Tonic 2023

Vessel Name: Tonic
Vessel Make/Model: Beneteau Oceanis 411
Hailing Port: Brixham
Crew: John and Barbara Sumner
21 July 2023 | English Channel
20 July 2023 | Roscoff
19 July 2023 | Roscoff
18 July 2023 | Camaret
17 July 2023 | Lesconil
16 July 2023 | Golfe du Morbihan
15 July 2023 | Vannes
14 July 2023 | Vannes
13 July 2023 | Vannes
12 July 2023 | Vannes
11 July 2023 | Arradon
10 July 2023 | Auray
09 July 2023 | Golfe du Morbihan
08 July 2023 | Port Joinville
07 July 2023 | Ile d'Yeu
06 July 2023 | Port Joinville
05 July 2023 | St Gilles Croix-de-Vie
04 July 2023 | Port La Vie
03 July 2023 | St Denis d'Oleron
02 July 2023 | St Denis d'Oleron
Recent Blog Posts
21 July 2023 | English Channel

Back to Brixham!

Left just after 6am as it was getting light and there was a lovely sunrise. We had 10 knots of wind but it was almost on the nose so we altered course and sailed a bit further east to get a better angle. Lovely and sunny but the wind was cold. We still had to have the engine on till the wind had backed [...]

20 July 2023 | Roscoff

Day in Roscoff

We have to visit the customs office today to get our passports stamped to say we have left the Schengen area. It's one of the reasons that we are rushing home, because we don't want to be in danger of overstaying our allotted 90 days due to bad weather. In actual fact we've only been here for about 70 days. Our appointment with the Douane was at 2pm so we got the bikes out, and on our way up the ramp lo and behold who should be coming down the other way but our friends from Torquay Tony & Sylvie! They were with her brother-in-law whose boat was in the marina. The checking out at the Douane went smoothly although the guy seemed to think we were checking in not checking out despite us having completed the form saying we were leaving! We then carried on into the town where we had an ice cream, and watched 2 young men playing boules which was very entertaining. It was pleasant in the sunshine and lovely to see that younger people are carrying on with French customs, as it usually seems to be older men playing. Back to the boat to get everything ready for tomorrow.

19 July 2023 | Roscoff

Another long day!

Got the bikes out and went to check in, then to the supermarket for final provisions - the checkout girl must have thought we were coffee addicts as we stocked up on 12 packets of our favourite brand of French coffee! Another 11am start to make the best of the tide. There was a fair bit of swell and it was quite cold and cloudy but we were able to sail with the cruising chute up through the Chenal du Four. Arrived at Roscoff at 8.30pm. All the visitors' berths were taken so we tied up on the long pontoon outside of our friends on Rowena. 62 miles in 9 hours 20 minutes. The photo is one of my favourite landmarks on this coast - Pointe St Matthieu which marks the southern end of the Chenal du Four which is a 10 mile stretch of coastline with strong tides.

18 July 2023 | Camaret

Raz de Sein

Raz de Sein today - strong tides here so it's important to get the timing right. We don't need to leave till 11am as the tide doesn't turn favourable till mid-afternoon. Another sunny day and a decent wind so we were able to sail till the wind dropped at 3.30pm. Arrived at Camaret at 7.30pm and the only space was on the outside of the breakwater so we tied up there, and discovered we were next to Rowena - Paul & Sue Jones, and Margot the dog, who we had met briefly in St Denis. They invited us on board for a drink which was lovely. Had a reasonably peaceful night although there was a bit of swell coming in. 54 miles in 8 ½ hours. The photo is of the rather forbidding coastline on the approach to Camaret.

17 July 2023 | Lesconil

Lesconil

We're getting a clearer picture of the weather over the next week or so and there is some bad weather coming up the Channel next week, so we are now heading for home. Long journey today so set off at 8am in lovely sunshine. Unfortunately there was very little wind so we had to motor all the way except for half an hour in the afternoon. Arrived in Lesconil at 6.30pm and were greeted by Andy & Beverley on Star Turn who had arrived there earlier. There was some Breton dancing and a street market in the town so we went to have a look and enjoyed a gallette from one of the stalls. A nice way to unwind after a long day at sea. 63 miles in 10 hours 20 mins. The photo is of one of the beautiful islands in the Gulf.

16 July 2023 | Golfe du Morbihan

Leaving Vannes

We had decided to leave on the afternoon lock, which meant we have most of the day to enjoy here. As it's Sunday we watched our Church service in the cockpit – we had the cockpit tent up because it had been raining on and off. I went into town to get a baguette and there was a lovely craft fair by the harbour. The lock doesn’t open till 5pm so we went for a walk in the afternoon to a park nearby called Tohannic which has a lake, and came back past Montcalm, which is a 17th century convent turned hotel. The French boat outside of us called Al Dente was also leaving at 5pm so we followed them out. We had planned to anchor off one of the small islands in the Gulf but we had problems with the anchor which didn’t set first time and when we tried to drop it the second time it jammed and we couldn’t get it to run through. Fortunately there were some free mooring buoys a couple of miles away so we were able to pick up one of those instead. The photo is of a guy wind-foiling backwards and forwards in front and behind us as we motored along. it looks great fun and they go really fast!

Visit to Santiago de Compostela

01 July 2019 | Santiago de Compostela
John Sumner | Sunny
Awoke after a good night's sleep (despite the music in the town) to sunshine. Having arranged with Tomas from Muros Motors that we would hire a car from him, and he said he would bring it to the marina, we were ready at 10am as agreed. He turned up at about 10.15, in a rather battered old 3-door Audi 3. We thought it was a bit of a cheek at €50 a day, but that was what had been agreed. Also he then said he wanted cash otherwise he would charge us VAT. Anyway we set off for Santiago and found an underground car park near the centre. We found a café serving chocolate con churros! So finally Ken and Rachel were able to try the real thing and it was much enjoyed. Clearly something only to be found in the more touristy places. Then we headed off to the Cathedral. There was a nice buzz about the place, with lots of pilgrims and tourists around, without it being too crowded. John and I had visited Santiago and seen the dramatic swinging of the incense at a pilgrim's mass 2 years ago, but unfortunately there are extensive renovations going on at the moment so no services are taking place here. A lot of the outside of the Cathedral was swathed with scaffolding and plastic, and most of the inside. You could still visit the relics (going down some narrow steps and viewing a silver casket through a glass window) and go up some more steps from where you can see the back of the image of the saint. Then we went off to enjoy some tapas. After lunch we went to the Cathedral Museum (not bad at €6 each and €4 for the over-65's) which was full of fascinating treasures. The building of the Cathedral itself commenced in 1075 and it was completed in 1211. A lot of the original building remains although it has been added to over the centuries. It is named after St. James (the brother of John, not the brother of Jesus), who was the first apostle to be martyred, being beheaded by Herod Agrippa in 43 AD. His body was somehow miraculously transported to Spain and discovered in 814 AD, and the Cathedral has been a site of pilgrimage ever since. We discovered that there are several different Pilgrimage routes, or "Caminos", including one which you can do by boat, and as we had come by boat we felt that we qualified as Pilgrims even though we don't have the stamps! Afterwards we drove to Cape Finisterre, where the views were absolutely amazing from the headland. Interesting to get the view from the land as opposed to the view from the sea. It was still sunny but a bit of a chilly wind. Then drove back to Muros via the town of Finisterre and along the coast which was stunning. Got back at 9.30 and had a light meal.
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