It's the beginning of November and Mistress has been sporting a tea coloured moustache that she picked up while traveling through the Dismal Swamp Canal a couple of days ago. We thought this was her Hallowe'en costume (along with the leaves lying on the deck) but looks like the moustache might be on for a while longer.
We had a memorable departure from Hampton when we decided to pumpout and refuel at the nearby marina on the way out. Just as we were heading into the channel, a coast guard helicopter flew overhead and circled. We then noticed that the marina dock we were approaching was lined with folks with cameras ready. 'Hopefully you're not here because you've heard about us' we joked and they all started clapping, 'Yeah, they're here!' It was our first standing ovation while docking! It turns out we were coming into the channel just as a demonstration of a helicopter water rescue was beginning (although it had to be delayed a few minutes because there were a couple of yachts in the channel -us).
It was quite a sight to see this helicopter stationary at100 ft off the water while the rescue diver got the dummy hooked up and retrieved - got to love that type of talent. It was also somewhat scary to think about when it might be needed. It took almost 15 minutes for the helicopter to circle, drop and lift the victim to safety - that would be a long time to be in the water. The crowd of boaters gave a cheer and big waves as the coast guard flew overhead when done. We all appreciated their skills in being prepared for situations we don't like to imagine!
We continued on the short trip through the bay to Norfolk and Portsmouth and past all of the ships docked, dry docked and under construction. It was a busy place with large marinas, Norfolk Naval Station and shipyards with huge aircraft carriers, destroyers and apparently nuclear submarines. What a sight, lots of sentry boats and floats to keep everyone away, including the requisite broadcast of security, ‘This is the war ship so and so entering the harbour. Stay 500 yards away or you will be prosecuted’. These guys mean business.
We were now in much busier waters and there was a continual 'conga line' of commercial and individual vessels heading south. Thankfully we were able to find two spots to anchor in Elizabeth River, Portsmouth just beside the Tide Water Marina and near the flashing red buoy 36 that marks Mile 0 to begin the 1243 mile long ICW. We enjoyed a quiet evening anchored in 11 ft of water (and didn’t hear the bickering that Lequesteau was overhearing between two anchor mates on who was too close, who was there first etc.). We had read that this is a popular location to spend the night to get an early start on the ICW even though the holding isn't great and it can get rocky with the wakes and wind. We were glad to have our new anchor!
We were up early at 6:45 to a very cool 8c in the boat ready to begin the journey down the ICW. But when we radioed Greig and Caroline about the trip for the day we realized there was no need to leave for a couple of hours as we needed to co incide our departure with the opening lift times for the nearby bridge and lock. We'll get better at this as we go along! Time for another coffee and then finally up with the hook and off we went - followed by several other boats.
By the time we arrived at the Deep Creek Lock at the beginning of the Dismal Swamp Canal there were 9 boats locking through with one of the most incredible lockmasters ever (Lock nine in the Erie Canal could learn from this guy, maybe a remedial course is in order.) Getting through this lock took a couple of hours as he secured and kibitzed with each of the 9 boats lining the canal and was a joy to work with. At the end he brought Halloween candies to every boat and then hopped in his truck to open the lift bridge ahead, so that we could continue on our way. It's a good thing no one was in a hurry - another reminder to slow down and enjoy the journey as it is. My only regret is I didn’t think to do what Greig did and drop a beer in the lockmaster’s candy bucket.
It wasn't until mid-day that we realized how appropriate that we were traveling through the Dismal Swamp on Hallowe'en. Not only was it a unique treat to discover this area but Mistress donned a Hallowe'en costume of moustache and leaves from the many trees and tannic acid in the waters.
The Dismal Swamp Canal is steeped in history (and tea coloured). It was proposed by George Washington in the 1700s, hand dug by slaves and is the oldest operating artificial waterway in the US. Over the years it became a significant part of the Underground Railroad and moonshine production because of its remoteness and has inspired the writing of classics such as Edgar Allen Poe's 'The Raven' and Edna Ferber's 'Showboat'.
There are few spots to stay along this canal and it was a sunny, but chilly afternoon when we stopped midway to raft up with 8 other boats at the Welcome Centre near the Virginia and North Carolina state-lines. The staff was so welcoming and amazing. They handed out Hallowe’en candy and recommended where we could wait out the impending bad weather, with details of possible options for the next couple of nights. They then allowed us to use their phone to reserve a slip at Lambs Marina near Elizabeth City. We visited the nearby Visitors Centre that had a free tour of the facility to explain the Dismal Swamp history and even an old still - but unfortunately there were no samples.
It’s cool enough in the morning to see your breath before you get out of the rack and lots of condensation. There was a conga line of boats heading to catch the first opening of the nearby lock. We just got tied up in the lock as several Ford Model A and some newer Fords (1953 etc.) rolled in on a Classic Car rally. What a treat as the boaters and car owners enjoyed the sight of and chatting about each other’s toys while the lock master waited to open the water-gate...MAGIC!
Within a few hours, we tied up at Lambs Marina (after some confusion about where we would dock) with many helping hands to make sure we were secure. We were happy to be tied up safe and sound in a great protected marina while near gale force winds blew through the night.
Although we're now finished the Dismal Swamp Canal, Mistress will likely be wearing her Movember moustache for a few days longer. Anyone wishing to sponsor Mistress can send money to....:-)