ebb, we moved into the Portishead Marina entrance lock. We had averaged over 8.25 knots from Combe Martin Bay - with a little bit of help from the tide!

The distance sailed on the water from Malta was 1854 nautical miles. The worst statistic from the trip was that the engine had been used for 320 hours. The winds are much more favourable for getting to Greece than returning.

On 24 October 2019, the mast was removed and laid on top of TB. The boat was then lifted onto the road transported from South West Boat Transport and delivered by road back to Manor Farm, Wadswick. The old shed were TB was built many years ago has long gone but a lifting frame had been rigged up to offload TB under cover in another shed.

Into the shed.
Into the shed for a major re-fit.!
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'La Rochelle to Portishead.'

After 35 years on the water, sailing nearly 23,000 miles and eight years in the Mediterranean sunshine, Tobin Bronze was badly in need of some TLC. The decks were plumb worn out and leaked everywhere, the Cascover sheathing on the hull had broken down in the sunshine and I wanted to fit a holding tank in the heads. So a major re-fit was called for




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Tobin Bronze's Photos - Main
Photos 1 to 3 of 3
1
Tobin Bronze going out in the 1967 Melbourne Cup.
 
1
A relaxed summer in the Bristol Channel.
11 Photos
Created 15 January 2023
A 34 year old Tobin Bronze was badly in need of an extended boat yard visit to undergo some serious maintenance.
10 Photos
Created 31 October 2022
Last leg along west coast of France, across the Channel, around Lands End and into the Bristol Channel
18 Photos
Created 23 June 2021
Last leg in the Med.
12 Photos
Created 23 June 2021
From Bonefacio up the west coast to Calvi
12 Photos
Created 23 June 2021
From Cagliari up the west coast to Strait of Bonifacio
15 Photos
Created 22 June 2021
Ragusa to Trapani including road trip to Mt Etna
46 Photos
Created 19 June 2021
Malta to Sicily May 2019
11 Photos
Created 15 May 2019
Leros to Malta. 30 Aug to 25 Sep 2018.
39 Photos
Created 19 November 2018
22 May to 19 June 2018
30 Photos
Created 29 July 2018
Sept 2017. Dodecanese Islands
20 Photos
Created 20 October 2017
Dodecanese Islands
23 Photos
Created 24 June 2017
Cruising from Orei. Evia to Leros in the Dodcanese in May, June
18 Photos
Created 30 October 2016
Launch from Orei, sail north to Thessaloniki, around the Khalkidhiki paninsula and Mt Athos to Nea Peramos.
17 Photos
Created 14 December 2015
22 Photos
Created 15 October 2014
Re-launch in Kilada to Orei, Evia in early July
16 Photos
Created 22 July 2014
13 Photos
Created 18 May 2014
A late summer cruise to the northern Cyclades
18 Photos
Created 20 January 2014
Cruise to Crete
11 Photos
Created 19 July 2013
Visits to Koilada May & june 2013
11 Photos
Created 9 June 2013
From Kalamata to the Argolic Gulf in July 2012
57 Photos
Created 12 January 2013
From Messolonghi to Kalamata May 2012
45 Photos
Created 10 January 2013
Italy to Zakinthos and Messolonghi
15 Photos
Created 24 November 2011
Lipari, Vulcano and Stromboli - three of the Aeolian Islands
30 Photos
Created 24 November 2011
Sardinia and Sicily Sept 2011
19 Photos
Created 24 November 2011
Sailing from Cartagena to Sardinia
24 Photos
Created 24 November 2011
Sailing TB from Faro to Cartagena in June and July 2011
64 Photos
Created 9 August 2011
Sailing on John's boat 'Derby Lass'
20 Photos
Created 6 August 2011
Delivery trip with Woody from Vigo to Lisbon when John Q. met us. Then to Ohao where Judy replaced John for a trip up the Guardina River.
41 Photos
Created 1 October 2010
June - July in the Rias Baixas, Galicia
26 Photos
Created 8 August 2010
Six days on the "Dunmow Flitch" between Braunston and Market Harborough in April 2010.
26 Photos
Created 1 June 2010
Lay up for winter in Cangas
17 Photos
Created 27 October 2009
Newport R.I.,Cuttyhunk Island, Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket
48 Photos
Created 17 September 2009
Highlights of the trip from Viveiro to Ria de Vigo.
34 Photos
Created 2 August 2009
Hugh pod of dolphins encountered 10:30hrs 04 June at approx 44º24'N; 006º32'W
18 Photos
Created 23 June 2009
Between 02 June and 04 June 2009 from La Roche Bernard to Ribadeo in Galicia, Spain
11 Photos | 1 Sub-Album
Created 18 June 2009
Port de Foleux is about 15 miles up the Villaine River, 6 miles upstream from La Roche Bernard
4 Photos
Created 18 June 2009