Click here for link to relevant PhotpAlbum La Rochelle to Portishead. Portishead Entrance Lock.
After arriving in La Rochelle by train Wednesday, 24 July, I spent the night in the cheap and cheerful Altica Hotel not far from the large marina at Port des Minimes. On schedule, Tobin Bronze rolled into the boatyard at 15:45hrs on the transport after the 400 mile road journey from the Herault River.
LaRochelle boatyard.
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Unfortunately, at this stage, things started to go wrong. I had arranged for the boatyard to lift TB off the truck and launch into the water. I had also mentioned that I would require a crane to step the mast once in the water. It was only at the last minute that the boatyard informed me that I would need a crane for a different company to step the mast. Of course, the other company was "Very busy. Can't do it until next week." Even after much rushing around and pleading, I ended up having to store the mast in another boatyard until 12 August when I could return to La Rochelle. I can understand why La Rochelle has a reputation as a place to avoid for having any work done. There are simply too many boats and the demand for services out-strips the supply. Mind you, some of the people I dealt with were very efficient and helpful but a lot of the others were the exact opposite.
After a decent storm overnight, it rained most of Friday. A friendly guy from the French boat next to me in the marina helped me to raise the A-frame; so I was able to connect the solar panels, Navtex and GPS antennas. It was also quite pleasant as the weather was much cooler overnight, making sleeping more comfortable.
Unable to go anywhere without a mast, I flew back to Bristol for a spot of shore leave.
As it turned out, I returned to La Rochelle earlier than expected on Tuesday 06 August. Pierre-Jean, who was going to step the mast, was due to be married on the following Saturday and the yard was closing on Thursday. So we stepped the mast on Wednesday morning without any difficulty.
Stepping the mast.
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The weather over the next few days was very unsettled - windy and wet. Judy joined ship on Saturday and we were able to enjoy a few days in La Rochelle using the complimentary bikes from the marina to get around.
By Tuesday, the forecast was much improved and we motored out of Port des Minimes at 10:45 in calm conditions. That evening we were allocated a berth in Port Olona, Les Sables de Orleone. This is the modern port with good facilities and is where the Vondee Globe starts and finishes.
On departure next morning, we had a moment or two of drama as the engine lost revs and died when we were only 100 metres off the breakwater and in the approach channel. It was also choppy with an onshore wind against the ebb tide. A few minutes frantic activity saw us drop the anchor, raise the mainsail, pick up the anchor, sail half a mile south and then anchor in 7 metres of water off the beach.
Once again, the dreaded diesel bug had developed in the fuel tank and blocked the fuel intake pipe. It was still pretty choppy and I had to fight sea-sickness as we rigged up a temporary fuel supply. Poor Jude had to rummage around in various lockers as the green looking skipper fought to keep his breakfast down. Eventually we managed to motor back into the marina. The diesel bug was a surprise as we had taken 155 litres onboard in La Rochelle.
Next morning, I removed the cockpit sole and opened the inspection hatch on the fuel tank. The suction pipe was blocked with green gunge. We rigged up the fuel "polish" pump and ran it for a couple of hours filtering the diesel and removing all the diesel bug. I don't know why the bug had returned as the last time it had caused a problem was 3 or 4 years before in Greece. I had "polished" the diesel in Malta without seeing anything in the filters.
After leaving Les Sables de Orleone early on Friday morning we mostly motor sailed at a good average speed to La Turballe where we spent three nights. There were strong winds and rain overnight and heavy rain all next day. Welcome to summer in Brittany!
Kevin and Lesley, regular crew on TB, arrived around 18:30 on Sunday.
Monday, 19 Aug, was sunny but cool with a nice 12kt NW wind. We were under full sail as we tacked towards Point Navola and the Morbihan. Nice sailing for a change. However by 15:30 the wind had picked up as we motored into the Morbihan. Transiting the Morbihan is always an interesting experience with plenty of company on the water - from sailboarders to busy ferries nipping back and forth. At 18:45, we were moored on the waiting pontoon at the lock into Vannes. We were early on the tide and there was barely 2m of water in the canal.
The last time Tobin Bonze had been moored in Vannes was 2008.
After a run ashore in the evening, we left on the strong ebb tide down the Morbihan, through the Teignose Channel and across to Souzon in Belle Isle. By late afternoon, we were moored fore and aft between buoys with six other boats - four one side and two the other.
