Alison Stocker | Photo: The northeast coast of Orpheus Island and Pelorus Island seen from our hike
Having missed seeing SV Kalliope at Dunk Island, it was starting to seem that most of our cruising friends in Australia were now either north of us or far south in Moreton Bay or Tasmania. During our evening at Haycock Island, however, we were very glad to hear that Laura and Dick on SV Maia were heading north from the Whitsundays. If all went well, we would likely meet them at Magnetic Island, which was very encouraging. There were days when I felt frustrated about having to move south during the exact calm conditions that would otherwise have allowed us to go out to the Great Barrier Reef to snorkel. So, the idea of having fun hiking companions at Magnetic Island, while we waited for the next lull in the trade-winds, was appealing.
Before we got there, however, we had a couple of days in which we could explore a new location that many people had recommended to us, Orpheus Island. So, we left Haycock Island around 9 am on Friday (27th August) which would allow us to leave the shallow southern entrance of the Hinchinbrook Channel on the flood tide just before high tide. After that, we had to motor straight into the east-southeasterly wind but it was only for about 8 nm. The wind was about 12 knots but Pelorus and Orpheus Islands protected us from the swell and the worst of the wind-waves, so it was not too bad. We arrived at Little Pioneer Bay at 2 pm to find all four public moorings occupied, so we anchored where the bottom looked flat in about 9.5 m (31 feet) of water.
We immediately launched the dinghy and donned our snorkel gear with the intention of finding the giant clams that had been cultured near the James Cook University Research Station. I was keen to get in the water while it was sunny, so we postponed going ashore to visit the Station until the next day. Identifying a place that Lynne on SV Mischief had recommended just south of the entrance to the channel for the Research Station, we tied up to a dinghy mooring. Leaning over the side of the dinghy before reaching the mooring, I had seen some very pretty coral gardens in fairly shallow water which looked like a good place to snorkel. However, once I was in the water I realized that the visibility was very poor (no more than 5 m or 16 feet), so I advised Randall that he would not enjoy it and started a fish survey. After 10 minutes, he let me know that he had seen a shark from the dinghy. Although the shark was not particularly big or threatening, I did not like knowing that I might be startled by it in the poor visibility. I had seen only a few clams and it was difficult to take photographs of fish in the murky water, so, reluctantly, I abandoned the snorkel. Despite its short duration, I manage to record 35 fish species during my survey, including several good-sized coral groupers.
A giant clam (about 50 cm or 20 inches wide) seen during my brief snorkel
On our way back to Tregoning, we tried to find the patches of giant clams that Lynne had described, but with no luck. A large red catamaran, SV Archer, had anchored behind us and as they made their way to the nearest beach in their dinghy, they stopped by to say hello to fellow Americans. Elizabeth and Seth and their three children (ages 8 to 11) were, like Randall, from California. They had been caught in Fiji by the pandemic and, after surviving category 5 severe Cyclone Yasa in December 2020, had been only too happy to undergo 14 days of hotel quarantine when allowed to enter Australia early in 2021. They seemed to be glad to see us as we were one of very few American boats they had seen in Australia.
The following morning, despite being a fairly low tide that caused us to have to wade ashore pulling the dinghy, we went to visit the James Cook University Research Station. Several cruisers had told us that the staff enjoy having visitors, so even though it was a Saturday, we thought that we would see if anyone was available. We arrived to find a group of seven adults and assorted children from Southern Cloud (the luxury schooner that was also anchored in the Bay) at the end of a tour. Not wanting to interrupt, we stood to one side and, with apologies, eavesdropped on the last part of the speech by Bec, the Station Manager. The crew member from Southern Cloud who had brought the guests ashore, had known Bec from another research station, so it seemed that she was particularly keen to talk to them about Orpheus Island.
Approaching the James Cook University Research Station
After the Southern Cloud crowd had left, I suspected that Bec would not have the time or energy to talk to us as well, but I was wrong. She was waiting for the tide to come in further before they could take one of their research vessels out, and she was a women with apparently boundless enthusiasm. We had Bec’s full attention for about 30 minutes while she showed us the outdoor facilities, and answered our many questions about the Great Barrier Reef, corals, giant clams, research programs, and Orpheus Island. She was fascinating and very welcoming, a fabulous and relaxed ambassador for the Station and University.
Bec and Alison
She gave us directions to find the giant clam beds (much closer to shore than we had looked previously). When we asked about recommended hikes on the Island, she warned us that the trail from the Station was quite arduous, but recommended the trail from the beach on the north side of our anchorage. She was so wonderful that I was very glad that I had brought with me a package of raspberry oatmeal bars which I had baked the night before. It was just a small gift of appreciation for her time but she seemed genuinely pleased by this gesture.
As we returned to Tregoning, we found the patches of densely packed giant clams that remained from a former research project. It would have been fun to have snorkeled on them if the water clarity and depth had been better, but they were still impressive from dinghy. When smaller, the clams had been cultured at much higher densities than would naturally occur. As a result, many of them had died but the empty shells still crowded the living clams. Bec mentioned that they were hoping to get a grant to remove the dead shells to provide the surviving clams with more room. In the breezy conditions, my photograph of the clams from the dinghy was not very good, but a better idea can be gained from the “Classroom on the Reef” video at: https://www.jcu.edu.au/orpheus-island
The densely packed giant clams seen from the side of our dinghy, only the few with white rims to the shells are alive
The water visibility as still not very good, so we decided to go for hike after lunch, rather than trying to snorkel again. Leaving the dinghy on the beach at the north end of Little Pioneer Bay, we followed a narrow trail that started beside the National Park Campground’s picnic table. Winding through the woods and then up to the top of the ocean-side ridge, the path was well-marked by many pieces of pink flagging tape and a few stone cairns. We did not see or hear many birds in woods, other than getting a good sighting of what I was sure was a satin flycatcher. It was a male with dark blue and white plumage but I did not have time to catch a photograph of it before it flew. This was a pity because when Randall entered it on his e-bird survey, it was questioned whether we were sure that this sighting was not a leaden flycatcher which is much more common in this area. Despite the leaden flycatcher typically being greyer than the satin, apparently these species are easily and frequently confused. Without a photo to submit in support of our claim, or to allow us to evaluate other distinguishing characteristics, Randall, sadly, had to remove this observation from our meagre list.
Randall enjoying the view south across Orpheus Island, with the ocean on the left and the boats (including Tregoning and Southern Cloud) in Little Pioneer Bay on the right
Even if the bird-life was rather subdued on our hike, the scenery definitely did not disappoint. As we reached the top of the ridge, we had magnificent views both to the west over the boats in Little Pioneer Bay, and to the east on “The Wild Side” (Bec’s term for the ocean side). The water was much clearer on the ocean side so we could easily see the rocks and reef just off the shoreline. It was a breathtaking vista that made the hike well-worthwhile, and it whetted our appetite for the various hikes at our next destination, Magnetic Island.
Looking south along “The Wild Side" of Orpheus Island