Nov 18, 2014
We're in South Carolina - and the last couple of weeks seem like a blur as we try to recall some of the steps, folks and stops along the way.
Lamb's Marina just outside of Elizabeth City, NC was a great place for shelter during the overnight storm. But the next morning, the water level was 3 feet lower and we were firmly stuck in the mud. Although this was a non tidal area, the storm winds had sucked the water out of the marina basin. Once again, a reminder of the power of nature and especially a storm!
So we spent the next couple of days catching up on laundry and chores on the boat and sharing stories with the other boaters - those also travelling south and those who lived there. We hadn't planned to stay at Lamb's, especially for three nights, but it was a great stop (or stuck). It was $30 a night with free use of a loaner car, and had an amazing restaurant, friendly folks and a captain's lounge with laundry and showers. Other marinas charge $1.50 or more per ft and then add $5 to use the power at the dock. Bill, the dock master was a wonderful guy who not only loved to share stories and jokes, but also whatever he had (e.g., cap for fuel can) and wouldn't take anything for it.
Since then we've been traveling with two other boats that are being single handed - 'Airagon Strider' with Scott and 'Arden' with Nick (and Wilbur the cat). Scott is taking his boat to Florida to then be joined by his wife; Nick is beginning his dream of sailing around the world. Scott had some fuel issues so they needed to stay at Lamb's a few hours later than us on the day we finally were leaving. We planned where we'd meet up either later that day or the next, and we headed out to begin traveling down the Alligator River.
There are several bridges along this journey. Many are tall enough for us to travel under, but the smaller ones either open at certain times (eg. every hour) or when called on the radio by each boat going through. We usually hear the boats one after another politely requesting an opening and then thanking the bridge tender when through. The first bridge that day was the Alligator River Bridge. We cracked up when the boat ahead radioed the bridge tender, requested the lift, then added "I just want to say - see you later alligator." This was followed by a pause and then the reply from the bridge tender, "In a while, crocodile."
We anchored that night in the Alligator River, just off the ICW in a beautiful place with only 7 or 8 other boats and 100 yards between each of us. We enjoyed a brilliant sunset, followed by a quiet night and then a magnificent sunrise. The wake of a shrimp boat was a 06:00 rocking and rolling alarm clock - good thing we were already awake.
We traveled to Belhaven and stopped to fuel up and pump out at the first marina we passed. Why does it always have to blow 20 knots when we're docking and why are so many pump outs not working? This small marina, River Forest, was a hive of activity with a new owner of two weeks affecting repairs, renovations and dock improvements after multiple years of hurricane damage and neglect.
Once we fueled up, we carried on down the channel to meet up with Lequesteau at a free dock they had read about on Active Captain (worth downloading for information and recommendations along the way!). There weren't any amenities at these docks, so we wandered down to the main marina in town (Belhaven Waterway Marina) and asked if we could pay to use their shower. We knew there was a possibility they wouldn't let us, but after a night at anchor thought it would be worth a try. We didn't expect their abrupt response that their showers are only for paying customers - so much for southern hospitality. We continued walking until we were back at River Forest Marina and asked there if we could buy a shower. The owner immediately agreed, even apologized that the showers were under repair and refused to take any money. Our faith in southern hospitality was restored. We'll definitely stop back in here to stay at their updated facilities in the spring - and add a glowing review on Active Captain - the other marina not so much.
The other two boats, Arden and Airagon Strider finally caught up with us in Belhaven and early the next morning all 4 boats were off the dock in a conga line heading for Oriental NC. As usual we started out motoring - but finally were able to sail for a while. The quiet was deafening but wonderful (how do you spell 'aahhh!!!') until we made the turn in the channel and back to 'head to wind' motoring.
The forecast 15 kt winds with 20 kt gusts were somewhat understated and the 20-30 kt winds made the last few hours of the ride and our entrance to Oriental harbour pretty bouncy. We had planned to either anchor or stay at the town docks, but there weren't any logical or safe places left to anchor and the town docks were full when we arrived. Thankfully there were some spots available on the face wall of the harbour marina. It took many helping hands to make sure everyone had a safe landing as the wind forcefully blew each boat into the wall. Oriental was a pleasant little place, but it was a bit underwhelming especially as it is advertised as the 'sailing capital of the Carolinas.'
Our next stop was Moorehead City - and when we pulled into the marina to fuel up and arrange to stay for a night or two, Danard, the elderly owner of the marina made a point of learning our names, thanking us for the business, telling a story or two, then walking us back to the boat. More southern hospitality!
The next day was a stationary day that we used for maintenance, cleaning, laundry and provisioning. Thanks to Greig's friend, Sean who lives in Morehead City, we finally got the motor hoist we bought at the Annapolis Boat Show, thank you Garhaur. What an amazing piece of gear! It's installed and working - just needs to be fine tuned a bit and we will be golden. Scott was anchored just across from our docks and Brad and Greig took the dinghy over to help repair his depth sounder.
That day was also the Veterans Day parade in town. What a huge turnout and an amazing line up of floats, vehicles, etc. for this relatively small town. Amazing how these folks honored the members of the military that served; it was heart warming to see the support and ovations that the WW2, Korean, Vietnam and current vets got as they went by.
We had been hearing about the impending Alaska cold front with 20 degrees below normal temperatures a week or so away and were trying to put as many miles south as we could. So the next day we headed out early for Swansboro, NC. On the way, dolphins swam past the boat on several occasions - what a great sight, especially as we weren't expecting to see them in the small rivers along the ICW.
We tied up at Dudley's Marina for 0.75 a foot - it wasn't fancy but was once again, a friendly place with helpful folks and an interesting combination of boat yard, gas station and marine/fishing store (with many things you don't need but might be good to have). We got a ride in the loaner truck into the nearby town of Swansboro and were surprised to see it all decked out for Christmas on Nov 8th! We meandered around the touristy shops for a while, then stopped at an outdoor patio to have some appetizers while overlooking the waterway. On our walk back to the marina, we passed several pelicans sunning on nearby pilings. Pelicans and dolphins are becoming our other regular companions along this leg of our journey.