Moorings in Souzon Harbour.
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Things got interesting during the night. Just after midnight the easterly wind picked up blowing straight into the anchorage. We lost our bow line to the buoy and the Benny 38 on our port side also parted his bow line. It was cold wet work in the wind to replace these lines. The rest of the night was disturbed tending lines and adjusting fenders. As I said a couple of days ago - welcome to Brittany!
After the boats outside us cast off at 08:40, we immediately left ourselves and motored into a head wind for 3 hours to the beach on the SW side of Houat. This was in the lee of the land and sheltered from the wind. The wind was still cool but it was nice to be there. Hout is always a pleasant place to wander around ashore and we enjoyed a relaxing walk (and a few beers in the bar overlooking the small harbour on the east coast).
We weighed anchor at 08:20 next morning, Thursday and motored across the bay to Piriac. After about an hour, the auto-pilot blew its fuse and after a bit of trouble shooting it was ascertained that the drive motor had reached the end of its natural life. The facilities in Piriac are good with a new amenities block having been built since our last visit. It is also a very pleasant town. After lunch, Kevin and Lesley departed by bus back to La Turballe to collect their car.
Judy and I motor sailed next morning across to Port du Croeusty at the entrance to the Gulf du Morbihan. I left the auto-pilot with the helpful guys at Electronic du Gulf. They confirmed the drive motor was the problem and ordered a replacement.
Next morning, Saturday 24 August, we left Port du Croeusty at 10:50 and motored into the Morbihan and up to Vannes. It was a hot 28degC when were allocated berth 70 on the south side of Vannes Marina.
Sunday is games day in Vannes and we watched the colourful Jousting competition which went on all afternoon. Sue & Tim H. arrived off the train at 20:45 and we all trooped off to a restaurant up in the town.
Jousting in Vannes Marina.
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While the lock was open at high water, we left at 15:00hrs and motored back to Port du Croeusty, mooring up at 17:30hrs. Around lunch time next day, I collected the auto-pilot with its new drive motor and confirmed that it was working. We filled up with 120 litres diesel and motored in bright sunshine across a flat sea to Port Haliguen. We had a nice meal in the small restaurant by the harbour in their lovely garden.
Restaurant in Port Haliguen.
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There was a light westerly as we left next morning around Teignose Lighthouse and north to Isle de Glenan. During the afternoon, we were able to make sail and enjoy the sunshine. By 18:20, we were moored to a buoy in the anchorage on the north side of Ile St Nicolas.
The bright sunshine continued next morning but the wind was too light to sail; so we mostly motored for 5.5hrs to the anchorage at Audierne. It was a beautiful evening as we had a stroll ashore enjoying the view. We had a drink in the café overlooking the bay. I don't know what the occasion was but the publican was obviously drunk!
Anchorage at Audierne.
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The navigator's timing for passage thru Raz de Seine next morning left a lot to be desired as it was pretty rough on the north side. South of the Raz the north going current and the swell form the south west caused no problem but once through the Raz the swell on the north shore of Ile de Seine was coming in from the north west causing a wind against tide confusion of sea. But Tobin Bronze handled the conditions easily and the only damage was to the navigator's confidence and self-esteem. The moral of the story - go through the Raz at slack water!
Raz de Seine Lighthouse.
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Once into Marina de Chateau, Brest, we moored up inside the breakwater and then were allocated a pontoon berth by the marina staff. This marina is alongside the commercial harbour but is not far from the bars and restaurants along the water front. The facilities are very good.
Saturday 31 August 2019 - crew change day. David W. can strolling in around lunch time and not long after that, Judy took a taxi to Brest Airport to fly to Southampton. Early next morning, Sue and Tim caught the train from Brest to Nantes from where they flew back to Liverpool. David and I then visited the excellent street market up in the town. The fresh produce on display has to be seen to be believed.
In sunny but cool conditions (16° C), David and I cast off from Brest and motored on the ebb tide through the Narrows to Camaret. The Marina here is always a pleasant place to visit.
Monday 02 Sept was bright and sunny; so after topping up with water we motored out of the marina at 12:00hrs. We caught the last of the ebb tide down to Ponte St Mathieu and then the flood tide up the Chenal du Four. Conditions were calm as we motor sailed north. Once clear of the land, we crossed the north bound shipping lane with its steady stream of traffic without any drama. However it was in the early hours of the morning when we encountered the south bound shipping lane. The weather had turned damp and miserable as we motor-sailed with a full main in a lumpy sea. The shipping was quite heavy and what appeared to be a large number of fishing boats were working in the area about 40Nm from the Isles of Scilly. It was one of those nights where it was hard to differentiate between navigation lights closer to hand or powerful fishing boat work lights further away. And there were lights everywhere! However we made our way through without too much excitement.
By 10:00hrs we were approaching the Isles of Scilly with the tide running in our favour. About five miles off, I tuned in to the latest weather forecast. Not good news! The prediction was for strong northerly winds for the next four to five days - about the worst conditions you could wish for heading north up to the Bristol Channel. We had intended to wait in St Mary's for a suitable window to transit the North Cornwall coast but the prospect of sitting out an extended Force 6 to Force 7 blow on a mooring in St Mary's wasn't exactly appealing.
A quick phone call verified the availability of a berth in Newlyn Harbour; so we quickly re-plotted a course into Mounts Bay. By 16:00hrs, we were secured to the visitor's pontoon in Newlyn. This is mainly a fishing harbour with a couple of pontoons for small boats. Plenty of activity with big fishing boats coming and going at all hours.
I paid for 5 days mooring and David and I headed out of Penzance by train at noon next day, Thursday 05 September.
It was eight days later on the following Friday (13 Sept) when Judy and I returned by train to Penzance. By 17:30 we were onboard TB in Newlyn on a warm(ish) sunny evening.
We left the harbour at 07:25 on Saturday and motored towards Lands End. Once around the famous headland and through the inshore passage inside Longships were able to make sail for a change towards Trevose Head. Fortunately conditions were calm as we crossed the notorious Doom Bar. After a pleasant sail up the estuary, we arrived in Padstow. We took on 100l of cheap diesel at the commercial wharf and, at 18:00hrs, moored alongside the wall inside the locked harbour.
Padstow was very busy with tourists and the pubs and restaurants were all booked out for dinner. We managed to get the last table in the Rick Stein Café. Even though our table was tucked away in the corner and the Café is not the main Rick Stein Restaurant, the meal was excellent and very enjoyable.
There was fog and mist around next morning and it was overcast and cool (13°C) as we left the Padstow estuary. It was a familiar story - no wind! The tide was against us initially but turned in our favour as we rounded Hartland Point.
We had a quick look into Ilfacombe around 17:00hrs but the north westerly swell ruled out anchoring there for the night. Four miles further east, Combe Martin Bay was a bit more sheltered but is very shallow and we had to anchor a long way out. When the wind grew lighter and the boat drifted around beam on to the sea, it became decidedly more uncomfortable. As the flood tide up the Bristol Channel started to run around 03:00hrs, we decided to make use of it and weighed anchor. There was a nice westerly wind behind us which combined with a full spring tide propelled us over the 36 miles to Flat Holm in four hours. The water was brown as only the Bristol Channel can be and it was overcast and damp but we were bombing along.
On with the cold weather gear!
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By 10:30hrs, Monday 16 September 2019, just as the tidal stream was beginning to ebb, we moved into the Portishead Marina entrance lock. We had averaged over 8.25 knots from Combe Martin Bay - with a little bit of help from the tide!
The distance sailed on the water from Malta was 1854 nautical miles. The worst statistic from the trip was that the engine had been used for 320 hours. The winds are much more favourable for getting to Greece than returning.
On 24 October 2019, the mast was removed and laid on top of TB. The boat was then lifted onto the road transported from South West Boat Transport and delivered by road back to Manor Farm, Wadswick. The old shed were TB was built many years ago has long gone but a lifting frame had been rigged up to offload TB under cover in another shed.
Into the shed for a major re-fit.!
Click here for link to an enlarged image in the Photo Album 'La Rochelle to Portishead.'
After 35 years on the water, sailing nearly 23,000 miles and eight years in the Mediterranean sunshine, Tobin Bronze was badly in need of some TLC. The decks were plumb worn out and leaked everywhere, the Cascover sheathing on the hull had broken down in the sunshine and I wanted to fit a holding tank in the heads. So a major re-fit was called for